An Antique 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with demantoid garnets, diamonds and ruby. The brooch has 38 demantoid garnets with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, 34 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, and a ruby eye. The 3 dimensional grasshopper brooch is positioned in a perched position.
A Victorian silver-top 18 karat gold, diamond, emerald, ruby and pearl brooch, featuring a depiction of the penultimate scene from the fable "Jack and the Beanstalk" in which Jack lures the giant by stealing the mermaid''s harp. A baroque pearl forms the tail of a sculpted 18-karat gold mermaid decorating the base of a lyre outlined with old mine-cut diamonds. The strings of the lyre are accented with emeralds, rubies, diamonds and a sapphire weighing approximately .30, .30, 1.75, and .05 carats respectively.
An Art Deco platinum and gold brooch with diamonds, ruby, emerald and lapis lazuli by Kohn. The brooch has 38 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, with ruby and emerald accents. The base of the jardiniere is formed of a single piece of lapis lazuli banded with red and black enamel. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with ruby and diamonds. The brooch has 1 cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of .02 carat, and 5 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .35 carat. The brooch is designed as a dimensional bird of paradise perched on a branch.
An Antique 18 karat gold butterfly brooch with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The dimensional butterfly brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.00 carat. The brooch has an additional 82 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The brooch is further detailed with 7 bezel-set emeralds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, 7 bezel-set rubies with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, and 2 bezel-set sapphires with an approximate total weight of .20 carat. The brooch has ruby-set knife-wire antennae.
A French Art Deco platinum and enamel brooch with diamonds and rubies. The brooch has 306 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.75 carats, and 2 cabochon ruby accents. This dimensional brooch representing a dove, the symbol of peace and love, is of special significance, as it was produced as France and the European continent were heading towards war.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat and platinum gold ''Hawaii'' brooch with diamonds, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 15 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats, 10 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and 36 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. This stylized spray of blossoms and leaves is part of Van Cleef''s celebrated "Hawaii" series, designed as "naive, loose bunches of flowers" meant to capture the post-war spirit of liberation and rejuvenation.With Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity stating: "According to a visual appraisal and to the Van Cleef & Arpels Archives, the item illustrated and described below bearing the engraved numbers NY22818.2...the item illustrated and described has been identified as a Van Cleef & Arpels creation." "A ''Hawaii'' clip set with round diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Mounted in platinum, yellow gold and white gold. 1954."
An Art Deco platinum bar brooch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier. The brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond that weighs just under 1.00 carat, 60 old European-cut diamonds that weigh approximately 2.80 carats. and 4 rectangular-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .72 carat.
A Victorian 15 karat gold brooch with moonstones, diamonds and rubies. The coupled heart-shaped moonstones are each framed by a bright ring of alternating round-cut diamonds and rubies, and topped with a flowing diamond and ruby ribbon tied in a bow. The brooch''s 23 old mine-cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and the 25 old European-cut rubies have an approximate total weight of 1.07 carats.
An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold sweet pea brooch in pink and green shaded enamel. On the open petal of the charming pink bloom is a silver-topped gold insect studded with 14 rose-cut diamonds weighing .15 carat and 2 cabochon ruby eyes that weigh .04 carat. With fitted box.
A French 18 karat gold brooch with turquoise, diamonds and rubies by Janca. The semicircular brooch radiates elegantly outward in a fan motif. Striations of textured gold and openwork are dotted with 12 rubies of approximate total weight of 1.2 carats and 7 diamonds of approximate total weight of .6 carat, while 31 turquoise cabochons decorate the base.
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
An Art Deco plaque platinum brooch with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds around a central window with a rock crystal bottom on which pheasant and vegetal forms stand out as glycine. The plant forms and the bird are made with emeralds, rubies yellow and blue sapphires and calibrated rubies. These are based on a pavé of diamonds, with the window framed in an oval of diamonds with chatons and a fan at the bottom. The sides of the brooch are made with rubies, emerald and faceted onyx sapphires and set in cells, each one of them in a unique way, simulating a stained glass window. Vegetal forms of diamonds are applied on it. Approximate total weight of diamonds: 4.80 carats. Total approximate weight of colored stones: 4.00 carats.
An American Art Deco platinum and enamel watch/brooch with diamonds, rubies and emeralds by Tiffany & Co. The watch/brooch has 215 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.65 carats, and 14 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, 20 square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .90 carat, 6 cabochon rubies and 1 carved bead ruby with an approximate total weight of .52 carat and 11 cabochon and calibre-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of .33 carat. "The style for decorative arts of the 1920''s was streamlined; form was reduced to basic geometry and the color palette was made strong and bold as opposed to the delicate pastels that were fashionable in the decades before the war. This trend became solidly established at the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, Industriels et Modernes, where visitors were electrified by the explosion of contrasting primary colors, geometric pattern and stylized natural subjects that burst on the scene," Falino and Markowitz. Similar pictured and discussed in American Luxury Jewels from the House of Tiffany, by Falino and Markowitz, editors, Antique Collectors'' Club, 2009, page 144, Plate 91. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Camellia" brooch has 113 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 40 round & oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 22.00 carats. The sapphires are most likely of Burma origin. "At the same time as the Indian influence a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips (and brooches), leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds." Evelyne Possémé in the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition catalogues. Pictured with rubies and diamonds as earrings in Van Cleef & Arpels L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.
An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with rubies, diamonds and pearls. The fetching sporting brooch features two tennis rackets, cleverly executed in both platinum and gold for various parts of their hardware, and studded with diamonds and rubies on their respective handles. The brooch comes with two delicate pearls that serve as the tennis balls these rackets would naturally seek. The rose cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .12 carat and the calibre-cut rubies have the approximate total weight of .20 carat.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with rubies and diamonds by Boucher for Tiffany & Co. The brooch has 27 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.45 carats, and 9 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .85 carats. The brooch is designed in a modified shell form.
A French 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The sweeping brooch features 56 stunning F/G color and VVS/VS clarity diamonds graduating from .02 carat to .60 carat, with an approximate total weight of 7.75 carats. The piece also features 30 fantastically matched rubies approximate total weight of 3.10 carats, 24 clean emeralds approximate total weight 2.25 carats, and 9 blue sapphires, with the approximate total weight .85 carat. All framed by delicate twisted gold work.
An American modern safety pin brooch in 14 and 18 karat bi-color gold with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. The 14 karat bi-color gold safety pin, suspending fourteen 18 karat gold gem-set and diamond hearts, has 36 round brilliant-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 2.16 carats, as well as 9 round-cut emeralds with the approximate total weight of .48 carat and 9 round-cut rubies with the approximate total weight of .71 carat. This whimsical brooch with its freely dangling line of gemmy hearts represents a charming tradition of wearing safety pins to symbolize love, protection and unity.
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