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Art Deco Platinum, Diamond, and Enamel Jabot Pin

A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and enamel jabot pin designed in a floral motif with flowers at each end, set with 100 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats, and black enamel forming the two flowers. This type of brooch, usually long and vertically shaped, consists of a single central pin with two decorative ornaments at either end. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable, allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment. When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric. In the 1920''s and 1930''s, Cartier was famed for its jeweled jabots, which it called cliquet pins or brooches (named for the "click" made when the detachable ornament is snapped on to the pin). Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.

Art Deco Platinum, Diamond, and Enamel Jabot Pin

Mauboussin Late Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.

Mauboussin Late Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

Ostertag Paris Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Double Clip Brooch

A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day. During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities. Ostert ... ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940. His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.

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Ostertag Paris Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Double Clip Brooch

Platinum and Aquamarine Late Art Deco Brooch by Cartier

A French late Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds and aquamarine by Cartier Paris. The brooch has 80 round, square and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.90 carats, centering on a hexangular aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 35.20 carats.

Platinum and Aquamarine Late Art Deco Brooch by Cartier

A Pair of Multi-Gemstone Brooches by Rene Boivin

A set of two of French Art Deco 18 karat gold "lilac-leaf" clip brooches,the larger set with oval-cut green tourmalines, yellow heliodor beryls, yellow-gray beryls and aquamarines, highlighted by a single-cut diamond stem set in platinum, the second set with circular and oval-cut pink tourmalines, pale amethysts, and green tourmalines, both with medium-relief naturalistic modeling, by René Boivin. Executed under the leadership of famed Boivin designer Juliette Moutard, these spectacular pieces are as significant in the history of high jewelry as they are beautiful. These elegant brooches demonstrate the height of Moutard''s particular style: the refined, geometrically-rendered organic shape of the lilac leaf, the sensitive and masterful employment of color gradation, and the interplay of complementary shapes are all hallmarks of Moutard''s work for Boivin. The brooches have oval-cut tourmalines, green and yellow beryl, which together have and approximate total weight of 42.25 carats; aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats; and 30 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat. With authenticity report from expert Francoise Cailles. Boivin''s work is a remarkable exception to many of the presiding trends of the 1930s. For one, the house eschewed the stark, monotonous, and highly geometric Art Deco stye. While other firms continued ... to churn out architecturally clean designs in diamond and platinum, Boivin maintained their commitment to celebrating color and the organic forms of the natural world. Also notable, and unusual for the time, is that Boivin was an all-female led firm. After the premature death of René Boivin in 1917, the firm would be led until its dissolution by his widow, Jeanne Boivin, and a host of brilliant female designers, among them Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin,

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A Pair of Multi-Gemstone Brooches by Rene Boivin

Art Nouveau Necklace with Opal Scarab by Antoine Bricteux

A French Egyptian Revival 18 karat gold pendant necklace with boulder opal, diamond, freshwater pearl and enamel by Antoine Bricteux, Paris. Designed as a winged scarab carved in boulder opal, measuring 11.89 mm by 4.06 mm, within a surround of white en plein and indigo plique-a-jour enamel wings, with 21 old mine-cut diamond highlights, approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and a freshwater pearl drop measuring approximately 5.50 mm, suspended from oval and rectangular trace link chain, convertible to a brooch, with original fitted box. Note: Exquisitely modeled and finished, this Egyptian Revival winged scarab necklace by Maison Bricteux, Paris, exemplifies the total freedom of imagination that characterized the Art Nouveau period. Centering a scarab carved from a boulder opal still in its seam of ironstone, within a surround of translucent plique-a-jour enamel feathers, the jewel demonstrates Art Nouveau''s restless exploration of unusual techniques and materials. The jeweler Antoine Bricteux ran a small boutique firm in the neighborhood of the Palais Royale, a center of the artistic luxury trade in Paris. Mention of his work appears in Henri Vever''s history of French jewelry, where Maison Bricteux is described as a "distinguished firm" which created "charming jewelry of modern inspiration." Bricteux collaborated with the designer G. Landois -along with the great firm ... of Louis Aucoc -until Landois'' sudden death. Egyptian motifs such as the scarab have appeared prominently in European art since the Renaissance. Worn over the millennia in many societies as a favorite amulet, the scarab is identified with purity of heart. During the Art Nouveau period, it was a highly popular design motif along with winged women, who represented the imaginative liberty of the age.

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Art Nouveau Necklace with Opal Scarab by Antoine Bricteux

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold and Platinum Pair of Brooches

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooches with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. Each ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat which are bezel-set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. With signed Cartier box. Similar pictured in Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, page 44-45.

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold and Platinum Pair of Brooches

Blue Calcedony, Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald Brooch/Necklace by Suzanne Belperron

A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.

Blue Calcedony, Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald Brooch/Necklace by Suzanne Belperron