A Victorian 15 karat gold brooch with moonstones, diamonds and rubies. The coupled heart-shaped moonstones are each framed by a bright ring of alternating round-cut diamonds and rubies, and topped with a flowing diamond and ruby ribbon tied in a bow. The brooch''s 23 old mine-cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and the 25 old European-cut rubies have an approximate total weight of 1.07 carats.
A French 18 karat gold brooch with turquoise, diamonds and rubies by Janca. The semicircular brooch radiates elegantly outward in a fan motif. Striations of textured gold and openwork are dotted with 12 rubies of approximate total weight of 1.2 carats and 7 diamonds of approximate total weight of .6 carat, while 31 turquoise cabochons decorate the base.
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
An Art Deco plaque platinum brooch with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds around a central window with a rock crystal bottom on which pheasant and vegetal forms stand out as glycine. The plant forms and the bird are made with emeralds, rubies yellow and blue sapphires and calibrated rubies. These are based on a pavé of diamonds, with the window framed in an oval of diamonds with chatons and a fan at the bottom. The sides of the brooch are made with rubies, emerald and faceted onyx sapphires and set in cells, each one of them in a unique way, simulating a stained glass window. Vegetal forms of diamonds are applied on it. Approximate total weight of diamonds: 4.80 carats. Total approximate weight of colored stones: 4.00 carats.
An American Art Deco platinum and enamel watch/brooch with diamonds, rubies and emeralds by Tiffany & Co. The watch/brooch has 215 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.65 carats, and 14 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, 20 square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .90 carat, 6 cabochon rubies and 1 carved bead ruby with an approximate total weight of .52 carat and 11 cabochon and calibre-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of .33 carat. "The style for decorative arts of the 1920''s was streamlined; form was reduced to basic geometry and the color palette was made strong and bold as opposed to the delicate pastels that were fashionable in the decades before the war. This trend became solidly established at the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, Industriels et Modernes, where visitors were electrified by the explosion of contrasting primary colors, geometric pattern and stylized natural subjects that burst on the scene," Falino and Markowitz. Similar pictured and discussed in American Luxury Jewels from the House of Tiffany, by Falino and Markowitz, editors, Antique Collectors'' Club, 2009, page 144, Plate 91. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Camellia" brooch has 113 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 40 round & oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 22.00 carats. The sapphires are most likely of Burma origin. "At the same time as the Indian influence a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips (and brooches), leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds." Evelyne Possémé in the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition catalogues. Pictured with rubies and diamonds as earrings in Van Cleef & Arpels L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.
An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with rubies, diamonds and pearls. The fetching sporting brooch features two tennis rackets, cleverly executed in both platinum and gold for various parts of their hardware, and studded with diamonds and rubies on their respective handles. The brooch comes with two delicate pearls that serve as the tennis balls these rackets would naturally seek. The rose cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .12 carat and the calibre-cut rubies have the approximate total weight of .20 carat.
A French Modernist 18 karat grey gold dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
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