An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold stick pin with enameling and black opal by Marcus & Co. The stick pin has a cabochon opal surrounded with four enamel side sections decorated with gold relief arabesque designs. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and
their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.
An Art Nouveau brooch with pearls, diamonds and emerald by Marcus & Co. The brooch has 10 semi-spherical pearls, 15 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.25 carats and a polished emerald drop. Gemological Institute of America certificate #2171449596 states the pearls are natural saltwater button pearls. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-se
en black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.
An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail.The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black
opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A French Art Nouveau silver cloak clasp with opals by Georges Fouquet. The cape clasp is decorated with 14 bezel-set crystal opal plaques. The clasp is designed as two intertwined peacocks with extravagant whiplash ''feathers''. Inspired by a noted collaboration with the renowned Art Nouveau innovator Alfonse Mucha, this cloak clasp in all its exquisite detail and voluptuous lines perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the period. Its peacock theme was a favorite motif of Fouquet and Mucha. A similar piece is pictured in Alastair Duncan''s, The Paris Salons, 1895-1914: Volume I, Antique Collectors'' Club, Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1994, page 251.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, platinum and enamel brooch with pearl and diamonds. The brooch has a Baroque pearl measuring approximately 20 mm x 7.15 mm, and 5 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .55 carat. The brooch is designed in the classic floral/whiplash Art Nouveau motif.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and platinum pendant brooch with diamonds and freshwater pearl. A remarkable early use of platinum, this Art Nouveau pendant features intricate, sinuous scrolls of gold in a psuedo-Celtic design, terminating in blooming branches of diamond-studded platinum. These rose cut diamonds have the approximate total weight of .20 carat. The piece features one old European-cut center diamond that has the approximate weight of .25 carat and a hanging 3.5mm freshwater pearl drop. Attributed to Maurice Dufrène
Signed: French Control Mark
Dimensions: Chain Length 19". Pendant 2" length x 1-1/2" width.
"L''Anémone des Bois", A French Art Nouveau masterwork by René Lalique. Created in 1897, this 18 karat gold brooch showcases Lalique''s mastery of "plique-à-jour" enamel and also represents one of his earliest explorations of the art of molded glass. The brooch is accented by two oval faceted aquamarines weighing approximately 8.10 and 3.75 carats. More than any technical mastery or gemological import, the brooch is distinguished by its aesthetics and its deep meaning. This exquisite "Anémones des Bois" Brooch is an important example of René Lalique''s early work, predating his international debut at the Exposition Universelle of 1900. While his most prolific version of the anemone motif was the "Anémone couronnée" or poppy anemone, only a few choice pieces depict the "Anémone des Bois" or wood anemone. Unlike the poppy anemone, which grew in the balmy Mediterranean summer, the Anémone des Bois was known to the French as the harbinger of spring. While the forest floor lay dormant, the wood anemone alone reared its small head. Areas where the poor could pick this humble flower were demarcated with signs reading "Les Halles." The Anémone des Bois lined the border of the forest, enticing promenading couples into the forest''s embrace for an afternoon tryst. Pure white anemones thus became a symbol of virginal purity, mourning its imminent profanity by carnal desire. Lalique
knew these traditions well from spending his childhood and summer holidays in the commune of Aÿ in Marne, located on a plateau overlooking the hillsides of Champagne. Two forests dominated the Marne landscape. To the west lay the old-growth forest of Sermiers, and to the east lay La forêt domaniale du Chêne à la Vierge. Promenading in the forest was a popular Sunday pastime for locals, especially as a way to escape the unrelenting dry heat of the noonday sun. Lalique expanded upon the theme of carnal desire, using the anemone to allegorize the stages of courtship. Our Anémone des Bois marked the beginning of this five-year-long exploration. With its petals slightly closed, the flower embodies the initial "rejet" or rejection of love. Fitting of a depiction of "rejet" the work epitomizes divine symmetry and youthful vigor. The flower''s posture relates to local wisdom: villagers could tell rain was coming when the Anémone des Bois closed its petals. By closing its petals, the flower rebuffs the words and sexual advances of the man. The second anemone in the series has its petals in disarray but receptive to potential pollination. An anemone in this position embodied "l''acceptation de l''amour" or the acceptance of love. The third anemone is the most sensual of the series, two anemones approach a passionate kiss, embodying the "consommation" or consummation. The final anemone in the series was completed in 1901. Titled "Mort de l''anémone" it is Lalique''s only representation of the blue anemone. Through the consummation, its petals have been dyed and its purity defiled. In macabre detail, the skeletal structure of the anemone''s rhizomes, or underground stems, are put on full view. The plant has been uprooted, and the encounter has finished. Contemporary novelist Émile Pouvillon related the death of the anemone to the act of deflowering in his 1895 short story "Les Anémones sont Mortes." The story''s heroine, a young country girl, loses herself in a bout of unrestrained euphoria with her lover. In their rolling about, "Anémones des Bois" are ripped out and bruised. At the 1898 Salon, the first Anémone des Bois was a critical triumph. Displayed with the second and third anemone in the series, the first was favored for its fully articulated plique-à-jour leaves. In the premier French decorative arts magazine Art et Décoration, the Anémone des Bois was praised for its "candid whiteness" and leaves that suggest "an infinitely complicated and precious architecture."Our Anémone des Bois is resplendent with the technical acuity that made Lalique known as the "master of modern bijoux (jewelry.)" In his early years, Lalique personally designed and modeled each mold for his creations in clay. These molds were then cast in iron and coated with a paste of resin and beeswax, hand-tooled for detail. The finish pressed-glass jewel was submerged in a bath of hydrofluoric acid, frosting the exterior. A thin layer of "jade green" powdered enamel was sifted and annealed onto the piece. The venation of each petal was painstakingly cut, revealing the plain crystal underneath. The warm glow of the gold backing gives the piece a breathtaking amber hue.
A French Art Nouveau hair comb with carved horn by Elizabeth Bonté. The hair comb features two cicadas in carved horn amidst foliage. The comb has five teeth. Elizabeth Bonté was an Art Nouveau designer educated at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, and an acknowledged master of unusual and beautiful organic materials in jewels. She was an early proponent of the use of horn, a light and pliable but extraordinarily difficult material that, once mastered, could be tinted, molded and given a skin-like patina. Here the horn has been carved, shaped and colored to represent a pair of cicadas perched among fruiting olive branches and leaves. For years, Bonté''s main rival was a man, Georges Pierre, who ultimately joined her studio. They combined forces, collaborating until 1936.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and enamel jabot pin designed in a floral motif with flowers at each end, set with 100 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats, and black enamel forming the two flowers. This type of brooch, usually long and vertically shaped, consists of a single central pin with two decorative ornaments at either end. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable, allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment. When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric.In the 1920''s and 1930''s, Cartier was famed for its jeweled jabots, which it called cliquet pins or brooches (named for the "click" made when the detachable ornament is snapped on to the pin). Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.
A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
A French late Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds and aquamarine by Cartier Paris. The brooch has 80 round, square and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.90 carats, centering on a hexangular aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 35.20 carats.
A set of two of French Art Deco 18 karat gold "lilac-leaf" clip brooches,the larger set with oval-cut green tourmalines, yellow heliodor beryls, yellow-gray beryls and aquamarines, highlighted by a single-cut diamond stem set in platinum, the second set with circular and oval-cut pink tourmalines, pale amethysts, and green tourmalines, both with medium-relief naturalistic modeling, by René Boivin. Executed under the leadership of famed Boivin designer Juliette Moutard, these spectacular pieces are as significant in the history of high jewelry as they are beautiful. These elegant brooches demonstrate the height of Moutard''s particular style: the refined, geometrically-rendered organic shape of the lilac leaf, the sensitive and masterful employment of color gradation, and the interplay of complementary shapes are all hallmarks of Moutard''s work for Boivin. The brooches have oval-cut tourmalines, green and yellow beryl, which together have and approximate total weight of 42.25 carats; aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats; and 30 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat. With authenticity report from expert Francoise Cailles. Boivin''s work is a remarkable exception to many of the presiding trends of the 1930s. For one, the house eschewed the stark, monotonous, and highly geometric Art Deco stye. While other firms continued
to churn out architecturally clean designs in diamond and platinum, Boivin maintained their commitment to celebrating color and the organic forms of the natural world. Also notable, and unusual for the time, is that Boivin was an all-female led firm. After the premature death of René Boivin in 1917, the firm would be led until its dissolution by his widow, Jeanne Boivin, and a host of brilliant female designers, among them Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin,
A French Egyptian Revival 18 karat gold pendant necklace with boulder opal, diamond, freshwater pearl and enamel by Antoine Bricteux, Paris. Designed as a winged scarab carved in boulder opal, measuring 11.89 mm by 4.06 mm, within a surround of white en plein and indigo plique-a-jour enamel wings, with 21 old mine-cut diamond highlights, approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and a freshwater pearl drop measuring approximately 5.50 mm, suspended from oval and rectangular trace link chain, convertible to a brooch, with original fitted box.Note: Exquisitely modeled and finished, this Egyptian Revival winged scarab necklace by Maison Bricteux, Paris, exemplifies the total freedom of imagination that characterized the Art Nouveau period. Centering a scarab carved from a boulder opal still in its seam of ironstone, within a surround of translucent plique-a-jour enamel feathers, the jewel demonstrates Art Nouveau''s restless exploration of unusual techniques and materials.The jeweler Antoine Bricteux ran a small boutique firm in the neighborhood of the Palais Royale, a center of the artistic luxury trade in Paris. Mention of his work appears in Henri Vever''s history of French jewelry, where Maison Bricteux is described as a "distinguished firm" which created "charming jewelry of modern inspiration." Bricteux collaborated with the designer G. Landois -along with the great firm
of Louis Aucoc -until Landois'' sudden death. Egyptian motifs such as the scarab have appeared prominently in European art since the Renaissance. Worn over the millennia in many societies as a favorite amulet, the scarab is identified with purity of heart. During the Art Nouveau period, it was a highly popular design motif along with winged women, who represented the imaginative liberty of the age.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooches with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. Each ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat which are bezel-set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. With signed Cartier box. Similar pictured in Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, page 44-45.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond clip brooch, Monture Cartier. The brooch is designed as a stylized ropetwist floral spray with diamond blossoms and gold leaves, highlighted by 21 Old European-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, approximate total weight 5.00 carats, suspending a ropetwist tassel with acorn pendant. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H/I color grade. Mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum. The clip brooch was manufactured by the Cartier workshop Dubois, who produced some of the most remarkable pieces of "tutti fruitI" and other Indian inspired jewelry for the firm.
A French 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The sweeping brooch features 56 stunning F/G color and VVS/VS clarity diamonds graduating from .02 carat to .60 carat, with an approximate total weight of 7.75 carats. The piece also features 30 fantastically matched rubies approximate total weight of 3.10 carats, 24 clean emeralds approximate total weight 2.25 carats, and 9 blue sapphires, with the approximate total weight .85 carat. All framed by delicate twisted gold work.
A French 18 karat gold brooch with turquoise, diamonds and rubies by Janca. The semicircular brooch radiates elegantly outward in a fan motif. Striations of textured gold and openwork are dotted with 12 rubies of approximate total weight of 1.2 carats and 7 diamonds of approximate total weight of .6 carat, while 31 turquoise cabochons decorate the base.
A French 18 karat gold flower brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The brooch is composed of highly textured carved foliate motifs and has 14 round-cut diamonds serving as an attractive center to the bloom. The stones have an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. Provenance: From the collection of Margaretta Fitler Murphy "Happy" Rockefeller
A French 18 karat gold elephant brooch with coral and enamel by Van Cleef and Arpels. A novelty brooch of an elephant with oval-cut emerald eyes that have the approximate total weight of .24 carat, carved white coral tusks and black enamel feet, in textured 18 karat yellow gold.
A French 18 karat gold and sapphire "Feuille" clip brooch, by René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard. The flexible leaf form set with 31 oval and cushion-cut sapphires, further enhanced by 32 circular-cut sapphires, approximate total weight 124.00 carats. In the 1930s, the creative women at the House of Boivin turned to naturalistic themes, among them flowers and leaves, just as most mainstream jewelers were abandoning such motifs. So often the source of inspiration for her young designers, Madame Boivin brought back armfuls of leaves from her long walks in the forest, and encouraged Juliette to introduce them into her jewelry designs. Typical of Moutard''s eye for color, the sapphires subtly shift in hue and tone, ranging from pale violet and indigo to cornflower blue. Moutard selected and positioned them to reflect the multiple variegations of a natural creation. The sapphire leaf, articulated to move luxuriously, drapes from similarly-toned circular-cut sapphire and gold veins. With certificate of authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, dated 2 May 2017, stating that the brooch is the work of the House of René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard.
A French 1950''s 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The highly stylized brooch appears to be caught in motion, as a bouquet of gold ribs makes an elegant, diamond-crowned arc before looping back upon itself, ultimately fanning out as it stretches downward, allowing for the significant diamond accents at the bottom of the brooch to each be displayed in full. The brooch has 23 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats. French Control Marks, Makers Mark.
A French Art Deco platinum and enamel brooch with diamonds and rubies. The brooch has 306 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.75 carats, and 2 cabochon ruby accents. This dimensional brooch representing a dove, the symbol of peace and love, is of special significance, as it was produced as France and the European continent were heading towards war.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Clematis" brooch with diamonds and Mediterranean red coral by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 8 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carat forming the cluster center, surrounded by a yellow gold stamen, and 5 Mediterranean red coral petals. The flower has a polished gold stem and textured gold leaf. Of a similar motif as the ''Rose de Noel'' Collection. Circa 1960''s. A similar brooch is pictured in Living Jewels, by Ruth Peltason, Vendome Press, 2010, page 173.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum and 18 karat white gold brooch with diamonds and pearls by Pierre Sterlé. The brooch contains 300 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. There are 3 articulated South Sea pearls measuring 13.5 mm, 13.3 mm and 12.5 mm finishing the bottom. The brooch is designed as a tied bow composed of chevron-set diamond ribbons finished with the 3 diamond-capped South Sea pearls. A similar brooch is pictured in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, Editions Vecteurs, 1990, Plate 1273.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ''Two Feathers'' brooch has 41 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.35 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.This brooch was first introduced in 1954 and has become an iconic piece for Van Cleef & Arpels. Similar pictured in Set in Style The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, with contributions by Suzy Menkes (and) Ruth Peltason, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 221 (Similar). The pictured ''Two Feathers'' brooch is made in platinum, Mystery-set sapphires and diamonds,
A French 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 23 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.30 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in a modernist motif of ''krinkled'' hammered gold, with one section of the brooch platinum and diamond-set.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds by Cartier Paris. The brooch has pavé round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, a cabochon sapphire with an approximate weight of 4.70 carats, 44 cabochon sapphires with an approximate total weight of .88 carat, and 2 cabochon emerald eyes. Signed Cartier box. "In 1914 Louis Cartier commissioned French painter George Barbier to draw a lady with jewels and a panther. The artwork was later used in advertising, and Cartier was inextricably linked with the symbol of this animal. Louis Cartier was the pioneer in taming the legendary creature and his associate Jeanne Toussaint went on to make magnificent use of the icon. The panther has since inspired timeless and elegant collections of jewelry and timepieces that show the multiple facets of the animal that can be at times bold, regal or sensual." -- Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, p. 72
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Coffee Bean" earrings by Cartier. Each highly three dimensional earring is composed of ribbed coffee bean motifs arranged in a stylized floral form. With a signed Cartier Box. Cartier first presented this design in the 1930s as an homage to Paris'' fabulous café culture, beloved of its famous artists, writers and philosophers. Coffee bean brooches, necklaces watches and earclips were popular on both sides of the Atlantic well into the 1950s.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ''Capillaire'' brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 74 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, E/F/G color, VS clarity. A similar brooch is pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, The Art of High Jewelry, by Evelyne Posseme, editor, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 152.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with ruby and diamonds. The brooch has 1 cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of .02 carat, and 5 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .35 carat. The brooch is designed as a dimensional bird of paradise perched on a branch.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Sombrero" brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Schlumberger for Tiffany and Co. The brooch has round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.95 carats, and round- and oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 12.00 carats. Made in France, with French assay and maker''s marks
A convertible French 18 karat gold clip brooch with calibre-cut sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch, convertible into a set of three, is highlighted by channel-set lines of 22 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats. In this set of three-in-one convertible clips, Van Cleef & Arpels captures the spirit of the 1940s - curvaceous, streamlined, and intriguingly asymmetrical. The dynamic clips with their reverse curves, bound by lines of angular sapphires, are a jewelry echo of the avant garde sculpture of the period. A similar set of brooches, known as the "Joined Wave", is pictured in Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, p. 62, and was shown at the eponymous exhibition at the Smithsonian''s Cooper Hewitt in New York, in 2011.
A French Napolean III 18 karat gold and oxidized silver brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 163 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.40 carats. Designed with double festoon and floral motifs.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamond and pearl brooch. The brooch centers a relief portrait of a young woman with flowing hair among flowering vines on a plique-a-jour enamel ground with foliate old mine and rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.25 carat, suspending a freshwater pearls.With French assay mark.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century platinum double clips/brooches with diamonds by Pierre Sterlé. The pair of double clips/brooches have 140 round-cut and 118 rectangular-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 27.30 carats. They have a G/H color and VS clarity grade. Illustrated in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, 1990, in ''Les Broches'' section.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum and diamond necklace/tiara by Mellerio dits Meller. The necklace is composed of 200 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 44.25 carats, and 200 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 45.75 carats. Approximate total carat weight is 90.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The triple row necklace is formed of two outer rows of round-cut diamonds and a center row of baguette diamonds. The necklace separates forming a separate bracelet. The tiara frame is decorated with 7 round cut pastes. Mellerio fitted box. Mellerio dits Meller, the French jewelry house, was founded in 1613, and is still active today. "With jewelry for Marie-Antoinette, brooches for Princess Mathilde and tiaras for the court of the Netherlands, some of the biggest names in European royal history have cameos in the history of Mellerio dits Meller. The story of this jeweler to kings and queens has been written in gold and precious stones ever since Marie de Medicis lent her support to the house in 1613." Vincent Meylan, Mellerio historian.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant/brooch with freshwater pearl drop and plique-à-jour enamel, depicting a maiden in profile against a sky with clouds and framed with pink poppy blossoms by Louis Zorra. The serpentine clouds, the woman''s abundant tresses, and the flower tendrils all follow the organic curvilinear line associated with Art Nouveau. Nature, flowers and women are themes that were often explored in tandem by fin-de-siècle artists. Here they function together to create a harmonious and picturesque scene that delights the eye. Pictured in "The French Aesthetic, Art Nouveau", by Victor Arwas, Andreas Papadakis, page 346.
A French Art Nouveau gilt bronze bust of a woman by Louis Chalon, "The Sunflower at Dawn." The young woman wears her wavy hair loose, with a headband decorated with a feather and flower. Her right shoulder is ornamented with drapery and a floral-motif brooch. A large sunflower covers her bare breasts. A similar bust is pictured in: "Dynamic Beauty: Sculpture of Art Nouveau Paris", by Macklowe Gallery, The Studley Press, 2011, p. 111.
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