A French Antique 18-karat gold and enamel bracelet with turquoise. The bracelet is composed of 4 strands of woven gold rope with clover-shaped enamel and turquoise set slides. The enamel work is designed as Moorish arabesques set with cabochon turquoise. The hanging locket has a similar clover-shaped motif. This piece can be seen as an ancestor of Van Cleef & Arpels''s iconic "Alhambra" jewelry.
An French Antique 18 karat gold bangle bracelet, the hinged form set with buff-top turquoise and split seed pearls in an interlocking geometric motif. Alfred Robin and his father are mentioned by Henri Vever in his history of French Jewelers of the 19th Century as successful designers of the post Franco-Prussian War period (1870-1871).
A French Belle Epoque 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds designed by Lucien Gautrait for Leon Gariod. The bracelet has 5 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.90 carat set into 6 openwork wheat- and foliate-decorated plaque links. The 3 larger links are enameled and heavily decorated.
A French Art Deco platinum bracelet with diamonds by Okrant et Davidonniez. The flexible open work bracelet has 512 European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 38.00 carats, 2 larger diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 2 smaller flanking diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, VS clarity, G/H/I color grade. With original box. The Okrant et Davidonniez workshop was located in Paris at 64 rue Lafayette. They produced jewelry for all the Place Vendôme fine jewelry houses, such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, and Boucheron. The firm closed in 1939. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018. Similar bracelets are pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 84, 154.
A French Art Deco platinum and diamond bracelet . The wide, flexible, openwork bracelet is composed of 3 diamond plaques centering on 3 Old European-cut diamonds that weigh approximately .95 carat, .85 carat and .80 carat. There are 411 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.50 carats that form a geometric pattern. The larger diamonds are framed with 24 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The total approximate weight of the bracelet is 28.00 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Similar bracelets are pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, pages 84,154.
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold bracelet with lapis lazuli by Marzo Paris. The flexible bracelet has 19 lapis lazuli gold-set beads which form the central row between outer rows of polished gold beads.
A French Art Deco platinum bracelet with diamonds. This bracelet features baguette and old European- and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 25.00 carats. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H-I-J color grade.
A French Retro 18-karat gold bracelet with blue sapphires and diamonds by Boucheron. The flexible link bracelet has 72 cabochon blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.20 carats, and old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats. The bracelet is composed of 4 dimensional half moons set with cabochon sapphires and diamonds from a double row of oval and rectangular "seed" links.
A French Retro 18-karat yellow and pink gold bracelet composed of 6 three-dimensional links in a "tank track" motif. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.
Signed: Unidentified Maker’s and French control marks
A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with emeralds and diamonds attributed to Rubel Frères. The bracelet has 64 square-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 8.30 carats, and 32 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carat. The flexible bracelet is designed in a step motif.
A French Retro 18 karat gold bracelet. The 8 link bracelet is composed of geometric pink and yellow gold graphic dimensional sections. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.
A French Retro 18 karat polished gold bracelet. The bracelet is composed of 6 openwork links and 6 closed polished yellow gold links. Following World War II, jewelry makers in Europe and America made heavy geometric link bracelets popular. Their inspiration for these pieces were the wheel tracks from the tanks which were used so heavily during the war.
A French Retro 18 karat pink gold- and platinum-covered watch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier Paris. The cover of the watch has 14 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carat, and 3 calibre-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carat. The watch has a flexible box-link bracelet. The movement is by Jaeger Le Coultre. With signed Cartier box.
A French Retro 18 karat yellow gold bracelet by Boucheron. The heavy bracelet is made of 10 polished yellow gold palmettes links.Pictured as a necklace in Boucheron La Capture de L''eclat, by Patrick Wald Lasowski, Anne-Marie Clais, Edition Cercle D''Art, 2005, page , Plate 159.
A chic statement of modernist abstraction, this highly flexible 18 karat gold necklace of stylized palmette leaves converts into two bracelets for versatile wear. Expressing the post-war Retro spirit with bold forms and freedom from ornament, this necklace/bracelet combination, with its soft-edged links, offers easy glamour and understated luxury. A version of this necklace is held in the collection of the Boucheron Archives in Paris. Boucheron Paris has been at the intersection of versatility and avant-garde design since "Monsieur Frédéric" founded the firm as a young man in 1858. With money borrowed from friends and family, Boucheron opened a small but opulent salon offering expensive modern jewels which appealed to the most daring buyers, including the tastemakers of the Russian aristocracy and the Parisian demi-monde. A friendly man, and a calm and graceful risk-taker himself, Boucheron was a creative force and benevolent presence in the Parisian jewelry world. While many houses were looking back to historical styles for inspiration, Boucheron re-introduced naturalism into jewelry arts with novel forms that were delightfully surprising in their asymmetry and unusual, exquisitely-handled materials. Suites of convertible jewels, popular among women clients buying for themselves such as the American expatriate Marie-Louise Mackay, were a specialty. Numerous innovations, am
ong them engraved diamonds, "scarf" necklaces of woven gold and platinum, and the re-discovery of the technique of plique-a-jour enamel (a patent he held but never enforced against others), gained the firm several prizes at the international expositions, as well as a devoted elite clientele and worldwide reputation.
An Early-20th Century platinum necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 5 large Old European-cut diamonds ranging in size from smallest to largest at 0.82 carats 0.82 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 1.11 - 1.16 carats, 443 Old European-cut and round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 18.74 carats, 10 trapazoid-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, 8 French-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.60 carats, and 10 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. The necklace overall measures 16" in length, and may be converted to a choker necklace at 13.25", or or to two bracelets at 6.75" each.
A French Late-20th Century ebony cuff with 18 karat gold accents by Van Cleef & Arpels. The tapering exotic wood cuff with dark graining inlaid with nine 18kt gold triangle motifs. Circa 1993. Note: Having innovated with fresh and unusual materials since the 1920s, Van Cleef began incorporating wood again into its designs both in the 1960s and the 1990s, in response to enthusiasm for natural materials. Sleek, modernist forms, as these earrings, were designed, as well as whimsical items such as jeweled mushroom pins on wooden stalks.Similar to the collection pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 222.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold bracelet with amethysts. The dimensional link bracelet has 5 square-cut amethysts with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats. The bracelet is composed of 5 rectangular flexible links connected with 5 amethyst-set oval links.
The Van Cleef & Arpels "Bagatelle" Bracelet:This French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Bagatelle" bracelet with diamonds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels was designed as a bed of gold beads scattered with sapphire and diamond blossoms, set with 58 round-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 61 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats. Price: $65,000 – Call: (212) 644-6400Dating from the late 1940s/early 1950s, this chic bracelet represents the spirit of post-war rejuvenation and easy glamor. Sometimes worn two to a wrist, these bold bracelets defined the relaxed elegance of cocktail hour and women''s renewed social freedom. Its domed form, topped with playful beads, is scattered with richly colored sapphire and diamond blossoms, presenting a complex visual and tactile texture, and combining organic appeal with a sculptural quality. The master jeweler workshop that realized VCA''s design was Pery et Fils, who famously collaborated with the house on the Duchess of Windsor''s "Zip" necklace and the "Passe Partout" convertible jewels. This bracelet''s superb construction, with its exquisitely articulated, myriad micro-springs and hinges, is a creation of a lost jeweler''s art and is supremely flexible, soft and comfortable to wear.A similar bracelet is pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by S
ylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1986, page 236. VC&A devised a number of delightful variations using these design elements, sometimes variously named between the house and the trade. On page 131, Raulet explains that when the massed gold beads, referred to as the "Lawn" or in the market as "Couscous", was paired with "Hawaii" flowers, the overall design was called "Bagatelle".
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished gold and enamel link bracelet with chalcedony by Sasportas. The 6 bracelet links are set with 6 stylized carved chalcedony stones flanked by black enamel. Ancient meets Modern in this bracelet by French jeweler Sasportas. The intaglio-carved chalcedony recalls the time of Cleopatra, whereas the geometric goldwork and onyx are hallmarks of Retro design.
A set of three French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold bracelets with round-cut sapphires, rubies and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelets are set with 13 round-cut blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 14 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 2.10 carats, and 14 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.25 carats. The bracelets are able to connect together to be worn as a necklace. This trio of chunky, gem-set rope twist bracelets represents a classic form of the 1960s by Van Cleef & Arpels, the renowned Parisian-American jewelers who have been in the forefront of glamour and imaginative design since their founding in the early 20th century. A sleek, beautifully-modeled set, highlighted by bold sparkles of color, these three bracelets nestle comfortably together on the wrist for a look of casual glamour.
A French Art Deco diamond and platinum bracelet. The line bracelet has 38 round Old European box-set diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.75 carats, I/J color, VS/SI clarity. The bracelet centers on a .90 carat Old European cut diamond graduating to diamonds of approximately .10 carat.
A French Art Deco 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet with blue sapphires and diamonds. The bracelet has 8 open link sections with 64 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.60 carats, and 32 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carat, H/I color, VS clarity. The sections are connected with 8 links of 25 French-cut blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.25 carats.
An important French Retro, 18-karat rose gold bangle bracelet with diamonds, rubies, and rose quartz, by Verger Frères. The hinged bangle bracelet is designed with terminals of rose quartz sphere clusters, each set with circular-cut rubies, approximate total weight 1.65 carats, flanked by old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats, further highlighted by calibré-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1 carat. The Verger workshop was a successful, behind-the-scenes force creating jewels for Boucheron, Cartier, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Unlike those of many manufacturing jewelers, who merely produced work to order, Verger''s own original designs were particularly valued and sought after by these great Parisian Maison. Verger are known for their magnificent clocks featuring strongly defined shapes, stylized lines and global inspiration. For the Haute Joaillerie he created elaborate fancies of form and color contrast, as we see here in this important rose gold bracelet.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum, sapphire and diamond bracelet by Boucheron. The bracelet is made of alternating rows of round- and oval-cut blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 16.45 carats, and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 16.65 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. Sapphires are untreated and no evidence of enhancement. The origin is Thailand and Cambodia (Pailin). American Gemological certificate #1092977
A French Mid-20th Century platinum and diamond necklace/tiara by Mellerio dits Meller. The necklace is composed of 200 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 44.25 carats, and 200 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 45.75 carats. Approximate total carat weight is 90.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The triple row necklace is formed of two outer rows of round-cut diamonds and a center row of baguette diamonds. The necklace separates forming a separate bracelet. The tiara frame is decorated with 7 round cut pastes. Mellerio fitted box. Mellerio dits Meller, the French jewelry house, was founded in 1613, and is still active today. "With jewelry for Marie-Antoinette, brooches for Princess Mathilde and tiaras for the court of the Netherlands, some of the biggest names in European royal history have cameos in the history of Mellerio dits Meller. The story of this jeweler to kings and queens has been written in gold and precious stones ever since Marie de Medicis lent her support to the house in 1613." Vincent Meylan, Mellerio historian.
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