A French Retro 18-karat yellow and pink gold bracelet composed of 6 three-dimensional links in a "tank track" motif. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.
Signed: Unidentified Maker’s and French control marks
A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with emeralds and diamonds attributed to Rubel Frères. The bracelet has 64 square-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 8.30 carats, and 32 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carat. The flexible bracelet is designed in a step motif.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum necklace with sapphires and diamonds. The center of the necklace has 4 graduated festooned strands of 162 round and oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 25.00 carats that form the articulated swag. The blue sapphires are most likely from Ceylon. The top strand and side decoration have 153 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.00 carats, and 104 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 14.40 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. French control mark for platinum. The motifs of 1950''s jewelry design may appear similar to pieces produced in the ''40''s, but they were executed in an entirely different way. Retro jewelry had a solid, heavy and highly polished look whereas 1950''s jewelry was open, airy and textural, although still solid and "important" in appearance. There was beautiful movement and a depth displayed in the execution of design in this period, as this swag designed necklace exemplifies.
Dimensions: 14-1/2" length, with later 2" extension x 1-5/8" width at the center of the draping.
An important French Retro, 18-karat rose gold bangle bracelet with diamonds, rubies, and rose quartz, by Verger Frères. The hinged bangle bracelet is designed with terminals of rose quartz sphere clusters, each set with circular-cut rubies, approximate total weight 1.65 carats, flanked by old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats, further highlighted by calibré-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1 carat. The Verger workshop was a successful, behind-the-scenes force creating jewels for Boucheron, Cartier, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Unlike those of many manufacturing jewelers, who merely produced work to order, Verger''s own original designs were particularly valued and sought after by these great Parisian Maison. Verger are known for their magnificent clocks featuring strongly defined shapes, stylized lines and global inspiration. For the Haute Joaillerie he created elaborate fancies of form and color contrast, as we see here in this important rose gold bracelet.
A Retro platinum and blue sapphire dress set consisting of a pair of double-sided cuff links with 3 matching dress studs. There are 72 square-cut blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats. With box.
A European Retro 14 karat gold "tubogas" necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 18 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.08 carats. The diamond-set center section is mounted between two twisted screw-shaped capitals.
Signed: European country control mark 14kt gold
Dimensions: 14-1/4" interior length x 1" - 1/4" width
A French Retro 18 karat gold bracelet. The 8 link bracelet is composed of geometric pink and yellow gold graphic dimensional sections. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Cartier. The polished yellow gold ring has 35 platinum set round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.50 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. Innovative design is a Cartier trademark. This ring has a diamond step motif on one side and a gold fan motif on the other, creating an illusion of two entirely different rings depending upon the perspective of the viewer. With signed Cartier box.
A Retro 18 karat rose and yellow gold bracelet. The exceptionally wide flexible bracelet is composed of alternating rose and yellow cone lines. The polished gold lines form the unique, very wide seven row Retro period pattern.
Signed: Marked "18k, 0.750", hand engraved: "Nena".
A pair of Retro platinum earrings with sapphires and diamonds. The earrings have 10 oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 3.20 carats, and 36 square-cut and round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat. The earrings are in a floral motif with diamond leaf details.
A French Retro 18 karat pink gold- and platinum-covered watch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier Paris. The cover of the watch has 14 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carat, and 3 calibre-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carat. The watch has a flexible box-link bracelet. The movement is by Jaeger Le Coultre. With signed Cartier box.
A Retro 18 karat polished gold necklace. This unique necklace is designed in a strong geometric link motif. This ''tank track'' necklace is an exceptionally rare expression of this jewelry style. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link jewelry popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so extensively during the war.
A French Retro 18 karat yellow gold and platinum ring with diamonds and rubies by Cartier. The ring has 14 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carats, and 3 rectangular-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carats.
A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum necklace with diamonds and sapphires. The necklace has 74 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, and 66 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats. The necklace is designed with stylized twisted gold leaves interspersed with a row of diamonds alternating with a row of sapphires. The front of the necklace is suspended by two woven gold chains with a twisted leaf motif clasp.
Signed: “Made in France” with French control marks
A European Retro 18 karat gold ring with diamonds. The ring has 15 round old European-cut and old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.85 carats. The polished yellow gold ring is designed in a modified buckle motif.
Signed: French importation assay mark (partial).
Dimensions: Ring size 6-1/2; this ring can be sized.
A French Retro 18 karat polished gold bracelet. The bracelet is composed of 6 openwork links and 6 closed polished yellow gold links. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
A Retro platinum ring with emeralds and diamonds. The ring has 9 emeralds with an approximate total weight of 4.40 carats, 4 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .30 carat, and 8 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats. The ring is designed in a stylized buckle motif.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold watch bracelet with diamonds by Omega. The polished gold watch bracelet is composed of 10 flexible ridged bombé sections. The cover of the watch has a center flower medallion with 8 round-cut diamonds weighing approximately .45 carat total weight.
An American Retro 14 karat gold brooch with peridots, pink sapphires and amethyst by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 20 mixed cuts peridots with an approximate total weight of 8.00 carats, a 6 mixed cuts pink sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats, a cabochon amethyst with an approximate total weight of .50 carats. The brooch is designed in a highly stylized Retro flower motif. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, the Vendome Press, 2007, page 221, Plate 316.
A French Retro 18-karat gold bracelet with blue sapphires and diamonds by Boucheron. The flexible link bracelet has 72 cabochon blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.20 carats, and old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats. The bracelet is composed of 4 dimensional half moons set with cabochon sapphires and diamonds from a double row of oval and rectangular "seed" links.
A Retro 18 karat gold ring with sapphires. The bombé ring has 5 old European-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of .80 carat. The sapphires are gypsy-set in the centers of the 5 convex tapered scallops.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
An 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond Retro bangle bracelet by Cartier. The central motif of foliate design, surrounds a European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.50 carats. It can be worn as a brooch or hinged on the bracelet. Some of the petals are pavé-set with diamonds while others are highlighted by baguette diamonds. Mounted in 18 karat yellow gold. The brooch signed Cartier London, J.C. and numbered 9874, the bangle signed J.C. and numbered 9874. The piece has 200 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 19.20 carats; the center diamond being 2.50 carats in approximate total weight. A similar bracelet is pictured in "Amazing Cartier" by Nadine Coleno, page 107.
A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond clip brooch, Monture Cartier. The brooch is designed as a stylized ropetwist floral spray with diamond blossoms and gold leaves, highlighted by 21 Old European-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, approximate total weight 5.00 carats, suspending a ropetwist tassel with acorn pendant. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H/I color grade. Mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum. The clip brooch was manufactured by the Cartier workshop Dubois, who produced some of the most remarkable pieces of "tutti fruitI" and other Indian inspired jewelry for the firm.
A 1940''s gold and diamond tank bracelet. Composed of a series of panel links, decorated with a course of circular-cut diamonds, mounted in 18 karat rose and white gold. The bracelet has 80 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.40 carats.
An Argentinian Retro 18 karat rose gold bracelet. The highly polished rose gold piece of substantial weight follows a single, elegant design of flattened vertically-oriented rectangular links, adjoined by gabled rectangular sub-links. Argentina K18. 108.8 grams.
A pair of French Retro 18 karat gold bouquet earrings with diamonds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each designed as a cluster of sapphire blossoms centering diamond pistils amidst leaves and foliage, set with 10 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat and 50 round brilliant-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats.
A French Retro 18 karat yellow gold bracelet by Boucheron. The heavy bracelet is made of 10 polished yellow gold palmettes links.Pictured as a necklace in Boucheron La Capture de L''eclat, by Patrick Wald Lasowski, Anne-Marie Clais, Edition Cercle D''Art, 2005, page , Plate 159.
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