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American Safety Pin Brooch

An American modern safety pin brooch in 14 and 18 karat bi-color gold with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. The 14 karat bi-color gold safety pin, suspending fourteen 18 karat gold gem-set and diamond hearts, has 36 round brilliant-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 2.16 carats, as well as 9 emeralds and 9 rubies. This whimsical brooch with its freely dangling line of gemmy hearts represents a charming tradition of wearing safety pins to symbolize love, protection and unity.

American Safety Pin Brooch

Henry Dunay Multi-Gemstone Brooch

An American Contemporary 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, emeralds, amethysts, turquoise and coral by Henry Dunay. The piece is a beautiful and playful array of cabochon amethyst, turquoise and coral set in twisted gold bezels, accented with raised, gold-framed diamonds and organized in an arresting organic lozenge shape. The brooch has 34 white round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats, 10 cabochon emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 16 cabochon amethysts, 12 cabochon turquoise, 4 cabochon coral. Pendant attachment on back.

Henry Dunay Multi-Gemstone Brooch

American Gold Necklace with diamonds by Henry Dunay

An American early 21st-Century 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds by Henry Dunay. The necklace is comprised of yellow gold links textured in an elegant swirling pattern. The links, which are each nearly an inch in width, are studded with 247 round-cut F/G color, VS clarity diamonds with an approximate total weight of 7.8 carats.

American Gold Necklace with diamonds by Henry Dunay

Antique Renaissance Revival Amethyst, Diamond, Natural Pearl, Gold and Enamel Necklace

An English Antique 15 karat gold necklace with amethyst, diamond and pearl. The necklace has an oval cut amethyst approximately 9.50 carats, 30 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .30 carats, and 24 natural pearls approximately 2mm. With enamel plaques in a Renaissance Revival motif.

Antique Renaissance Revival Amethyst, Diamond, Natural Pearl, Gold and Enamel Necklace

Antique Diamond Silver Top and Gold Cluster Necklace

An Antique silver-top 15 karat gold necklace, composed of 5 openwork flower motif clusters. The clusters are connected by diamond set swag links. Both clusters and links are set with old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 16.80 carats.

Antique Diamond  Silver Top and Gold Cluster Necklace

Antique Diamond, Pearl and Gold Locket Necklace

An English antique 18 karat gold pendant locket with pearls and diamonds. The pendant locket has 1 old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .18 carat which is surrounded by a seed pearl-set garland. The locket is suspended from an antique 18 karat chain and has a split opening with two interior compartments.

Antique Diamond, Pearl and Gold Locket Necklace

Antique Diamond Gold and Silver Top Pendeloque Earrings

A pair of antique silver-top/18 karat gold rhodium plated earrings with diamonds. The earrings have 96 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.70 carats, (including large diamonds, approximate weight .75 carat each), H/I/J color, SI clarity. In the late 19th century, a revival of Georgian and French 18th-Century design took place. These pendeloque ear pendants exemplify this revival, as the majority of ear pendants of this age were set entirely with diamonds or a combination of diamonds and pearls. Similar examples of these earrings are illustrated in Earrings, by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Thames & Hudson, 1990, pgs. 71-76.

Antique Diamond Gold and Silver Top Pendeloque Earrings

Antique Diamond, Amber Silver and Gold Borzoi Brooch

An Antique 15 karat gold and silver top diamond brooch. The body of the Borzoi has 230 pavé rose and Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. The markings are created of intricately carved shades of amber.

Antique Diamond, Amber Silver and Gold Borzoi Brooch

Antique Moonstone and Diamond Dress Set

An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum dress set with moonstones and diamonds. The set has 7 cabochon moonstones with an approximate total weight of 4.10 carats and 86 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat. The classically-designed cluster cuff links are double-sided with clasped chain connections. The 3 cluster dress studs have gold folding wing backs. Similar pictured in Cuff Links, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Harry N. Abrams, 1991, page 50 (similar).

Antique Moonstone and Diamond Dress Set

Antique Diamond, Gold and Silver Maltese Cross Brooch

An English Antique 15 karat gold and oxidized silver Maltese cross brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 130 old European-cut and old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 18.00 carats including the center old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.25 carats. Fold down bale. Antique box. The Maltese cross, in Italy also known as the Amalfi cross, is the cross symbol associated with the Knights Hospitaller (the Knights of Malta) and, by extension, with the island of Malta. The cross is eight-pointed and has the form of four "V"-shaped elements, each joining the others at its vertex, leaving the other two tips spread outward symmetrically. Its design is based on crosses used since the First Crusade. The 15th Century Crusaders adopted the Cross of Malta as their insignia because its eight points represented the eight Beatitudes prescribed in the Sermon on the Mount. Those, in effect, declare (1) blessed are the poor in spirit, (2) the meek, (3) the pure, (4) the merciful, and (5) the peacemakers; (6) blessed are they that mourn, and (7) seek righteousness, and (8) blessed are they who are persecuted for righteousness sake. The Cross of Malta had a religious origin but the Knights of St. John also made it their battle standard for the liberation of all men, women and children who suffered oppression. The ideals for which the original Crusaders fought parallel the principles of democracy today, freedom and justice.

Antique Diamond, Gold and Silver Maltese Cross Brooch

Antique Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings

A pair of Antique 18 kt gold and oxidized silver earrings with diamonds and pearls. The earrings have 22 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.90 carats, K/L color, SI clarity, and 2 natural saltwater pearls measuring 11.91 x 11.27 x 9.23 mm; 11.90 x 11.05 x 8.54 mm. Gemological Institute of America Pearl Report #2165053962 stating "Natural Saltwater''. The earrings are composed in a classic cluster motif. The lever backs are newer.

Antique Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings

Antique Demantoid Garnet, Diamond, Gold and Platinum Grasshopper Brooch

An Antique 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with demantoid garnets, diamonds and ruby. The brooch has 38 demantoid garnets with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, 34 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, and a ruby eye. The 3 dimensional grasshopper brooch is positioned in a perched position.

Antique Demantoid Garnet, Diamond, Gold and Platinum Grasshopper Brooch

Antique English Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring

An Antique English 18 karat gold and oxidized silver ring with ruby and diamonds. The ring has an oval ruby with an approximate weight of 2.13 carats, and 10 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The ring is composed in a classic English Raj cluster motif with bezel-set ruby and floral bezel-set diamonds. The shoulders of the ring are composed in an open work lyre motif. SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute Report #76870 stating no heat indications and of Burma origin, dated 29 September 2014.

Antique English Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring

Antique English Diamond and Gold 5-Stone Ring

An Antique English 18 karat gold ring with diamonds. The ring has 5 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.30 carats, K-L color, SI clarity. The diamond center is approximately 1.60 carats, then descending diamonds each weighing approximately 1.25, 1.15, .65 and .65 respectively. The diamonds are K/L color, SI clarity. The shoulders of the ring are carved with a flame motif which swirls into the deeply carved open work swirl gallery.

Antique English Diamond and Gold 5-Stone Ring

Edwardian Diamond, Seed Pearl and Gold Heart Pendant/Brooch

An English Edwardian 15 karat gold pendant/brooch with diamond and seed pearls. The pendant/brooch has a bezel-set old mine-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.25 carats, and prong-set natural seed pearls. The heart-shape pendant/brooch has a fold-down bale and pendant watch fitting. "The heart-shaped jewel...emblem(s) of sacred and profane love..." Geoffrey C. Munn. Discussed in The Triumph of Love Jewelry 1530-1930, by Geoffrey C. Munn, Thames and Hudson, London, 1993.

Edwardian Diamond, Seed Pearl and Gold Heart Pendant/Brooch

Antique English Emerald and Diamond Cluster Necklace

An English Antique 15 karat gold and silver necklace with fourteen emerald and diamond clusters. The necklace has 14 antique-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 20.50 carats, including the center emerald with an approximate weight of 2.50 carats. The emeralds are surrounded by 140 old mine-cut diamonds, including diamond spacers joining the clusters with an approximate total weight of 24.00 carats. With signed, fitted antique box.

Antique English Emerald and Diamond Cluster Necklace

Antique English Diamond Silver and Gold Earrings

A pair of English Antique 15 karat silver-top gold earrings with diamonds. The earrings have 96 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10 carats. The earrings are designed in the style of 18th Century girandole earring so popular in Marie Antoinette''s France. Newer backs. Similar pictured in Earrings From Antiquity to the Present, by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Thames & Hudson, 1990, page 76-77.

Antique English Diamond Silver and Gold Earrings

Antique Diamond Demantoid Garnet and Gold Lorgnette

An Antique 15 karat gold lorgnette with diamonds and demantoid garnets. The lorgnette contains 8 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .10 carat, and 4 round-cut demantoid garnets with an approximate total weight of .10 carat. The lorgnette is decorated with dimensional shell and swag elements. Hinged mechanism.

Antique Diamond Demantoid Garnet and Gold Lorgnette

Antique Diamond Emerald Ruby Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

An Antique 18 karat gold butterfly brooch with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The dimensional butterfly brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.00 carat. The brooch has an additional 82 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The brooch is further detailed with 7 bezel-set emeralds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, 7 bezel-set rubies with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, and 2 bezel-set sapphires with an approximate total weight of .20 carat. The brooch has ruby-set knife-wire antennae.

Antique Diamond Emerald Ruby Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

Antique Tiffany & Co. Diamond and Gold Cuff Links

A pair of Antique 18 karat gold cuff links with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The heavy, lozenge-shaped cuff links have 4 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carat, H-I color, VS clarity. Double-sided. With later, signed, Tiffany & Co. box.

Antique Tiffany & Co. Diamond and Gold Cuff Links

Antique Turquoise Diamond and Gold Bracelet/Pendant

An Antique 18 karat gold bracelet with turquoise and diamonds. The bracelet has 24 Old Mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 50 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and 15 turquoise cabochons. The ''offered'' linking bracelet is detachable and the center panel becomes a pendant. Pictured in Understanding Jewellery, by David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Antique Collectors'' Club, 1989, page 185, Plate 247.

Antique Turquoise Diamond and Gold Bracelet/Pendant

Antique Emerald and Diamond 3 Stone Ring

An Antique 18 karat yellow gold ring with emerald and diamonds. The ring has an emerald-cut emerald with an approximate total weight of .80 carat, 4 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and 2 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .02 carat. The ring is designed in a classic 3-stone motif. The ring shank is later.

Antique Emerald and Diamond 3 Stone Ring

French Antique Diamond Lapis Lazuli and Gold Pendant Earrings

A pair of French Antique 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds and lapis lazuli. The articulated earrings have 6 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .24 carat, and round and lozenge-shape lapis lazuli stones. French wires later. Late 19th Century earrings discussed in "Earrings From Antiquity to the Present", by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Thames & Hudson, 1990, page 85-88.

French Antique Diamond Lapis Lazuli and Gold Pendant Earrings

Antique Diamond and Gold Double Serpent Ring

An Antique 18 karat gold, double serpent ring with diamonds. The ring has a 2 old European-cut pear diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and 4 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .04 carat. The ring is designed in a double serpent motif. Serpents and their symbolism are discussed in The Triumph of Love Jewellery 1530-1930, by Geoffrey C. Munn, Thames and Hudson, 1993,. "...this ancient symbol stressed the metaphor of eternal love. All kinds of snake jewels were popular gifts in the nineteenth century, not least because they carried this covert yet fundamental message to the recipient." Discussed in The Triumph of Love Jewellery 1530-1930, by Geoffrey Munn, Thames & Hudson, 1993.

Antique Diamond and Gold Double Serpent Ring

Gold and Platinum Maple Leaf Brooch with Diamonds

An Antique 18 karat gold and platinum-topped gold brooch with diamonds. The open maple leaf motif has delicate diamond accents down the center stem, and three stunning round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carats hanging dynamically from the piece. The 30 rose-cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .30 carat.

Gold and Platinum Maple Leaf Brooch with Diamonds

Antique Gold Drop Earrings with Emeralds, Diamonds and Pearls

A pair of Antique 18 karat gold drop earrings with emeralds, diamonds and pearls. The drop earrings have 10 rectangular-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 0.80 carats, 24 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.12 carats, and 6 round pearls. Worn with a shepherd''s hook.

Antique Gold Drop Earrings with Emeralds, Diamonds and Pearls

Antique Gold and Diamond Heart Locket Necklace

A charming 18 karat gold chain featuring six heart-shaped, diamond-studded dangling charms with a matching pair of two-tiered diamond and gold heart shaped earrings. Each heart in this traditionally sentimental late Victorian suite is studded with approximate total weigh of 2.20 carats of old European-cut diamonds adding substantial sparkle to the already brilliant polished gold. The highly sentimental nature of Victorian jewelry is due in large part to the great love affair between Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The young Queen and her Prince were among the 19th Century''s most celebrated icons of fashion, and they openly celebrated their very doting relationship by giving each other jewelry with snakes or hearts, symbols of eternal love. Although lockets with compartments designed to hold human hair are most often associated with mourning jewelry, they were also, as this necklace and earring suite most probably were, presented as tokens of love.

Antique Gold and Diamond Heart Locket Necklace

Antique Silver-topped Gold and Diamond Pendant

An Antique silver-topped gold pendant with a diamond-studded pendant loop featuring two rings of old European-cut diamonds surrounding one exceptional, significant center stone. The center diamond is approximately 2.35 carats, surrounded by 10 old European-cut and old miners-cut diamonds with an approximate weight of 2.50 carat. There are an additional 15 old European-cut and old-miners cut diamonds on the exterior ring with an approximate weight of 7.50 carats. The detachable bail is set with 3 old European-cut and old miners-cut diamonds with an approximate weight of 0.65 carats, Overall VS-SI clarity, H-J color. This timelessly elegant piece can be worn as a pendant, a brooch or a hairpin. With fitted box.

Antique Silver-topped Gold and Diamond Pendant

Edwardian Ring featuring Pearls and Diamonds

An Edwardian ring featuring two pearls and 22 diamonds set in platinum, with an 18 karat gold shank. The two pearls, which stack up the finger, are elegantly framed by a naturalistic motif echoing the form of a clover made of pear-cut diamonds. The ring is further accented by leaf-like scroll forms studded with old European-cut stones in refined Edwardian brilliance. The diamonds have an approximate total weight of 1.5 carats.

Edwardian Ring featuring Pearls and Diamonds

Victorian Diamond and Pearl Necklace

A Victorian necklace featuring ten natural pearls and 171 old European-cut diamonds set in silver-topped 14 karat yellow gold. The diamonds have an approximate total weight of 20.00 carats. This is a beautiful example of late-19th century romance in design and elegance, as well as in the use of important stones and lustrous pearls.

Victorian Diamond and Pearl Necklace

Victorian Diamond and Pearl Necklace

A Victorian necklace featuring 30 graduating natural pearls, each surrounded by old mine-cut diamonds set in silver-topped 15 karat gold. The diamonds have the approximate total weight of 18.30 carats. The natural pearls range in size from 9.00 mm to 5.00 mm. With Gem and Pearl Laboratory #10280 certificate. The beautiful luster of the pearls is made brilliant by the sparkle of the 399 diamonds that halo them, resulting in an eye-catching and decidedly romantic statement piece.

Victorian Diamond and Pearl Necklace

Victorian Silver Topped Gold Diamond Brooch

An Antique silver-topped 14 karat gold brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 1 old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 0.75 carats, 10 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, and 139 old mine-cut and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats.

Victorian Silver Topped Gold Diamond Brooch

Antique Diamond, Emerald, Ruby Baroque Pearl Silver and Gold Brooch

A Victorian silver-top 18 karat gold, diamond, emerald, ruby and pearl brooch, featuring a depiction of the penultimate scene from the fable "Jack and the Beanstalk" in which Jack lures the giant by stealing the mermaid''s harp. A baroque pearl forms the tail of a sculpted 18-karat gold mermaid decorating the base of a lyre outlined with old mine-cut diamonds. The strings of the lyre are accented with emeralds, rubies, diamonds and a sapphire weighing approximately 1.75, .30, .30 and .05 carats respectively.

Antique Diamond, Emerald, Ruby Baroque Pearl Silver and Gold Brooch

Victorian Gold and Diamond ''Navette'' Ring

A Victorian 18 karat gold and diamond ring. The navette ring is composed of 15 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.75 carats, prong set, forming a marquise shape.

Victorian Gold and Diamond ''Navette'' Ring

Late Victorian Diamond Gold and Silver Pendant

A late Victorian 18 karat gold and silver pendant with diamonds. The pendant has approximately 140 old European cut diamonds with a total weight of 4.70 carats. The pendant is an open scroll motif, and has a bale that opens and closes.

Late Victorian Diamond Gold and Silver Pendant

English Victorian Amethyst Pearl and Diamond Cuff Bracelet

An English Victorian 18 karat gold bangle bracelet with amethyst, diamonds and pearls. The hinged bangle bracelet centers on a cabochon amethyst with a ribbon of 9 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .26 carat. The center cluster is framed by 26 seed pearls. With antique fitted box.

English Victorian Amethyst Pearl and Diamond Cuff Bracelet

Victorian Gold and Silver Ring with Diamonds

A Victorian silver and 14 karat gold ring with diamonds. The ring has 31 old mine-cut diamonds set in silver and fetchingly arranged in three rows, with a decorative scallop edge on the band. The approximate total weight of the stones is 1.15 carats.

Victorian Gold and Silver Ring with Diamonds

Victorian Moonstone, Diamond & Ruby Brooch

A Victorian 15 karat gold brooch with moonstones, diamonds and rubies. The coupled heart-shaped moonstones are each framed by a bright ring of alternating round-cut diamonds and rubies, and topped with a flowing diamond and ruby ribbon tied in a bow. The brooch''s 23 old mine-cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .70 carats, and the 25 old European-cut rubies have an approximate total weight of 1.07 carats.

Victorian Moonstone, Diamond & Ruby Brooch

Victorian Diamond and Ruby Bangle Bracelet

A Victorian 14 karat gold bangle bracelet with diamonds and rubies. The light gold bangle features alternating diamonds and rubies, framed by intricate scroll work settings that can be seen from either side of the gems. The bangle bracelet has 8 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats, 9 oval-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.05 carats. Marked 585 on tongue.

Victorian Diamond and Ruby Bangle Bracelet

Antique 15kt gold Bow Brooch with Diamond

An English Victorian 15 karat gold brooch with diamond. Executed in the shape of a bold architectural bow, the highly polished piece offers a stark, strongly design-oriented alternative to the ultra-delicate and ultra-feminine bows of the later Edwardian period. The brooch has an old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .40 carat.

Antique 15kt gold Bow Brooch with Diamond

Victorian Diamond and Turquoise Snake Bangle Bracelet

A Victorian 15 karat gold bracelet with turquoise and diamonds. This is a large bangle, to be worn either on the wrist or as an arm band, It has the form of a serpent dynamically wrapped upon itself and seemingly caught in motion, covered in tightly-set cabochons of turquoise and replete with striated gold on the reverse side to complete the appearance of a snake. The head of the reptile features a large tear drop-shaped cabochon of turquoise framed by twelve old mine-cut diamonds that have approximate total weight of 1.14 carats, and has a lovely pair of diamond eyes. Turquoise was mistakenly named as such during the Victorian times because it was believed by most Western Europeans that the blue stone came from Turkey, when in fact it merely passed through Turkey on its way westward from Iran. Because of its color, turquoise was associated by Britons in the Victorian Age with the Forget Me Not flower, which, in the very sophisticated and well known "language of flowers," was a symbol of undying love. The snake, when depicted in a continuous loop, was also understood during this period as a potent emblem for eternal affection, largely due to the fact that Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with a snake band with a gemstone head as a wedding ring.

Victorian Diamond and Turquoise Snake Bangle Bracelet

Victorian Gold Acrostic Necklace.

An English Victorian 18 karat gold acrostic necklace. The heart charms consist of 161 rose-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 3.20 carats. The center of these charms have 2 emeralds, with amethyst, ruby, sapphire and topaz that have the approximate total weight of .90 carat. Acrostic jewelry, which was immensely popular in the highly sentimental Victorian era, was actually originally introduced to the popular market by the famed French house of Mellerio, who created acrostic jewels for Marie Antoinette. A piece of acrostic jewelry is a piece that includes a series of center stones whose first letter of their common names spells out a word of affection. For example, this necklace, whose charms feature center stones of Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald (again), Sapphire and Topaz in that order is meant to say "DEAREST." Each of the heart-shaped charms in this particular piece features not only the meaning-filled center stone but also several carats worth of rose-cut diamonds, that encrust their faces.

Victorian Gold Acrostic Necklace.

Victorian Gold Snake Bangle with Diamond, Sapphire and Ruby

An English Victorian 18 karat gold hinged snake bangle with diamond, sapphire and ruby. The head is a cabochon blue sapphire that has the approximate weight of .15 carat surrounded by .12 carat of rose-cut diamonds with 2 cabochon ruby eyes that have the approximate total weight of .04 carat. After Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake band with an emerald head as a wedding present in 1839, snakes, particularly in a fully realized or continuous band form, came to be a symbol for eternal love and devotion to the Victorians. This bracelet, which could alternatively be worn as an arm band, depending on the preference and comfort of the wearer, is a particularly charming example of Victorian snake jewelry. Unusually, the serpent''s tail fully encircles the bangle several times as the two ends of the bangle meet, adding fantastically to its visual width. The diamond-haloed sapphire crowning the piece adds a beautiful bit of color and brilliance, as do the ruby eyes.

Victorian Gold Snake Bangle with Diamond, Sapphire and Ruby

Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Opal and Gold Stick Pin

An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold stick pin with enameling and black opal by Marcus & Co. The stick pin has a cabochon opal surrounded with four enamel side sections decorated with gold relief arabesque designs. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and ... their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.

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Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Opal and Gold Stick Pin

Lucien Gautrait French Art Nouveau Gold Pendant with Sapphire, Diamonds and Pearl

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant with pink sapphire, diamonds and pearl by Lucien Gautrait. The pendant has a pear-cut pink sapphire with an approximate total weight of .80 carat, 2 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .10 carat, and a baroque pearl drop. The pendant shows an emergent woman with flowing hair and outstretched arms in a euphoric opium-induced state. Art Nouveau 18 karat chain not original to the piece. Pictured in Masterpieces of French Jewelry, by Judith Price, Running Press, 2006, page 48. Pictured in Henri Vever French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, Thames Hudson, 2001, page 1110.

Lucien Gautrait French Art Nouveau Gold Pendant with Sapphire, Diamonds and Pearl

Louis Zorra Art Nouveau Diamond, Amethyst, Pearl and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch

An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique à jour brooch with diamond, amethysts and pearl by Louis Zorra. The brooch has an old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .65 carat, 21 round bezel-set amethysts with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, and a hanging, enamel-capped pearl. Similar pictured in "Imperishable Beauty Art Nouveau Jewelry", by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Elyse Zorn Karlin, "MFA Publications Museum of Fine Arts", Boston, 2008, pages 8 and 68. "Zorra was possibly born in Italy, working in Paris during the Art Nouveau period)...he moved to Paris from Asti, Italy, and exhibited at the Salon des artistes français, receiving an honorable mention in 1902." Markowitz and Karlin in Imperishable Beauty, pg. 151.

Louis Zorra Art Nouveau Diamond, Amethyst, Pearl and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch

Marcus & Company Art Nouveau Peridot, Diamond, Gold and Enamel Ring

An American Art Nouveau gold, peridot, diamond and enamel ring by Marcus & Co. The unique Renaissance Revival motif features green enameled 18-karat gold, two round-cut peridots totaling approximately 1.60 carats, and 30 round-cut diamonds that weigh approximately 1.20 carats. The Renaissance Revival design influence is carried onto the ring shank, culminating in a diamond set into the ring shank bottom. This striking ring demonstrates the color sensitivity of the famed American firm, Marcus & Co. It is also a rare and interesting Art Nouveau example of a Toi et Moi ring, or a ring in which two stones or two types of stones dynamically cross over each other symbolically representing a romantic union. The Toi et Moi rings were popularized by no less than Napoleon Bonaparte when he scandalously proposed to his soon to be Empress, Josephine. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts s ... ensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.

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Marcus & Company Art Nouveau Peridot,  Diamond, Gold and Enamel Ring

French Art Nouveau Pearl, Diamond, Gold and Silver Pendant

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and silver 4 inch pendant with diamonds and freshwater pearls suspended from a 29 inch 18 karat gold chain with 8 freshwater pearls. The pendant has 40 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .40 carat, and 13 freshwater pearls. The articulated pendant is designed in a stylized wisteria motif.

French Art Nouveau Pearl, Diamond, Gold and Silver Pendant

Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau White Opal and Chrysoprase, Plique-à-Jour Enamel and Gold Pendant Brooch

An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black ... opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard. Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.

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Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau White Opal and Chrysoprase, Plique-à-Jour Enamel and Gold Pendant Brooch

Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel and Gold Locket

An American Art Nouveau enamel, 14 karat bloomed gold and diamond pendant locket. The figure on the heart-shaped pendant locket wears an old European-cut diamond ''earring'' with an approximate weight of .04 carat. The uniquely-shaped pendant locket has double-sided compartments.

Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel and Gold Locket

French Art Nouveau Baroque Pearl Diamond Enamel and Gold Whiplash Brooch

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, platinum and enamel brooch with pearl and diamonds. The brooch has a Baroque pearl measuring approximately 20 mm x 7.15 mm, and 5 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .55 carat. The brooch is designed in the classic floral/whiplash Art Nouveau motif.

French Art Nouveau Baroque Pearl Diamond Enamel and Gold Whiplash Brooch

Art Nouveau Enamel Sweet Pea Brooch with Fly

An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold sweet pea brooch in pink and green shaded enamel. On the open petal of the charming pink bloom is a silver-topped gold insect studded with 14 rose-cut diamonds weighing 15 carat and 2 cabochon ruby eyes that weigh .04 carat. With fitted box.

Art Nouveau Enamel Sweet Pea Brooch with Fly

Art Nouveau Gold and Platinum Pendant

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and platinum pendant brooch with diamonds and freshwater pearl. A remarkable early use of platinum, this Art Nouveau pendant features intricate, sinuous scrolls of gold in a psuedo-Celtic design, terminating in blooming branches of diamond-studded platinum. These rose cut diamonds have the approximate total weight of .20 carat. The piece features one old European-cut center diamond that has the approximate weight of .25 carat and a hanging 3.5mm freshwater pearl drop. Attributed to Maurice Dufrène

Art Nouveau Gold and Platinum Pendant

Art Nouveau Brooch with Aquamarine, Diamond and plique-à-jour Enamel by Lalique

"L''Anémone des Bois", A French Art Nouveau masterwork by René Lalique. Created in 1897, this 18 karat gold brooch showcases Lalique''s mastery of "plique-à-jour" enamel and also represents one of his earliest explorations of the art of molded glass. The brooch is accented by two oval faceted aquamarines weighing approximately 8.10 and 3.75 carats. More than any technical mastery or gemological import, the brooch is distinguished by its aesthetics and its deep meaning. This exquisite "Anémones des Bois" Brooch is an important example of René Lalique''s early work, predating his international debut at the Exposition Universelle of 1900. While his most prolific version of the anemone motif was the "Anémone couronnée" or poppy anemone, only a few choice pieces depict the "Anémone des Bois" or wood anemone. Unlike the poppy anemone, which grew in the balmy Mediterranean summer, the Anémone des Bois was known to the French as the harbinger of spring. While the forest floor lay dormant, the wood anemone alone reared its small head. Areas where the poor could pick this humble flower were demarcated with signs reading "Les Halles." The Anémone des Bois lined the border of the forest, enticing promenading couples into the forest''s embrace for an afternoon tryst. Pure white anemones thus became a symbol of virginal purity, mourning its imminent profanity by carnal desire. Lalique ... knew these traditions well from spending his childhood and summer holidays in the commune of Aÿ in Marne, located on a plateau overlooking the hillsides of Champagne. Two forests dominated the Marne landscape. To the west lay the old-growth forest of Sermiers, and to the east lay La forêt domaniale du Chêne à la Vierge. Promenading in the forest was a popular Sunday pastime for locals, especially as a way to escape the unrelenting dry heat of the noonday sun. Lalique expanded upon the theme of carnal desire, using the anemone to allegorize the stages of courtship. Our Anémone des Bois marked the beginning of this five-year-long exploration. With its petals slightly closed, the flower embodies the initial "rejet" or rejection of love. Fitting of a depiction of "rejet" the work epitomizes divine symmetry and youthful vigor. The flower''s posture relates to local wisdom: villagers could tell rain was coming when the Anémone des Bois closed its petals. By closing its petals, the flower rebuffs the words and sexual advances of the man. The second anemone in the series has its petals in disarray but receptive to potential pollination. An anemone in this position embodied "l''acceptation de l''amour" or the acceptance of love. The third anemone is the most sensual of the series, two anemones approach a passionate kiss, embodying the "consommation" or consummation. The final anemone in the series was completed in 1901. Titled "Mort de l''anémone" it is Lalique''s only representation of the blue anemone. Through the consummation, its petals have been dyed and its purity defiled. In macabre detail, the skeletal structure of the anemone''s rhizomes, or underground stems, are put on full view. The plant has been uprooted, and the encounter has finished. Contemporary novelist Émile Pouvillon related the death of the anemone to the act of deflowering in his 1895 short story "Les Anémones sont Mortes." The story''s heroine, a young country girl, loses herself in a bout of unrestrained euphoria with her lover. In their rolling about, "Anémones des Bois" are ripped out and bruised. At the 1898 Salon, the first Anémone des Bois was a critical triumph. Displayed with the second and third anemone in the series, the first was favored for its fully articulated plique-à-jour leaves. In the premier French decorative arts magazine Art et Décoration, the Anémone des Bois was praised for its "candid whiteness" and leaves that suggest "an infinitely complicated and precious architecture." Our Anémone des Bois is resplendent with the technical acuity that made Lalique known as the "master of modern bijoux (jewelry.)" In his early years, Lalique personally designed and modeled each mold for his creations in clay. These molds were then cast in iron and coated with a paste of resin and beeswax, hand-tooled for detail. The finish pressed-glass jewel was submerged in a bath of hydrofluoric acid, frosting the exterior. A thin layer of "jade green" powdered enamel was sifted and annealed onto the piece. The venation of each petal was painstakingly cut, revealing the plain crystal underneath. The warm glow of the gold backing gives the piece a breathtaking amber hue.

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Art Nouveau Brooch with Aquamarine, Diamond and plique-à-jour Enamel by Lalique

Art Nouveau Gold, Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Ginkgo Leaf Pendant

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, enamel, pearl and diamond ginkgo leaf pendant, centering an oval pearl within a surround of ridged swirling vines, suspending a cascade of leaves and buds in iridescent green enamel with orange tones, accented by an old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.07 carat.

Art Nouveau Gold, Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Ginkgo Leaf Pendant

Belle Epoque Garnet, Blue Sapphire, Golden Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Lavaliere

A Belle Epoque platinum and 14 karat gold lavaliere necklace with bezel-set garnet, yellow sapphire, blue sapphire and diamonds. The diamond-set platinum chain necklace suspends a cushion-shape red garnet with an approximate weight of 5.50 carats, an oval blue sapphire with an approximate weight of 5.75 carats, an oval cushion yellow-orange sapphire with an approximate weight of 5.50 carats, and rose and Old European cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats. With original signed "Peter Rath Munchen" fitted box.

Belle Epoque Garnet, Blue Sapphire, Golden Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Lavaliere

Chaumet Paris Belle Epoque Diamond and Platinum Festoon Necklace

A French Belle Epoque platinum-topped gold necklace with diamonds by Chaumet. The necklace has old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 68 carats, H-I-J color, VS/SI clarity. The necklace is designed as a graduated double festoon. The center stone weighs approximately 2.50 carats, with the remaining stones graduating to .20 carat. The house of Chaumet was founded in 1780 by Marie-Etiene Nitot as Nitot et fils. Nitot had begun his career working with Auber, jeweler to Queen Marie-Antoinette. An aristocratic clientele was soon to follow him to his new workshop. A reputation as the "jeweler of the tiara" was earned in those early commissions when Nitot created the coronation crown for Napoleon. Napoleon wanted to make his family transcendent and saw jewels as the true symbol of power to be used in displaying his kingly authority. Empress Josephine appeared at the coronation resplendent in a tiara created for her by Nitot, and so it began. A similar festoon necklace is pictured in Chaumet Paris, by Roselyne Hurel and Diana Scarisbrick, Paris musées, 1998, page 95, Plate 128.

Chaumet Paris Belle Epoque Diamond and Platinum Festoon Necklace

French Belle Epoque Diamond, Pearl, Platinum and Paillet Enamel Watch Necklace

A French Belle Epoque 18 karat gold, platinum, diamond, pearl and Paillet enamel pendant watch necklace. The pendant watch has 26 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.05 carats, 70 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and 28 seed pearls. The back of the pendant has a Paillet enamel depicting putti, Aphrodite with doves in hand and Pandora. It can be counted as an example of the virtuoso enameling Paillet is known for. The platinum chain is composed of 4 diamond-set plaques. Similar pictured in Boucheron Le Joaillier Du Temps, by Gilles Neret, Conti, 1992, pages 49-50.

French Belle Epoque Diamond, Pearl, Platinum and Paillet Enamel Watch Necklace

Lucien Gautrait and Leon Gariod French Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel Platinum and Gold Bracelet

A French Belle Epoque 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds designed by Lucien Gautrait for Leon Gariod. The bracelet has 5 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.90 carat set into 6 openwork wheat- and foliate-decorated plaque links. The 3 larger links are enameled and heavily decorated.

Lucien Gautrait and Leon Gariod French Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel Platinum and Gold Bracelet

Belle Epoque Tennis Brooch with Ruby Diamond and Pearl

An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with rubies, diamonds and pearls. The fetching sporting brooch features two tennis rackets, cleverly executed in both platinum and gold for various parts of their hardware, and studded with diamonds and rubies on their respective handles. The brooch comes with two delicate pearls that serve as the tennis balls these rackets would naturally seek. The rose cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .12 carat and the calibre-cut rubies have the approximate total weight of .20 carat.

Belle Epoque Tennis Brooch with Ruby Diamond and Pearl

Edwardian Diamond, Ruby, Platinum and Gold ''Navette'' Ring

An Edwardian platinum and 18 karat gold ring with rubies and diamonds. The ring has 52 square-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.65 carats, and 46 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .75 carat. The Navette shaped ring is topped with a diamond-set flower in the field of rubies framed with diamonds.

Edwardian Diamond, Ruby, Platinum and Gold ''Navette''  Ring

Antique Emerald Diamond Platinum and Gold Cluster Ring

An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum ring with emerald and diamonds. The ring centers on a Colombian emerald with an approximate weight of 4.50 carats, which is framed with two rows of old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .77 carat. The emerald is certified by the American Gemological Laboratory certificate # CS 69904 which states the emerald has "insignificant traditional treatment" and the country of origin is Colombia.

Antique Emerald Diamond Platinum and Gold Cluster Ring

Edwardian Diamond and Pearl Ring

An Edwardian 14 karat gold ring with diamonds and pearls. The ring has 15 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .85 carat, and 3 center-set pearls. The ring shank is later.

Edwardian Diamond and Pearl Ring

Edwardian Platinum Topped Gold Sautoir Necklace

An Edwardian platinum sautoir necklace with diamonds and seed pearls. The necklace is comprised of a chain with five rows of seed pearls, interspersed with complex decorative filigree work and studded with diamonds. It has a hanging pendant encrusted with diamonds, cut with open work and replete will delicate millgraining. The piece has 235 old mine- and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, including the chain. The center of the pendant is one old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .75 carat.

Edwardian Platinum Topped Gold Sautoir Necklace

French Art Deco Coral, Onyx and Diamond Cuff Links

A pair of French Art Deco platinum and 18 karat gold cuff links with diamond, onyx and coral. The cuff links have 56 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .40 carat, and polished coral and onyx stones. Double-sided.

French Art Deco Coral, Onyx and Diamond Cuff Links

Kohn Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Lapis Lazuli Jardiniere Brooch

An Art Deco platinum and gold brooch with diamonds, ruby, emerald and lapis lazuli by Kohn. The brooch has 38 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, with ruby and emerald accents. The base of the jardiniere is formed of a single piece of lapis lazuli banded with red and black enamel. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.

Kohn Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Lapis Lazuli Jardiniere Brooch

Mauboussin Late Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.

Mauboussin Late Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

Dreicer & Co Art Deco Diamond and Pearl Watch

An American Art Deco platinum and white gold watch with diamonds and seed pearls by Dreicer & Co. The rectangular-faced watch has 68 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .76 carats surrounding the platinum case and accenting the bracelet strap of seed pearls measuring approximately 2 to 3 mm. Exhibited in "Roaring into the Future: New York 1915-35," at The Munson Williams Proctor Arts Institute, Utica, NY, June 17-October 9, 2017.

Dreicer & Co Art Deco Diamond and Pearl Watch

Krementz & Co. for Dreicer & Co. Art Deco Diamond, Rock Crystal, Platinum and Gold Dress Set

An American Art Deco platinum and 14 karat gold dress set with diamonds and bezel-set carved rock crystals by Krementz & Co., retailed by Dreicer & Co., New York. The dress set has 155 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.95 carats, and 11 carved rock crystals. The octagon-shaped set contains a pair of double-sided cuff links, four buttons and three dress studs. In original signed Dreicer & Co. box. Similar pictured in "Precious Cufflinks From Pablo Picasso to James Bond", by Walter Grasser, Franz Hemmerle, Alexander von Wurttemberg, Hirmer, 2016, page 60.

Krementz & Co. for Dreicer & Co. Art Deco Diamond, Rock Crystal, Platinum and Gold Dress Set

Art Deco Diamond and Ruby Ring

An Art Deco platinum and 14 karat gold ring with diamonds and rubies. The ring is designed in a classic platinum-on-gold plaque motif, with the 3 larger diamonds architecturally framed by a middle halo of ruby, which is further accented with a ring of Old European-cut diamonds. The ring has 3 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, 34 rose-cut diamonds.with an approximate weight of .34 carat and 25 calibre-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .25 carat. The ring shank is later

Art Deco Diamond and Ruby Ring

Art Deco Amethyst and Diamond Necklace

An Edwardian diamond and amethyst necklace set in 18 karat white gold. The necklace''s double chain is comprised of a repeating pattern of white gold diamond-studded plaques and cabochon amethysts, while the two central chandelier pendants both feature substantial cabochon amethysts and detailed frames studded with white diamonds. This necklace has 290 rose-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 7.30 carats. The weight of the 2 large amethysts is 29.00 carats and 21.00 carats. With additional 30 oval cabochon amethysts. With documentation of this necklace designed with fire opals made by A.Marx & Co jewelers London

Art Deco Amethyst and Diamond Necklace

A Pair of Multi-Gemstone Brooches by Rene Boivin

A set of two of French Art Deco 18 karat gold "lilac-leaf" clip brooches,the larger set with oval-cut green tourmalines, yellow heliodor beryls, yellow-gray beryls and aquamarines, highlighted by a single-cut diamond stem set in platinum, the second set with circular and oval-cut pink tourmalines, pale amethysts, and green tourmalines, both with medium-relief naturalistic modeling, by René Boivin. Executed under the leadership of famed Boivin designer Juliette Moutard, these spectacular pieces are as significant in the history of high jewelry as they are beautiful. These elegant brooches demonstrate the height of Moutard''s particular style: the refined, geometrically-rendered organic shape of the lilac leaf, the sensitive and masterful employment of color gradation, and the interplay of complementary shapes are all hallmarks of Moutard''s work for Boivin. The brooches have oval-cut tourmalines, green and yellow beryl, which together have and approximate total weight of 42.25 carats; aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats; and 30 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat. With authenticity report from expert Francoise Cailles. Boivin''s work is a remarkable exception to many of the presiding trends of the 1930s. For one, the house eschewed the stark, monotonous, and highly geometric Art Deco stye. While other firms continued ... to churn out architecturally clean designs in diamond and platinum, Boivin maintained their commitment to celebrating color and the organic forms of the natural world. Also notable, and unusual for the time, is that Boivin was an all-female led firm. After the premature death of René Boivin in 1917, the firm would be led until its dissolution by his widow, Jeanne Boivin, and a host of brilliant female designers, among them Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin,

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A Pair of Multi-Gemstone Brooches by Rene Boivin

Art Nouveau Necklace with Opal Scarab by Antoine Bricteux

A French Egyptian Revival 18 karat gold pendant necklace with boulder opal, diamond, freshwater pearl and enamel by Antoine Bricteux, Paris. Designed as a winged scarab carved in boulder opal, measuring 11.89 mm by 4.06 mm, within a surround of white en plein and indigo plique-a-jour enamel wings, with 21 old mine-cut diamond highlights, approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and a freshwater pearl drop measuring approximately 5.50 mm, suspended from oval and rectangular trace link chain, convertible to a brooch, with original fitted box. Note: Exquisitely modeled and finished, this Egyptian Revival winged scarab necklace by Maison Bricteux, Paris, exemplifies the total freedom of imagination that characterized the Art Nouveau period. Centering a scarab carved from a boulder opal still in its seam of ironstone, within a surround of translucent plique-a-jour enamel feathers, the jewel demonstrates Art Nouveau''s restless exploration of unusual techniques and materials. The jeweler Antoine Bricteux ran a small boutique firm in the neighborhood of the Palais Royale, a center of the artistic luxury trade in Paris. Mention of his work appears in Henri Vever''s history of French jewelry, where Maison Bricteux is described as a "distinguished firm" which created "charming jewelry of modern inspiration." Bricteux collaborated with the designer G. Landois -along with the great firm ... of Louis Aucoc -until Landois'' sudden death. Egyptian motifs such as the scarab have appeared prominently in European art since the Renaissance. Worn over the millennia in many societies as a favorite amulet, the scarab is identified with purity of heart. During the Art Nouveau period, it was a highly popular design motif along with winged women, who represented the imaginative liberty of the age.

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Art Nouveau Necklace with Opal Scarab by Antoine Bricteux

Tiffany & Co. Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with rubies and diamonds by Boucher for Tiffany & Co. The brooch has 27 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.45 carats, and 9 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .85 carats. The brooch is designed in a modified shell form.

Tiffany & Co. Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch

Ruser Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Bracelet

An American Mid-20th Century platinum, gold and diamond bracelet by Ruser. The Modernist motif bracelet has 20 unique diamond pave links that are individually hinged and further decorated with gold beading. There are 300 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 16.00 carats. William Ruser was a much sought-after Beverly Hills jeweler to the Hollywood community. His pieces were worn by numerous film stars on- and off-screen, from the 1940''s through the 1960''s. The distinctive Ruser style involved skillfully-sculpted children and pearl-winged angels, often seated on clouds of freshwater pearls and crowned with halos of tiny seed pearls, as well as less whimsical jewelry. He closed the doors to his shop in 1969, whereupon the property was bought by Van Cleef and Arpels, which remains in the same location on Rodeo Drive today.

Ruser Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Bracelet

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold and Platinum Pair of Brooches

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooches with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. Each ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat which are bezel-set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. With signed Cartier box. Similar pictured in Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, page 44-45.

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold and Platinum Pair of Brooches

Boucheron Paris Retro Diamond, Blue Sapphire and Gold Bracelet

A French Retro 18-karat gold bracelet with blue sapphires and diamonds by Boucheron. The flexible link bracelet has 72 cabochon blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.20 carats, and old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats. The bracelet is composed of 4 dimensional half moons set with cabochon sapphires and diamonds from a double row of oval and rectangular "seed" links.

Boucheron Paris Retro Diamond, Blue Sapphire and Gold Bracelet

Rubel Freres French Retro Diamond, Emerald and White Gold Bracelet

A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with emeralds and diamonds attributed to Rubel Frères. The bracelet has 64 square-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 8.30 carats, and 32 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carat. The flexible bracelet is designed in a step motif.

Rubel Freres French Retro Diamond, Emerald and White Gold Bracelet

Retro Continental Diamond Gold Ring

A European Retro 18 karat gold ring with diamonds. The ring has 15 round old European-cut and old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.85 carats. The polished yellow gold ring is designed in a modified buckle motif.

Retro Continental Diamond Gold Ring

Cartier Paris Retro Diamond Ruby and Gold Ring

A French Retro 18 karat yellow gold and platinum ring with diamonds and rubies by Cartier. The ring has 14 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carats, and 3 rectangular-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carats.

Cartier Paris Retro Diamond Ruby and Gold Ring

Cartier Paris Retro Gold, Diamond and Ruby Covered Watch

A French Retro 18 karat pink gold- and platinum-covered watch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier Paris. The cover of the watch has 14 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carat, and 3 calibre-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carat. The watch has a flexible box-link bracelet. The movement is by Jaeger Le Coultre. With signed Cartier box.

Cartier Paris Retro Gold, Diamond and Ruby Covered Watch

Gold Earrings with Diamonds

A pair of Retro 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds. The earrings have 22 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, of VS clarity, H-J color.

Gold Earrings with Diamonds

Retro Bangle Bracelet by Cartier

An 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond Retro bangle bracelet by Cartier. The central motif of foliate design, surrounds a European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.50 carats. It can be worn as a brooch or hinged on the bracelet. Some of the petals are pavé-set with diamonds while others are highlighted by baguette diamonds. Mounted in 18 karat yellow gold. The brooch signed Cartier London, J.C. and numbered 9874, the bangle signed J.C. and numbered 9874. The piece has 200 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 19.20 carats; the center diamond being 2.50 carats in approximate total weight. A similar bracelet is pictured in "Amazing Cartier" by Nadine Coleno, page 107.

Retro Bangle Bracelet by Cartier

Stylized Flower Bouquet Brooch by Cartier

A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond clip brooch, Monture Cartier. The brooch is designed as a stylized ropetwist floral spray with diamond blossoms and gold leaves, highlighted by 21 Old European-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, approximate total weight 5.00 carats, suspending a ropetwist tassel with acorn pendant. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H/I color grade. Mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum. The clip brooch was manufactured by the Cartier workshop Dubois, who produced some of the most remarkable pieces of "tutti fruitI" and other Indian inspired jewelry for the firm.

Stylized Flower Bouquet Brooch by Cartier

Van Cleef & Arpels French Retro Gold, Diamond and Sapphire Bouquet Earrings

A pair of French Retro 18 karat gold bouquet earrings with diamonds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each designed as a cluster of sapphire blossoms centering diamond pistils amidst leaves and foliage, set with 10 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat and 50 round brilliant-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats.

Van Cleef & Arpels French Retro Gold, Diamond and Sapphire Bouquet Earrings

Late 20th-Century Gold and Diamond Necklace

An American Estate 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds. The necklace is composed of basket weave flexible links centered with 6 diagonally-set diamonds. The necklace contains 192 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 13.45 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.

Late 20th-Century Gold and Diamond Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Coral and Diamond Drop Earrings

A pair of Estate coral, diamond and 18 karat gold earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels. The articulated earrings have 4 oval cabochon coral centers that are framed with 90 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 7.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The suspended bottoms of the earrings are detachable. With Van Cleef & Arpels box.

Van Cleef & Arpels Coral and Diamond Drop Earrings

Estate Colombian Emerald, Diamond and Platinum Ring

An Estate platinum and 18 karat gold ring with emerald and diamonds. The ring has a rectangular emerald-cut emerald with an approximate weight of 8.99 carats, and 2 tapered baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of .75 carat, G/H color, VS clarity. The ring is composed classically with the gold-set center emerald, which is flanked by the two baguette diamonds. With AGL report #CS 67287 stating "Minor Traditional Treatment", and of Colombian origin.

Estate Colombian Emerald, Diamond and Platinum Ring

Estate Aquamarine, Sapphire, Diamond and Gold Earrings

A pair of American Estate 18 karat yellow and white gold earrings with aquamarines, sapphires and diamonds by Zwikker & Zacher. These earrings have 4 oval aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 34.00 carats, 28 oval sapphires with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, and 34 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .68 carats. Detachable drops. With original box. Beloved as the birthstone for the month of March, the name aquamarine is derived from the Latin word for sea water. Known and treasured since before modern times, the 1st Century A.D. historian and philosopher Pliny the Elder wrote of the stone, "the lovely aquamarine, which seems to have come from some mermaid''s treasure house, in the depths of a summer sea, has charms not to be denied." Roman legend had it that the stone absorbed and preserved young love, and was the most popular stone for marriage and morning gifts. (A morning gift is an object presented to the bride by her groom the morning after their wedding.) In fact, this custom may well be the origin of the "something blue" that is traditionally presented to a bride before her nuptials. The stone was also believed to protect travelers, particularly sailors, and is often associated with the far-traveling St. Thomas the Apostle. From ancient through Medieval times aquamarine was the preferred stone for the making of fortune-tell ... ing crystal balls for its supposed "divining power," and similarly used as an antidote to eye illnesses for the same reason. This particular piece exemplifies the beauty of blue aquamarine, especially with its stunning blue sapphire and diamond accents.

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Estate Aquamarine, Sapphire, Diamond and Gold Earrings

Mario Buccellati Estate Emerald, Diamond and Gold Ring

An Italian Estate 18 karat white and yellow gold ring with emerald and diamonds by Buccellati. The ring has an oval-cut Colombian emerald with an approximate total weight of 2.19 carats, and 30 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .80 carat. The ring is composed in a classic Mario Buccellati foliate design, set with round diamonds that center on the engraved bezel-set emerald. With certificate from Mario Buccellati dated June 14, 2012, stating the ring has ''''a Colombian emerald weighing 2.19 ct. and 20 diamond weighing .80 ct in total."

Mario Buccellati Estate Emerald, Diamond and Gold Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels Estate White and Natural Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Earrings

A pair of Estate 18 karat gold and platinum earrings with white and yellow diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 96 round-cut white diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.50 carats, F/G color, VS clarity and 96 round-cut natural fancy vivid yellow diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.50 carats. The diamonds range in size from ,07 carat to .15 carat. The earrings have been certified by the Gemological Institute of America, certificate # 2175461170 for the natural fancy vivid yellow diamonds.

Van Cleef & Arpels Estate White and Natural Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Earrings

Marina B Diamond and Gold ''Onda" Earrings

A pair of Italian 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds by Marina B. The "Onda" earrings have 240 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 11.86 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. One of Marina B''s first collections in 1978 included the ''Onda'' earring. The Italian word for wave is onda, and the earrings exemplify waves, weaving though the earrings like ''waves in the sea.''

Marina B Diamond and Gold ''Onda' Earrings

Bulgari Estate Diamond and Gold Ring

An Italian Estate 18 karat gold ring with diamonds by Bulgari. The ring centers on an emerald-cut diamond, 4.01 carats, H color, VS-2 clarity. The architectural setting has 50 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.80 carats. Gemological Institute of America, certificate #2185558564. The center diamond has had minor polishing; the GIA certified weight is 4.01 carats, H color, VS-2 clarity.

Bulgari Estate Diamond and Gold Ring

Carvin French for Tiffany & Co. Estate Diamond Gold and Wood Bombé Ring

An American Estate 18 karat gold and wood ring with diamonds by Carvin French for Tiffany & Co. The bombé modernist ring has 9 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .25 carat set into an oval, and a swirl detail of inlayed gold. The ring has a gold interior lining ring.

Carvin French for Tiffany & Co. Estate Diamond Gold and Wood Bombé Ring

Estate Diamond Ruby and Platinum Cluster Earrings

A pair of Estate platinum and 14 karat gold earrings with rubies and diamonds. The earrings have 12 round rubies with an approximate total weight of .85 carat, and 34 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.25 carats. The earrings are designed in a classic cluster motif. The posts are 14 karat gold.

Estate Diamond Ruby and Platinum Cluster Earrings

Estate Diamond Opal Platinum and Gold Cluster Earrings

A pair of Estate platinum earrings with diamonds and black opals. The earrings have 32 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.92 carats, and 2 oval black opals measuring 11.08 mm by 9.70 mm. The earrings are designed in a classic cluster motif, with the diamonds surrounding the opals.

Estate Diamond Opal Platinum and Gold Cluster Earrings

Asprey London Diamond Gold and Enamel Cat Brooch

An Italian Estate 18 karat gold and enamel brooch with diamonds by Asprey London. The brooch has 10 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .20 carats. The golden enamel cat has sky blue enamel spots.

Asprey London Diamond Gold and Enamel Cat Brooch

White Gold Ring with Sapphire and Diamonds

An American 18 karat white gold ring with sapphire and diamonds. The ring centers on an unheated oval-cut Ceylon blue sapphire with an approximate total weight of 5.25 carats, surrounded by 30 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.28 carats. Accompanied by American Gemological Laboratory report #1093621 stating Ceylon origin, with no evidence of heat treatment.

White Gold Ring with Sapphire and Diamonds

Poiray Paris Diamond, Gold and Leather Cord Heart Pendant

A French modern 18 karat yellow gold and red leather cord pendant necklace with diamonds by Poiray. The heart pendant necklace has round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .25 carat. Created in 1974 by François Herail and Michel Hermelin, the House of Poiray is nicknamed "The girl of the Place Vendôme" because it is the last to join the very closed circuit of the great jewelers of the Place Vendôme. The company Poiray opened their first shop in 1988 in Paris.

Poiray Paris Diamond, Gold and Leather Cord Heart Pendant

A pair of platinum earrings by Kauffman de Suisse

A pair of platinum earrings by Kauffman de Suisse featuring two cut-corner square cut fancy yellow internally flawless diamonds that weigh 3.24 carats and 3.04 carats respectively, and accented by two round brilliant diamonds, each weighing approximately .65 carat each. They an approximate F-G color and VS clarity grade. They are set in 18 karat gold and platinum. The yellow diamonds each has a certificate from Gemological institute of America, #7199527 and #5672499.

A pair of platinum earrings by Kauffman de Suisse

Emerald cut Diamond Engagement Ring

A modern 18 karat white gold ring with diamond by Kauffman de Suisse. The ring is set with a emerald-cut diamond weighing 5.09 carats, flanked by sheild-shaped baguettes. Accompanied by GIA report no. 13564712 stating F color, VS1 clarity, no fluorescence. The emerald-cut diamonds have certificates from the Gemological Institute of America #13564712

Emerald cut Diamond Engagement Ring

A set of three 18kt gold, platinum and diamond bracelets, David Webb

A set of three American modern 18 karat gold and platinum bangle bracelets, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, by David Webb. The diamonds have a G-H color and VS clarity grade. This stylish set of bangles, when worn together, creates a playful interlocking design of polished gold dots and sparkling diamond dashes. The Madison Avenue workshops of the David Webb boutique, staffed by generations of artisan families, have been crafting glamorous, wearable jewels based on Webb''s bold and original designs since the 1940s.

A set of three 18kt gold, platinum and diamond bracelets, David Webb

René Boivin Paris Late 20th-Century Pearl Ruby Diamond and Gold Bracelet

A French 18 karat gold bracelet with pearls, rubies and diamonds by René Boivin. The bracelet has 22 Tahitian and South Sea pearls measuring approximately 10.03 to 8.48 mm, 46 cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of 7.60 carats, and 26 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats. A similar bracelet is pictured in René Boivin, by François Cailles, Quartet Books, 1994, page 375.

René Boivin Paris Late 20th-Century Pearl Ruby Diamond and Gold Bracelet

Diamond Gold and Cultured Pearl Necklace

An estate cultured round South Sea pearl necklace composed of 37 pearls measuring 12.50 mm to 10.75 mm. The strand is knotted on silk and finished with an 18 karat white gold diamond ball clasp.

Diamond Gold and Cultured Pearl Necklace

Sweeping Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

A French 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The sweeping brooch features 56 stunning F/G color and VVS/VS clarity diamonds graduating from .02 carat to .60 carat, with an approximate total weight of 7.75 carats. The piece also features 30 fantastically matched rubies approximate total weight of 3.10 carats, 24 clean emeralds approximate total weight 2.25 carats, and 9 blue sapphires, with the approximate total weight .85 carat. All framed by delicate twisted gold work.

Sweeping Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

Charm Bracelet by Cartier

A two-tone bracelet in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with charms by Cartier. The bracelet has five charms, a sapphire and diamond horseshoe, a diamond accented wrench, a pair of fully-articulated scissors, a house with emerald and sapphire accents and an affixed carved ruby tree, and a sapphire and emerald charm in a decorative motif. Collectively, the piece contains blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of .40 carat, emeralds with a total weight of .10 carat, a ruby with an approximate total weight of .6 carat and diamonds with a total weight of 0.75 carat.

Charm Bracelet by Cartier

Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond and Blue Enamel Ring

A French 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and blue enamel by Van Cleef & Arpels. The is ring has 13 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .65 carats.

Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond and Blue Enamel Ring

Gold, Ruby and Diamond Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels

A French 18 karat gold ring with ruby and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring centers on a square-cut ruby with an approximate weight of 1.40 carats. It also has 16 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carats.

Gold, Ruby and Diamond Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels

Gold Earrings with Diamonds

A pair of 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds. The earrings, which have an elegant, minimalist mid-century design, open to reveal 10 baguette diamonds in each. The earrings have a total of 20 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.40 carats, with G-H color and VS clarity.

Gold Earrings with Diamonds

French gold Brooch with turquoise, diamond and ruby by Janca

A French 18 karat gold brooch with turquoise, diamonds and rubies by Janca. The semicircular brooch radiates elegantly outward in a fan motif. Striations of textured gold and openwork are dotted with 12 rubies of approximate total weight of 1.2 carats and 7 diamonds of approximate total weight of .6 carat, while 31 turquoise cabochons decorate the base.

 French gold Brooch with turquoise, diamond and ruby by Janca

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Platinum and Gold "Angel Hair" Necklace

A French Mid-20 Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Angel Hair" necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The necklace has 26 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.10 carats. The "Angel Hair" necklace is designed as a highly flexible tapered band of gold fringe enhanced by a circular-cut diamond cross-over front detail. Pictured in Jewelry of the 1940''s and 1950''s, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1988, page 172.

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Platinum and Gold 'Angel Hair' Necklace

Platinum and Gold Necklace with Aquamarine and Diamonds

A platinum and 14 karat gold necklace with aquamarines and diamonds. The necklace has one kite-cut aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 17.39 carats, and a triangle aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats. The pendant is suspended from an 18.5" white gold chain that is set with 8 round-cut bezel-set diamonds that have the total weight of .45 carat.

Platinum and Gold Necklace with Aquamarine and Diamonds

Gold and Diamond Flower Brooch by Cartier

A French 18 karat gold flower brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The brooch is composed of highly textured carved foliate motifs and has 14 round-cut diamonds serving as an attractive center to the bloom. The stones have an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. Provenance: From the collection of Margaretta Fitler Murphy "Happy" Rockefeller

Gold and Diamond Flower Brooch by Cartier

Victorian Gold Bangle Bracelet with Rubies and Diamonds

A late Victorian gold bangle bracelet with rubies and diamonds. The bangle bracelet features a simple and elegant twisted rope design that is energized by the 7 beautifully matched rubies, approximately 2.00 carats total weight, and 14 old mine-cut diamonds set along the diagonal pattern, approximately 1.70 carats total weight.

Victorian Gold Bangle Bracelet with Rubies and Diamonds

Cartier Paris Ruby and Diamond Ring

A French 18 karat gold "Three-band" ring with diamonds and rubies by Cartier, Paris. The ring is designed as three fused bands pavé-set with 140 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.25 carats, centering an asymmetrical line of oblong cabochon rubies of superb color weighing approximately 4.00 total carats.

Cartier Paris Ruby and Diamond Ring

Diamond Studded Rose Gold Retro Bracelet

A 1940''s gold and diamond tank bracelet. Composed of a series of panel links, decorated with a course of circular-cut diamonds, mounted in 18 karat rose and white gold. The bracelet has 80 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.40 carats.

Diamond Studded Rose Gold Retro Bracelet

Rene Boivin Fishscale Design Bracelet Watch

An 18 karat gold and diamond bracelet "Fisch Scale" watch by René Boivin.The bombé band designed as a series of articulated "fishscale" links, set with 252 rose-cut diamonds interspersed with old mine, old European, and table-cut diamonds, approximate total weight of 42.25 carats, opening to reveal a circular watch signed Jaeger-Le Coultre. The bracelet is executed in Boivin''s famous fish-scale design, with angled, overlapping tiers of variously cut antique diamonds in a continuous motif concealing a watch. The elegant watch dial is covered by an invisibly hinged panel, creating a continuous elegant and functional design.

Rene Boivin Fishscale Design Bracelet Watch

Gold Ring with Diamonds and Lapis Lazuli by Cartier

A French 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. The sizable ring features a flat oblong crown, diagonally split between a sold piece of lapis lazuli and pavé-set diamonds. The ring has 18 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.65 carats. They are G/H color and VS clarity grade.

Gold Ring with Diamonds and Lapis Lazuli by Cartier

Cartier Diamond and 18kt Gold Brooch

A French 1950''s 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The highly stylized brooch appears to be caught in motion, as a bouquet of gold ribs makes an elegant, diamond-crowned arc before looping back upon itself, ultimately fanning out as it stretches downward, allowing for the significant diamond accents at the bottom of the brooch to each be displayed in full. The brooch has 23 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats. French Control Marks, Makers Mark.

Cartier Diamond and 18kt Gold Brooch

Gold and Platinum Earrings with Sapphires, Diamonds and Corals by David Webb

A pair of contemporary 18 karat gold and platinum earrings with sapphires, diamonds and coral by David Webb. Each earring centers one fluted carved cabochon sapphire measuring 11.95 X 10.00 mm, surrounded by a total of 40 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.90 carats, accented by fluted carved corals, with the earrings overall measuring 25 x 22.5 mm. Accompanied by original David Webb box.

Gold and Platinum Earrings with Sapphires, Diamonds and Corals by David Webb

Contemporary Platinum, Gold, Moonstone, Sapphire and Diamond Chain.

A contemporary platinum, 18 karat white gold, moonstone, sapphire and diamond long chain. Composed of 69 cabochon moonstones, approximate total weight 248 carats, interspersed with cabochon sapphires, approximate total weight 117 carats, and 49 sapphire beads, approximate total weight 55 carats, all mounted in platinum and joined by trace link chain, further highlighted by 7 pave-set round brilliant-cut diamond and sapphire boules.

Contemporary Platinum, Gold, Moonstone, Sapphire and Diamond Chain.

Marcus & Co. Early-20th Century Diamond, Natural Pearl, Platinum and Gold Ring

An American Early 20th Century platinum and 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and natural pearl by Marcus & Co. The ring has 3 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate weight of 1.25, 1.35 and 1.05 carats, L/M color, SI clarity respectively, and 10 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .10 carat. The center of this ring is a natural pearl measuring 7.91 x 7.86 mm. Gemological Institute of America Certificate stating natural saltwater pearl #2155277139. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother Wil ... liam was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.

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Marcus & Co. Early-20th Century Diamond, Natural Pearl, Platinum and Gold Ring

Gold, Diamond and Emerald Earrings by Graff

A pair of British Early 21st-Century 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds and emeralds by Graff. The compressed gold hoops feature 10 cabochon emeralds with an approximate total weight of 5.8 carats and are studded with an additional 78 VS clarity, G/H color round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.7 carats.

Gold, Diamond and Emerald Earrings by Graff

Portugese en Tramblant Diamond Silver and Gold Flower Brooch

A Portuguese Georgian style 18 karat gold and oxidized silver brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 250 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, and 23 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .50 carat. The blossoms of the brooch are en tremblant, in the Georgian style of floral brooches.

Portugese en Tramblant Diamond Silver and Gold Flower Brooch

Textured Gold Link Chain with Diamond Panels

A French Late 20th Century 18 karat gold convertible necklaces/ long chain, by Soubrenie et Bois, Paris, composed of freely shaped navette form links highlighted by round briliiant-cut diamonds, joined by shaped trace link chain, separable to form nesting necklaces. The necklace has 60 brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.00 carats. The firm of workmasters Soubrenie et Bois manufactured for such high style Parisian makers as Cartier, Boucheron and Fred.

Textured Gold Link Chain with Diamond Panels

Van Cleef & Arpels/Georges Lenfont Diamond and Gold Curb Link Necklace

A French 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels/Georges Lenfont. The necklace has 1400 round cut pave set diamonds with an approximate total weight of 47.00 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. The necklace is composed of 37 graduated curb links.

Van Cleef & Arpels/Georges Lenfont Diamond and Gold Curb Link Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Late-20th Century Diamond, Platinum and Gold Earrings

A pair of French Late-20th Century platinum and 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 104 circular-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats, E/F color, VS clarity. The earrings are designed as dimensional domed clusters. With signed Van Cleef & Arpels gray silk pouch.

Van Cleef & Arpels Late-20th Century Diamond, Platinum and Gold Earrings

French Late-20th Century Colombian Emerald Diamond Platinum and Gold Ring

A French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with emerald and diamonds. The ring has 18 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.55 carats, 32 square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.75 carats, and a cabochon emerald with an approximate weight of 3.35 carats. The emerald carries American Gemological Laboratory Certificate #69327 stating Natural Colombian with insignificant-minor treatment.

French Late-20th Century Colombian Emerald Diamond Platinum and Gold Ring

Cartier Paris Late-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Trinidad'' Link Necklace

A French late-20th Century 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds by Cartier. The necklace has round and square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, which compose the three diamond-set plaques on the brick chain necklace. The "Trinidad'' diamond necklace. With signed Cartier box and Cartier documentation.

Cartier Paris Late-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Trinidad'' Link Necklace

Chopard Geneva White Gold and Diamond Watch with Lapis Lazuli Face

A Swiss Late-20th Century 18 karat white gold watch with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Chopard. The watch has single-cut diamonds set around the dial and half-way down the bracelet with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, and a lapis lazuli dial which measures 25 mm in width and 20 mm in length. The overall watch case measures approximately 30 mm in width and 25 mm in length.

Chopard Geneva White Gold and Diamond Watch with Lapis Lazuli Face

Van Cleef & Arpels Late-20th Century Diamond and Gold Lion Head Door Knocker Earrings

A pair of Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold lion head earrings with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 30 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats. The earrings are designed as a lion mask supporting a diamond-set hoop.

Van Cleef & Arpels Late-20th Century Diamond and Gold Lion Head Door Knocker Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Pearl and Gold ''Star'' Necklace

A Late-20th Century 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds and pearls by Van Cleef & Arpels. The necklace has 231 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats, G-H color, VS clarity, and 21 cultured pearls ranging in size from 7.85 mm to 7.50 mm. The cultured pearls alternate with 21 diamond-set five pointed stars.

Van Cleef & Arpels  Diamond Pearl and Gold ''Star'' Necklace

Cartier Paris Late-20th Century Diamond Platinum and Gold Bracelet

An 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds by Cartier. The flexible woven gold bracelet has 104 round diamonds set in platinum with an approximate total weight of 7.00 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. With signed Cartier box.

Cartier Paris Late-20th Century Diamond Platinum and Gold Bracelet

Cartier Gold, Pearls and Diamond Earrings

A pair of French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with pearls and diamonds by Cartier. The earrings each center on an 8 mm Japanese cultured pearl, surrounded by a total of 74 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.5 carats.

Cartier Gold, Pearls and Diamond Earrings

Gold, Ruby and Diamond Earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels

A pair of French 18 karat gold hoop earrings with rubies and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The hoop earrings have 2 square cut rubes with an approximate total weight of .80 carats, and 60 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. With openwork and ribbing that mimics the shape of the sizably-cut rubies, and stones lining both the front and back faces of the hoops.

Gold, Ruby and Diamond Earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels

Gold Earrings with white and Fancy Colored Diamonds by René Boivin.

A pair of French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with white diamonds and fancy colored diamonds by René Boivin. The textured gold earrings are a wide open tear drop studded with variously-colored fancy diamonds. A large decorative ''X'' of gold and white diamonds encircles the bottom of the earring, making them fully dimensional. The earrings have 118 round brilliant-cut white and fancy color diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.40 carats.

Gold Earrings with white and Fancy Colored Diamonds by René Boivin.

Gold Necklace with Peridot and Diamonds by Henry Dunay

An 18 karat gold necklace with peridot and diamonds by Henry Dunay. The necklace has brushed gold curb links centering one heart-shaped peridot with an approximate total weight of 15.60 carats, 6 round brilliant-cut diamonds and 4 marquise-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. All are framed by bombé panels, supporting a concave spade-shaped bombé link, pavé-set with round diamonds approximately 3.00 carats.

Gold Necklace with Peridot and Diamonds by Henry Dunay

Bulgari Ruby and Diamond Earrings

A pair of Italian late-20th century 18 karat gold earrings with rubies and diamonds by Bulgari. Both the elegantly petite tops and the substantial drops of these earrings feature a hexagonal ruby of exceptional color framed by two plaques of brilliant-cut diamonds. The two major segments of the earring are joined by a stylized curb link also accented with white brilliant-cut diamonds, beautifully marrying the three design elements of the piece. The 2 larger rubies have the approximate total weight of 5.00 carats and the 2 smaller rubies have the approximate total weight 1.70 carats. The 90 round-cut diamonds have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats.

Bulgari Ruby and Diamond Earrings

Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Hoop Earrings

A pair of French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold and diamond hoop earrings by Van Cleef and Arpels. Four brilliant-cut diamonds accent each fluted ear clip. They have the approximate total weight of .80 carat, with a G/H color and VS clarity grade. 1-1/2'''' diameter

Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Hoop Earrings

Bulgari Diamond Accented Gold Chain

A Contemporary 18 karat gold chain with diamonds by Bulgari. The chain reflects the strength of Bulgari''s hallmark designs, with sleek, tightly-assembled gold curb links interspersed with sections of chain that are studded with diamonds. The chain has 192 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.76 carats.

Bulgari Diamond Accented Gold Chain

Gold Pendant Necklace with Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

A French 18 karat gold pendant necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris. The necklace is composed of triple bar links joined by multiple strands of oval trace link chains, highlighted by arched bars set with 35 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. suspending a detachable pendant of conforming design. The necklace has a detachable segment allowing it to be converted from 19" to 16". This necklace is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Van Cleef & Arpels. With its contemporary sensibility and soft flexibility, this necklace is unmistakably French modern. The dynamic geometric motifs are creatively extended and completed by the draping, flexible swags of trace link chains, while the smooth, polished gold is counterbalanced by the contrasting lines of brilliants.

Gold Pendant Necklace with Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Necklace

A Mid-20th century 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 184 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 14.70 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The necklace is designed in a diamond-set layered rope motif.

Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Necklace

Kutchinsky London Mid-20th Century Diamond, Gold and Platinum Ring

An English Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Kutchinsky, London. The Modernist ring has 26 round platinum-set diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.60 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. The ring is designed in an asymmetric modernist motif. Kutchinsky was considered London''s David Webb. They made stylish gold and diamond jewelry of very fine quality, as well as beautiful gem-set pieces.

Kutchinsky London Mid-20th Century Diamond, Gold and Platinum Ring

Tiffany & Co. Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Bracelet

An American Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with rubies and diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The flexible bracelet has 32 rubies with an approximate total weight of 8.30 carats, and 286 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.70 carats. The rubies are thought to be of Burmese origin with no heat treatment.

Tiffany & Co. Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Coral, Diamond and Gold ''Clematis'' ''Rose de Noel'' Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Clematis" brooch with diamonds and Mediterranean red coral by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 8 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carat forming the cluster center, surrounded by a yellow gold stamen, and 5 Mediterranean red coral petals. The flower has a polished gold stem and textured gold leaf. Of a similar motif as the ''Rose de Noel'' Collection. Circa 1960''s. A similar brooch is pictured in Living Jewels, by Ruth Peltason, Vendome Press, 2010, page 173.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Coral, Diamond and Gold ''Clematis'' ''Rose de Noel'' Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Bombé Ring

A Mid-20th century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The scalloped bombé ring has 7 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.25 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Bombé Ring

Boucheron Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Platinum and Gold Bombè Ring

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum bombé ring with diamonds by Boucheron. The ring has 38 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 7.65 carats, H/I color, VS clarity and 20 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, H-I color, VS clarity.

Boucheron Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Platinum and Gold Bombè Ring

Pierre Sterlé Mid-20th Century Diamond, Pearl and Platinum Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century platinum and 18 karat white gold brooch with diamonds and pearls by Pierre Sterlé. The brooch contains 300 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. There are 3 articulated South Sea pearls measuring 13.5 mm, 13.3 mm and 12.5 mm finishing the bottom. The brooch is designed as a tied bow composed of chevron-set diamond ribbons finished with the 3 diamond-capped South Sea pearls. A similar brooch is pictured in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, Editions Vecteurs, 1990, Plate 1273.

Pierre Sterlé Mid-20th Century Diamond, Pearl and Platinum Brooch

Mid-20th Century Diamond, Platinum and Gold Bracelet

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds. The flexible bracelet has 248 round-cut prong-set diamonds with an approximate total weight of 27.90 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The diamonds are set in flexible bullet-shaped sections.

Mid-20th Century Diamond, Platinum and Gold Bracelet

David Webb Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond and Gold Earrings

A pair of American Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with rubies and diamonds by David Webb. The earrings are composed of 3 leaves set with 48 round cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, and 18 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .72 carat. The foliate earrings are framed with twisted gold wire.

David Webb Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond and Gold Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century ''Two Feathers'' Diamond, Gold and Platinum Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ''Two Feathers'' brooch has 41 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.35 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. This brooch was first introduced in 1954 and has become an iconic piece for Van Cleef & Arpels. Similar pictured in Set in Style The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, with contributions by Suzy Menkes (and) Ruth Peltason, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 221 (Similar). The pictured ''Two Feathers'' brooch is made in platinum, Mystery-set sapphires and diamonds,

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century ''Two Feathers'' Diamond, Gold and Platinum Brooch

Marianne Ostier Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Earrings

A pair of 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds by Marianne Ostier. The earrings contain 32 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.60 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The earrings are composed of twisted gold wire forming a cone shape which is topped with a cluster of diamonds. "A Collection of Jewelry, Designed by Marianne Ostier Ostier, Inc., one of New York''s leading jewelers dealing precious-stone jewelry of original design and superb custom craftsmanship, was closed in September of this year [1969], following the death of its co-founder, Oliver Ostier. The present sale offers the entire stock of this distinguished firm. All pieces are original designs of Marianne Ostier, co-founder with her late husband of the firm and an internationally famed designer of jewelry. "Of the decision to close the business, Marianne Ostier said: With the passing of my husband, I have had to devote more and more of my efforts to administrative duties. These demands of my time can no longer be met without artistic compromise which to me is unacceptable. "Representing the third generation of court jewelers in Austria, Oliver Ostier came to America following the Anschluss of 1938. Shortly thereafter he founded the firm of Ostier, Inc., with his wife Marianne, a talented painter and sculptress as well as an artist in the design of jewelry. Author of Jewels and the woman , the ... basic primer of the art of wearing jewelry, Marianne Ostier''s designs became major jewelry fashions and classics of modern designed jewelry. She is responsible for numerous innovations, such as the pincushion clip, the famed skin pin and free-form jewelry; she pioneered in abstract designs for jewelry and, as a sculptress, brought a new dimension to her work in jewelry design. For many years, Mrs. Ostier won the Diamond U.S.A. Award and the Diamond International Award for design excellence. The first life-time member elected to the Diamonds-International Academy, the hall of fame for modern jewelry designers, she represented the United States at the Art in Precious Jewelry exhibition at the Finch College Museum of Art in 1966, which featured the work of the foremost designers of ten countries. Among the artists, in addition to Mrs. Ostier, were Georges Braques and Salvador Dali."

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Marianne Ostier Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Bombé Ring

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ring with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring has 31 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.48 carats. The ring is composed in a modernist flame motif which centers on the diamond set bombé crown.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Bombé Ring

Italian Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Necklace

An Italian Mid-20th Century 18 karat white gold necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 138 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 11.04 carats, G/H color and VS clarity. The necklace is designed as a series of three rows of diamond-set blossoms.

Italian Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Necklace

Sterlé Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Natural Pearl and Gold Ring

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat white gold ring with diamonds and natural pearl by Pierre Sterlé. The ring has 90 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and a natural pearl measuring 8.35 mm carats. The ring is designed as a dimensional swirl culminating with the natural pearl.

Sterlé Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Natural Pearl and Gold Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Modernist Brooch

A French 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 23 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.30 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in a modernist motif of ''krinkled'' hammered gold, with one section of the brooch platinum and diamond-set.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Modernist  Brooch

David Webb Mid-20th Century Diamond Gold and Platinum Ring

An American Mid-20th Century gold and platinum ring with diamonds by David Webb. The ring has a bezel-set Asscher-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2,55 carats, H/I color, VS clarity, and 12 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. The ring exemplifies the distinctive Webb style of ''''big and bold". Discussed in David Webb The Quintessential American Jeweler, by Ruth Peltason, Assouline, 2013.

David Webb Mid-20th Century Diamond Gold and Platinum Ring

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Comprehensive Set of Gold, Gem Set and Hard Stone Baton Cuff Links

A very comprehensive set of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold cuff links with interchangeable hard stone bars (batons) by Cartier Paris. The cuff links'' connecting mounts consist of the following: 18 karat yellow gold polished mounts #6864463; 18 karat white gold polished mounts #672759; diamond-set 18 karat yellow gold mounts with 44 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.32 carats, #686073; ruby-set 18 karat yellow gold mounts with 48 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.92 carats #641343; 18 karat yellow gold polished mounts with blue enamel #663206; and 18 karat yellow gold polished mounts with green enamel #686049. The interchangeable batons consist of hematite, 18 karat yellow gold ribbed, 18 karat white gold ribbed, green chrysophrase, coral, amber, malachite, wood, rock crystal, 18 karat yellow polished gold, 18 karat white polished gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise and onyx. With original Cartier signed fitted epi leather boxes and travel boxes. "Classic motifs--the button, the baton, the coin appeal to designers of every era because of their proportions, simplicity, and ease of use." Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson in Cuff Links. Discussed and similar pictured in Cuff Links, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Harry N. Abrams, Inc. Publishers, New York, 1991, page 91-92. Circa 1960''s. Signed, "Cartier" "016598" French control marks.

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Comprehensive Set of Gold, Gem Set and Hard Stone Baton Cuff Links

Mid-20th Century Modernist Diamond and Gold Dress Set

An American Mid-20th Century 14 karat white gold dress set with diamonds. The dress set has 6 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .40 carat. The dress set consists of a pair of cuff links and 4 dress studs designed in a highly stylized Modernist Mid-20th Century motif.

Mid-20th Century Modernist Diamond and Gold Dress Set

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Gold and Platinum Fringe Necklace

A French Mid-20th Century 18kt gold and platinum necklace with diamonds by Cartier. The necklace has 148 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The necklace is designed in a foliate fringe motif with diamond set platinum articulated ''leaves''. With signed Cartier box.

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Gold and Platinum Fringe Necklace

Cartier Mid-20th Century Turquoise, Diamond and Gold Cocktail/Dinner Ring

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds and turquoise by Cartier. The asymmetrical bombé form centers 46 cabochon turquoises edged by gadrooned gold wiretwist and round brilliant-cut diamond shoulders pavé-set with 52 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.70 carats, completed by a ribbed shank. Circa 1956. A similar ring set with faceted sapphires is pictured in Amazing Cartier, Jewelry Design Since 1937, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion Publishers, 2008, page 165. Often worn two or three to a hand, these bold, luxurious and colorful "cocktail" rings were the perfect expression of women''s post-World War II war social and expressive freedom. Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, the eternally stylish creative director, Cartier produced a variety of these at once playful and sensual jewels.

Cartier Mid-20th Century Turquoise, Diamond and Gold Cocktail/Dinner Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond, Emerald and Gold Ring

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and emeralds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring has 15 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats, F/G color, VS clarity, and 38 round, calibre- and emerald-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond, Emerald and Gold Ring

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Pink Coral ''Philippine'' Ring

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Philippine" ring with diamonds and pink coral by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring is bombé shaped and has 18 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .48 carat set between two pink coral shoulders. "The Philippine ring was created in 1968 and is made of a slender reed turned back on itself, encrusted with brilliants at the center and various hard stones in the shank." Pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli International, 1987, page 144.

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Pink Coral ''Philippine'' Ring

Cartier London Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Coffee Bean'' Brooch

An English Mid-20th Century flower-shaped 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier London. The brooch has 4 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .28 carat. The flower is composed of deeply engraved overlapping leaves leading to the diamond flowers. From the iconic Cartier ''Coffee Bean'' Collection.

Cartier London Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Coffee Bean'' Brooch

Cartier Paris Retro ''Step'' Diamond and Gold Ring

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Cartier. The polished yellow gold ring has 35 platinum set round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.50 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. Innovative design is a Cartier trademark. This ring has a diamond step motif on one side and a gold fan motif on the other, creating an illusion of two entirely different rings depending upon the perspective of the viewer. With signed Cartier box.

Cartier Paris Retro ''Step'' Diamond and Gold Ring

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Flower Brooch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished gold brooch with diamonds by Bulgari. The brooch has 90 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.50 carats H/I color, VS clarity. The dimensional, openwork brooch is designed in a floral motif.

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Flower Brooch

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Swirl'' Brooch

An Italian Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Bulgari. The brooch has 87 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in an openwork dimensional swirl motif.

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Swirl'' Brooch

Omega Retro Gold and Diamond Covered Watch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold watch bracelet with diamonds by Omega. The polished gold watch bracelet is composed of 10 flexible ridged bombé sections. The cover of the watch has a center flower medallion with 8 round-cut diamonds weighing approximately .45 carat total weight.

Omega Retro Gold and Diamond Covered Watch

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Earrings

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum earrings with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 32 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The hoop earrings are composed of dimensional overlapping diamond-set and deeply-textured leaves.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Earrings

Gübelin Swiss Mid-20th Century Diamond Sapphire and Gold Flower Brooch

A Swiss Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished gold brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Gübelin. The flower brooch has 13 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.08 carats, and 35 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. The brooch is designed in a dimensional flower motif.

Gübelin Swiss Mid-20th Century Diamond Sapphire and Gold Flower Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Capillaire'' Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ''Capillaire'' brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 74 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, E/F/G color, VS clarity. A similar brooch is pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, The Art of High Jewelry, by Evelyne Posseme, editor, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 152.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Capillaire'' Brooch

French Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby and Gold Bird Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with ruby and diamonds. The brooch has 1 cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of .02 carat, and 5 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .35 carat. The brooch is designed as a dimensional bird of paradise perched on a branch.

French Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby and Gold Bird Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Sapphire ''''Lawn" Bracelet

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Lawn" bracelet with diamonds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Lawn" bracelet, designed as a bed of "couscous" beads scattered with sapphire and diamond blossoms, is set with 58 round-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 61 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats. Dating from the late 1940s/early 1950s, this chic bracelet represents the spirit of post-war rejuvenation and easy glamor. Sometimes worn two to a wrist, these bold bracelets defined the relaxed elegance of cocktail hour and women''s renewed social freedom. Its domed form, topped with playful beads, is scattered with richly colored sapphire and diamond blossoms, presenting a complex visual and tactile texture, and combining organic appeal with a sculptural quality. The master jeweler workshop that realized VCA''s design was Pery et Fils, who famously collaborated with the house on the Duchess of Windsor''s "Zipper" necklace and the "Passe Partout" convertible jewels. This bracelet''s superb construction, with its exquisitely articulated, myriad micro-springs and hinges, is a creation of a lost jeweler''s art and is supremely flexible, soft and comfortable to wear. A similar "Lawn" bracelet pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1986, page 236.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Sapphire ''''Lawn' Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Hoop Earrings

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The hoop earrings have 48 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.28 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. The earrings are composed in a twisted scallop motif topped with diamonds.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Hoop Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby Sapphire and Gold "Hawaii" Brooch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat and platinum gold ''Hawaii'' brooch with diamonds, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 15 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats, 10 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and 36 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. This stylized spray of blossoms and leaves is part of Van Cleef''s celebrated "Hawaii" series, designed as "naive, loose bunches of flowers" meant to capture the post-war spirit of liberation and rejuvenation. With Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity stating: "According to a visual appraisal and to the Van Cleef & Arpels Archives, the item illustrated and described below bearing the engraved numbers NY22818.2...the item illustrated and described has been identified as a Van Cleef & Arpels creation." "A ''Hawaii'' clip set with round diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Mounted in platinum, yellow gold and white gold. 1954."

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby Sapphire and Gold 'Hawaii' Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond Gold and Platinum Bracelet

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet has 165 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 15.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The bracelet is designed in a flexible honeycomb motif.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond Gold and Platinum Bracelet

French Gold and Platinum Ring with Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring has 27 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.30 carats with a VS clarity and G-H color grade.

French Gold and Platinum Ring with Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

Gold and Diamond Tank Bracelet by Cartier

An English Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds by Cartier. The bracelet is comprised of textured gold links and diamond-encrusted raised platinum joints. The piece has a total of 126 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.20 carats. With original Cartier box.

Gold and Diamond Tank Bracelet by Cartier

Gold and Platinum Brooch with Diamonds by Tiffany & Co.

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The flower brooch has six unique, blooming petals studded with diamonds and framed with textured gold. The piece has 73 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.00 carats with a F/G color and VS clarity grade.

Gold and Platinum Brooch with Diamonds by Tiffany & Co.

Gold Bracelet with Diamonds

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold bracelet with diamonds. The bracelet has two strands of rope chain with diamond bar accents. There are a total of 76 round single and mixed diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.25 carats.

Gold Bracelet with Diamonds

"Sombrero" Brooch by Schlumberger

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Sombrero" brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Schlumberger for Tiffany and Co. The brooch has round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.95 carats, and round- and oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 12.00 carats. Made in France, with French assay and maker''s marks

'Sombrero' Brooch by Schlumberger

Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Earrings

A pair of platinum- and gold-set diamond and ruby earrings by Boucheron. The earrings, housed in their original box from the mid-20th century, center on a semicircular raised cluster of 32 remarkably well matched rubies, total approximate weight 4.60 carats, surrounded by 30 round brilliant and 16 marquise-cut diamonds, approximate total weight 6.10 carats., mounted in platinum and 18 karat gold. The House of Boucheron was founded in 1858 by the young entrepreneur M. Frederic Boucheron, whose charming, generous nature and taste for daring design and superb gems attracted both the aristocracy and celebrities to his Paris salon. These bombé earclips, each composed of a tightly-set cluster of brilliant, rich red rubies within a scintillating diamond surround, represent a modern example of this classic French jeweler''s art.

Boucheron Ruby and Diamond Earrings

American Gold Brooch with Enamel, Diamonds and Coral, attributed to Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.

An American mid-20th Century 18 karat yellow gold brooch with enamel, diamonds and coral, attributed to Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. The brooch has a cabochon coral face with black enamel eyes, turquoise enamel dress, and 16 round brilliant-cut diamonds, with total approximate weight of 0.55 carats, sprinkled through the figure''s hair. The brooch measures approximately 2.75" in length and 1" in width.

American Gold Brooch with Enamel, Diamonds and Coral, attributed to Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.

Van Cleef and Arpels 1950''s Charm Bracelet

A French Mid-20th Century "Four Seasons" 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with rubies, emeralds, sapphires, citrines and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet from which the charms hang is attractively comprised of two-part links that appear to be bound by twisted gold cord, providing a compelling aesthetic base for the four charms. Each charm depicts a scene that encapsulates the beauty of one of the four seasons, framed by the same twisted gold motif featured in the chain of the bracelet. The winter charm features holly leaves studded with ruby and emerald berries; the spring scene shows two sapphire bluebirds watching the sunrise on an emerald and diamond leafed branch; the summer scene captures a sapphire and diamond sailboat sailing into the sunset; and the fall scene is comprised of three small citrine birds perched on a textured park bench. Each of the charms and the bracelet itself are signed Van Cleef and Arpels. Each charm is 1-1/4" diameter The length of the bracelet is 8"

Van Cleef and Arpels 1950''s Charm Bracelet

Gold Ring with Diamonds and Emeralds by Marchak

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and emeralds by Marchak. The leaves of this ring are framed with 81 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.10 carats with a VS clarity and G/H color grade. The leaves center on 4 oval cabochon emeralds with an approximate total weight of 20.20 carats. Ring size 6-1/2. With original drawing. Born in 1854 in a poverty-stricken area of Kiev, Joseph Marchak sold his own clothing at age 10 to pay the fees associated with becoming a jeweler''s apprentice. Fourteen years after beginning that apprenticeship, Marchak used the dowry from his young bride to open his own small shop in the neighborhood in which he was born. Within a year, he had upgraded to a full maison on the Kreshchatyk, Kiev''s main street of luxury retail. Marchak quickly drew the attention of Tsar Nicholas II, who traveled to Kiev to have Marchak design gifts to be given to his family celebrating the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. Seemingly overnight, Marchak had become the most highly sought-after and highly celebrated luxury maker in Russia, easily rivaling even Fabergé. But Marchak was also widely recognized abroad, winning a prestigious medal at the World''s Fair in Chicago in 1893, and another in Antwerp in 1894. Dubbed the "Cartier of Kiev," Marchak, his family and his workshop fled Russia at the outset of World War I and ... landed in Paris, where they established another successful workshop and storefront on the Rue de la Paix. The Marchak family continued to make exquisite and highly stylized treasure that defied commonplace trends well through the mid 20th Century.

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Gold Ring with Diamonds and Emeralds by Marchak

John Rubel Ruby, Diamond, Turquoise Clip Brooch and Earrings Suite

An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu ... e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.

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John Rubel Ruby, Diamond, Turquoise Clip Brooch and Earrings Suite

Van Cleef and Arpels Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Earrings

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ear clips by Van Cleef and Arpels with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. The 12 round-cut diamonds have the approximate total weight of 1.68 carats and the approximate total weight of the 24 round sapphires and rubies is 2.00 carats. Dating from the 1950s, these stylish earclips represent the spirit of joyful post-war rejuvenation and easy glamor. They belong to a chic and original VCA collection of bold, colorful jewelry, informally named "couscous", which exemplified the relaxed elegance of cocktail hour and women''s renewed social freedom. The domed, voluminous forms, topped with playful beads, center richly colored, gemmy blossoms, combining organic appeal with a sculptural quality. The ear clips are precisely modeled to hug the ear close to the face.

Van Cleef and Arpels Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Emerald Cluster Earrings

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds and emeralds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings feature a cluster of round-cut diamonds, each framed by delicate twisted rope design in gold, arranged in a raised boule shape, accented, as a fresh bloom would be, by three pointed leaves comprised of the same twisted rope design in gold and square-cut emeralds. The earrings have 34 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.30 carats and 30 emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats.

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Emerald Cluster Earrings

Cartier Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Bracelet

A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold bangle with lapis lazuli and diamonds by Cartier, Paris. The bracelet is composed of 13 melon-carved lapis beads completed by a scroll and arch design platinum-topped 18 karat gold and clasp, highlighted by 23 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carat. This bold and playful bangle''s chunky lapis beads, subtly gleaming with golden pyrite, are pleasantly offset off by its sparkling abstract-form diamond clasp, cleverly designed to be put on and taken off with a minimum of fuss. Carved bead bracelets of coral and hardstones were a personal favorite of Jeanne Toussaint, the artistic director of Cartier Paris for half of the 20th century and one of the era''s great tastemakers.

Cartier Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Bracelet

White and Yellow Gold Earrings with Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat white and yellow gold earrings with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The two earrings together have 76 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.20 carats that form a spiral. They have a G/H color and VS clarity grade. These earrings are part of the "Angel Hair" collection.

White and Yellow Gold Earrings with Diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels Bagatelle Ring

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold, sapphire, ruby and diamond "Bagatelle" ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York. The bombé form features a ruby, sapphire and diamond "Hawaii" floral motif: 6 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of .66 carat, 13 round-cut rubies of approximately 1.40 carats, and 9 round-cut diamonds of approximately 1.15 carats. Dating from the 1950s, this chic ring represents the spirit of post-war rejuvenation and easy glamor. Sometimes worn two to a hand, these bold, domed rings expressed the relaxed elegance of cocktail hour and women''s renewed social freedom. The bombé form, topped with playful beads, is scattered with richly colored, gemmy flowers, combining organic appeal with a sculptural quality. The ring''s volume is perfectly distributed and sits balanced on the hand.

Van Cleef & Arpels Bagatelle Ring

Three Gold, Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelets by Van Cleef & Arpels

A set of three French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold bracelets with round-cut sapphires, rubies and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels, France. The bracelets are set with 13 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 14 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 2.10 carats, and 14 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.24 carats. The bracelets are able connect together to be worn as a necklace. This trio of chunky, gem-set rope twist bracelets represents a classic form of the 1960s by Van Cleef & Arpels, the renowned Parisian-American jewelers who have been in the forefront of glamour and imaginative design since their founding in the early 20th century. A sleek, beautifully-modeled set, highlighted by bold sparkles of color, these three bracelets nestle comfortably together on the wrist for a look of casual glamour.

Three Gold, Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelets by Van Cleef & Arpels

French Napoleon III Diamond Silver and Gold Brooch

A French Napolean III 18 karat gold and oxidized silver brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 163 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.40 carats. Designed with double festoon and floral motifs.

French Napoleon III Diamond Silver and Gold Brooch

Hunt & Roskell London Antique Diamond, Pearl, Gold and Enamel Bracelet

An Antique English 18 karat gold, diamond, natural pearl and enamel hinged bracelet by Hunt & Roskell of London. The bracelet features 84 old mine- and rose-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 2.70 carats. The natural pearl center plaque of the bracelet is removable and can be worn as a brooch. The center pearl measures 8.55 mm. with 4 additional pearls that measure 5.9 mm. With original brooch attachments and original signed fitted box. Selected as jewelers and goldsmiths to Her Majesty in the 1840s, Hunt & Roskell of New Bond Street were prominent participants in the Crystal Palace Exhibition of 1851, the first of the competitive international expositions that provided dynamic impetus to creativity and accomplishment in the fine and decorative arts. Their work ran from glamorous (diamond and gem-set tiaras convertible into necklaces) to exotic (bracelets set with rare Indian portrait diamonds), and they were owners for a time of the legendary Hope blue diamond. In keeping with the firm''s tradition of versatility, this chic bracelet, with its creamy natural pearls set off by sparkling antique-cut diamonds, conceals a brooch fitting under the velvet interior of its original morocco leather box.

Hunt & Roskell London Antique Diamond, Pearl, Gold and Enamel Bracelet

Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum Link Bracelet

A French Art Deco 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet with blue sapphires and diamonds. The bracelet has 8 open link sections with 64 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.60 carats, and 32 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carat, H/I color, VS clarity. The sections are connected with 8 links of 25 French-cut blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.25 carats.

Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum Link Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Turquoise, Diamond and Gold ''Grain of Rice'' Bracelet

A French Mid-20th Century 18-karat gold bracelet with turquoise and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet has 30 cabochon turquoise stones, and 30 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.00 carats. The bracelet is from the ''Grain of Rice'' collection. Pictured in Jewelry of the 1940''s and 1950''s, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli International, 1987, p.129, Plate #2.

Van Cleef & Arpels Turquoise, Diamond and Gold ''Grain of Rice'' Bracelet

George Verger French Retro Diamond, Ruby, Rose Quartz, Platinum and Gold Bracelet Cuff

An important French Retro, 18-karat rose gold bangle bracelet with diamonds, rubies, and rose quartz, by Verger Frères. The hinged bangle bracelet is designed with terminals of rose quartz sphere clusters, each set with circular-cut rubies, approximate total weight 1.65 carats, flanked by old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats, further highlighted by calibré-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1 carat. The Verger workshop was a successful, behind-the-scenes force creating jewels for Boucheron, Cartier, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Unlike those of many manufacturing jewelers, who merely produced work to order, Verger''s own original designs were particularly valued and sought after by these great Parisian Maison. Verger are known for their magnificent clocks featuring strongly defined shapes, stylized lines and global inspiration. For the Haute Joaillerie he created elaborate fancies of form and color contrast, as we see here in this important rose gold bracelet.

George Verger French Retro Diamond, Ruby, Rose Quartz, Platinum and Gold Bracelet Cuff

French Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour, Diamond, and Pearl Pendant/Brooch

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamond and pearl brooch. The brooch centers a relief portrait of a young woman with flowing hair among flowering vines on a plique-a-jour enamel ground with foliate old mine and rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.25 carat, suspending a freshwater pearls. With French assay mark.

French Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour, Diamond, and Pearl Pendant/Brooch

Marsh Mid-20th Century Steel and Pearl Dress Set

A Mid-20th Century patinated steel and gold dress set with cultured pearls by G.T. Marsh. The full dress set is composed of double sided cuff links, three dress studs and two dress buttons. The set is in a square geometric step motif with a pearl at the center. In the original signed Marsh box. G.T. Marsh & Co. was a San Francisco-based Asian art dealer known for their distinctive jewels. As a boy infatuated with Asian culture, George Turner Marsh apprenticed with a Japanese tea merchant, remaining there alone while his Australian family continued on to San Francisco, where they settled. Young George used his time in Yokohama to become conversant in Japanese art and aesthetics, and after re-joining his family, established an Asian art gallery using the expertise he had acquired. During the 1930s, 40s and 50s, his family began designing jewelry based on their interpretation of masterful Japanese metalwork together with the favored gems of the region, jadeite, coral and pearls. The firm''s unique steel jewelry was produced by bluing and sandblasting techniques, which gave the metal its matte finish, an extraordinary base for its sparkling, gleaming gems. "Marsh had a jeweler that worked exclusively for them. He was Italian, but he also liked shotguns and, because of his interest in shotguns, he had an interest in iron and metallurgy and what they did to rifles and shotguns t ... o keep them from rusting. And the Marsh''s jewelry is steel that''s been treated with gun bluing. He sandblasted the steel before he gun blued it, that gives it this marvelous matte finish. And nowadays I don''t think there is anything more chic than the idea of black jewelry where the diamonds and the white gold absolutely pop and these marvelous pearls that he suspended have motion...The firm closed its doors in 2001." Barry Weber on the Antiques Road Show.

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Marsh Mid-20th Century Steel and Pearl Dress Set

David Webb Mid-20th Century Diamond, Platinum, Gold, and Enamel Earrings

A pair of American Mid-Century platinum, 18 karat gold, enamel and diamond earrings by David Webb. The earrings feature polished gold strips and black enamel alternating with inset rows of 40 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.

David Webb Mid-20th Century Diamond, Platinum, Gold, and Enamel Earrings

David Webb Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby and Turquoise Earrings

A pair of American Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ear clips with diamonds, rubies and turquoise. The earrings have 94 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, 32 cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of 4.10 carats, and 24 cabochon turquoise stones.

David Webb Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby and Turquoise Earrings

Kurt Wayne Late-20th Century Diamond and Gold Shell Earrings

A pair of American Estate 18 karat gold and diamond earrings by Kurt Wayne, designed in a shell motif with pavé-set round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.

Kurt Wayne Late-20th Century Diamond and Gold Shell Earrings

Edwardian Diamond and Natural Seed Pearl Chien de Colliar Necklace

An Edwardian platinum and 15 karat gold collier de chien necklace with diamonds and seed pearls. The necklace is composed of 12 strands of freshwater seed pearls that are connected together with four diamond spacers set with 56 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.80 carats.

Edwardian Diamond and Natural Seed Pearl Chien de Colliar Necklace

Fine French Retro Diamond and Gold Tubogas Necklace

A European Retro 14 karat gold "tubogas" necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 18 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.08 carats. The diamond-set center section is mounted between two twisted screw-shaped capitals.

Fine French Retro Diamond and Gold Tubogas Necklace

French Retro Gold and Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Necklace

A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum necklace with diamonds and sapphires. The necklace has 74 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, and 66 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats. The necklace is designed with stylized twisted gold leaves interspersed with a row of diamonds alternating with a row of sapphires. The front of the necklace is suspended by two woven gold chains with a twisted leaf motif clasp.

French Retro  Gold and Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Necklace

Mellerio dits Meller French Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Necklace Bracelet and Tiara

A French Mid-20th Century platinum and diamond necklace/tiara by Mellerio dits Meller. The necklace is composed of 200 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 44.25 carats, and 200 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 45.75 carats. Approximate total carat weight is 90.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The triple row necklace is formed of two outer rows of round-cut diamonds and a center row of baguette diamonds. The necklace separates forming a separate bracelet. The tiara frame is decorated with 7 round cut pastes. Mellerio fitted box. Mellerio dits Meller, the French jewelry house, was founded in 1613, and is still active today. "With jewelry for Marie-Antoinette, brooches for Princess Mathilde and tiaras for the court of the Netherlands, some of the biggest names in European royal history have cameos in the history of Mellerio dits Meller. The story of this jeweler to kings and queens has been written in gold and precious stones ever since Marie de Medicis lent her support to the house in 1613." Vincent Meylan, Mellerio historian.

Mellerio dits Meller French Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Necklace Bracelet and Tiara

French Art Nouveau Gold Enamel, Diamond, Peridot and Plique-à-Jour ''Juliet'' Pendant

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant with diamonds, pearls and peridots. The pendant features a plique-à-jour background with rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, 3 freshwater pearls and 3 pear and round-cut peridots with enamel decoration surrounding the profile of Juliet. Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.

French Art Nouveau Gold Enamel, Diamond, Peridot and Plique-à-Jour ''Juliet'' Pendant

Art Nouveau Gold, Diamond and Enamel ''Winged Nymph'' Locket

An Art Nouveau 14 karat gold and enamel pendant locket with diamonds. The pendant is decorated with 10 old mine- and single-cut diamonds with the approximate total weight of .30 carats. The relief cover depicts a winged nymph blowing two horns. Engraved in script, "BJ June 29, 1904" on back cover. Chain is a later period addition. Pictured in Masterpieces of American Jewelry, by Judith Price, Echo Point Books & Media, LLC, 2004, page 28.

Art Nouveau Gold, Diamond and Enamel ''Winged Nymph'' Locket

Antique Diamond and Sapphire Cluster Ring

An English Antique 15 karat gold/silver top ring with sapphire and diamonds. The ring centers on a no heat oval-cut sapphire with an approximate weight of .95 carat, 14 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats, and 19 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .19 carat. Designed in a classic oval cluster motif.

Antique Diamond and Sapphire Cluster Ring

Marcus & Company Art Nouveau Blue Sapphire, Old European Diamond, Gold and Enamel Ring

An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, enamel, sapphire and diamond ring by Marcus & Co. The ring has a cushion-cut blue sapphire with an approximate weight of 8.65 carats, and 27 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .32 carat. The blue sapphire is most likely of Ceylon origin with no heat treatment evident. The center stone is held in place with gold tendrils that flow throughout the ring in extravagant Art Nouveau motifs. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl conn ... oisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.

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Marcus & Company Art Nouveau Blue Sapphire, Old European Diamond, Gold and Enamel Ring