A Victorian silver-top 18 karat gold, diamond, emerald, ruby and pearl brooch, featuring a depiction of the penultimate scene from the fable "Jack and the Beanstalk" in which Jack lures the giant by stealing the mermaid''s harp. A baroque pearl forms the tail of a sculpted 18-karat gold mermaid decorating the base of a lyre outlined with old mine-cut diamonds. The strings of the lyre are accented with emeralds, rubies, diamonds and a sapphire weighing approximately 1.75, .30, .30 and .05 carats respectively.
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.
A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ''Two Feathers'' brooch has 41 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.35 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.This brooch was first introduced in 1954 and has become an iconic piece for Van Cleef & Arpels. Similar pictured in Set in Style The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, with contributions by Suzy Menkes (and) Ruth Peltason, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 221 (Similar). The pictured ''Two Feathers'' brooch is made in platinum, Mystery-set sapphires and diamonds,
An Antique 18 karat gold butterfly brooch with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The dimensional butterfly brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.00 carat. The brooch has an additional 82 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The brooch is further detailed with 7 bezel-set emeralds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, 7 bezel-set rubies with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, and 2 bezel-set sapphires with an approximate total weight of .20 carat. The brooch has ruby-set knife-wire antennae.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat and platinum gold ''Hawaii'' brooch with diamonds, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 15 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats, 10 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and 36 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. This stylized spray of blossoms and leaves is part of Van Cleef''s celebrated "Hawaii" series, designed as "naive, loose bunches of flowers" meant to capture the post-war spirit of liberation and rejuvenation.With Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity stating: "According to a visual appraisal and to the Van Cleef & Arpels Archives, the item illustrated and described below bearing the engraved numbers NY22818.2...the item illustrated and described has been identified as a Van Cleef & Arpels creation." "A ''Hawaii'' clip set with round diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Mounted in platinum, yellow gold and white gold. 1954."
A Swiss Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished gold brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Gübelin. The flower brooch has 13 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.08 carats, and 35 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. The brooch is designed in a dimensional flower motif.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds by Cartier Paris. The brooch has pavé round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, a cabochon sapphire with an approximate weight of 4.70 carats, 44 cabochon sapphires with an approximate total weight of .88 carat, and 2 cabochon emerald eyes. Signed Cartier box. "In 1914 Louis Cartier commissioned French painter George Barbier to draw a lady with jewels and a panther. The artwork was later used in advertising, and Cartier was inextricably linked with the symbol of this animal. Louis Cartier was the pioneer in taming the legendary creature and his associate Jeanne Toussaint went on to make magnificent use of the icon. The panther has since inspired timeless and elegant collections of jewelry and timepieces that show the multiple facets of the animal that can be at times bold, regal or sensual." -- Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, p. 72
An Art Deco plaque platinum brooch with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds around a central window with a rock crystal bottom on which pheasant and vegetal forms stand out as glycine. The plant forms and the bird are made with emeralds, rubies yellow and blue sapphires and calibrated rubies. These are based on a pavé of diamonds, with the window framed in an oval of diamonds with chatons and a fan at the bottom. The sides of the brooch are made with rubies, emerald and faceted onyx sapphires and set in cells, each one of them in a unique way, simulating a stained glass window. Vegetal forms of diamonds are applied on it. Approximate total weight of diamonds: 4.80 carats. Total approximate weight of colored stones: 4.00 carats.
An American Retro 14 karat gold brooch with peridots, pink sapphires and amethyst by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 20 mixed cuts peridots with an approximate total weight of 8.00 carats, a 6 mixed cuts pink sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats, a cabochon amethyst with an approximate total weight of .50 carats. The brooch is designed in a highly stylized Retro flower motif. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, the Vendome Press, 2007, page 221, Plate 316.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Camellia" brooch has 113 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 40 round & oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 22.00 carats. The sapphires are most likely of Burma origin. "At the same time as the Indian influence a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips (and brooches), leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds." Evelyne Possémé in the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition catalogues. Pictured with rubies and diamonds as earrings in Van Cleef & Arpels L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Sombrero" brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Schlumberger for Tiffany and Co. The brooch has round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.95 carats, and round- and oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 12.00 carats. Made in France, with French assay and maker''s marks
A French 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The sweeping brooch features 56 stunning F/G color and VVS/VS clarity diamonds graduating from .02 carat to .60 carat, with an approximate total weight of 7.75 carats. The piece also features 30 fantastically matched rubies approximate total weight of 3.10 carats, 24 clean emeralds approximate total weight 2.25 carats, and 9 blue sapphires, with the approximate total weight .85 carat. All framed by delicate twisted gold work.
A convertible French 18 karat gold clip brooch with calibre-cut sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch, convertible into a set of three, is highlighted by channel-set lines of 22 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats. In this set of three-in-one convertible clips, Van Cleef & Arpels captures the spirit of the 1940s - curvaceous, streamlined, and intriguingly asymmetrical. The dynamic clips with their reverse curves, bound by lines of angular sapphires, are a jewelry echo of the avant garde sculpture of the period. A similar set of brooches, known as the "Joined Wave", is pictured in Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, p. 62, and was shown at the eponymous exhibition at the Smithsonian''s Cooper Hewitt in New York, in 2011.
A French 18 karat gold and sapphire "Feuille" clip brooch, by René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard. The flexible leaf form set with 31 oval and cushion-cut sapphires, further enhanced by 32 circular-cut sapphires, approximate total weight 124.00 carats. In the 1930s, the creative women at the House of Boivin turned to naturalistic themes, among them flowers and leaves, just as most mainstream jewelers were abandoning such motifs. So often the source of inspiration for her young designers, Madame Boivin brought back armfuls of leaves from her long walks in the forest, and encouraged Juliette to introduce them into her jewelry designs. Typical of Moutard''s eye for color, the sapphires subtly shift in hue and tone, ranging from pale violet and indigo to cornflower blue. Moutard selected and positioned them to reflect the multiple variegations of a natural creation. The sapphire leaf, articulated to move luxuriously, drapes from similarly-toned circular-cut sapphire and gold veins. With certificate of authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, dated 2 May 2017, stating that the brooch is the work of the House of René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard.
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