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"brooch"

Antique Diamond, Amber Silver and Gold Borzoi Brooch

An Antique 15 karat gold and silver top diamond brooch. The body of the Borzoi has 230 pavé rose and Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. The markings are created of intricately carved shades of amber.

Antique Diamond, Amber Silver and Gold Borzoi Brooch

Antique Demantoid Garnet, Diamond, Gold and Platinum Grasshopper Brooch

An Antique 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with demantoid garnets, diamonds and ruby. The brooch has 38 demantoid garnets with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, 34 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, and a ruby eye. The 3 dimensional grasshopper brooch is positioned in a perched position.

Antique Demantoid Garnet, Diamond, Gold and Platinum Grasshopper Brooch

Antique Diamond, Emerald, Ruby Baroque Pearl Silver and Gold Brooch

A Victorian silver-top 18 karat gold, diamond, emerald, ruby and pearl brooch, featuring a depiction of the penultimate scene from the fable "Jack and the Beanstalk" in which Jack lures the giant by stealing the mermaid''s harp. A baroque pearl forms the tail of a sculpted 18-karat gold mermaid decorating the base of a lyre outlined with old mine-cut diamonds. The strings of the lyre are accented with emeralds, rubies, diamonds and a sapphire weighing approximately 1.75, .30, .30 and .05 carats respectively.

Antique Diamond, Emerald, Ruby Baroque Pearl Silver and Gold Brooch

Victorian English Gold and Reverse Crystal Hunting Brooch

An English Victorian 18 karat gold reverse crystal brooch. The finely painted crystal brooch represents ducks in lift-off. The yellow and red gold frame is decorated with dimensional pussy willows intertwined with ribbon. Reverse crystal intaglios are a rock crystal cabochon with an intaglio carved into the flat back and then painted realistically with oils, so that when, viewed from the top, the image has a three-dimensional effect. Finally, the back was sealed with mother-of-pearl, which preserved the painted areas. The motifs most commonly found were sporting themes -- horses, dogs, foxes and birds. The technique originated in Belgium c. 1860 and was popularized in England c. 1860''s by Thomas Cook.

Victorian English Gold and Reverse Crystal Hunting Brooch

Art Nouveau Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Cockatoo Brooch

An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique-à-jour enamel bird brooch, featuring a stylized depiction of a dimensional cockatoo set on a green and red plique-à-jour enamel foliate panel with gold trim.

Art Nouveau Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Cockatoo Brooch

Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Opal and Gold Stick Pin

An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold stick pin with enameling and black opal by Marcus & Co. The stick pin has a cabochon opal surrounded with four enamel side sections decorated with gold relief arabesque designs. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and ... their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.

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Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Opal and Gold Stick Pin

Louis Zorra Art Nouveau Diamond, Amethyst, Pearl and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch

An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique à jour brooch with diamond, amethysts and pearl by Louis Zorra. The brooch has an old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .65 carat, 21 round bezel-set amethysts with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, and a hanging, enamel-capped pearl. Similar pictured in "Imperishable Beauty Art Nouveau Jewelry", by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Elyse Zorn Karlin, "MFA Publications Museum of Fine Arts", Boston, 2008, pages 8 and 68. "Zorra was possibly born in Italy, working in Paris during the Art Nouveau period)...he moved to Paris from Asti, Italy, and exhibited at the Salon des artistes français, receiving an honorable mention in 1902." Markowitz and Karlin in Imperishable Beauty, pg. 151.

Louis Zorra Art Nouveau Diamond, Amethyst, Pearl and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch

Kohn Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Lapis Lazuli Jardiniere Brooch

An Art Deco platinum and gold brooch with diamonds, ruby, emerald and lapis lazuli by Kohn. The brooch has 38 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, with ruby and emerald accents. The base of the jardiniere is formed of a single piece of lapis lazuli banded with red and black enamel. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.

Kohn Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Lapis Lazuli Jardiniere Brooch

Late Edwardian Diamond, Onyx and Platinum Brooch

A late Edwardian platinum brooch with diamonds and onyx. The brooch has milgrain-set old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.50 carats, H/I color grade, VS clarity, with baguette-cut onyx accents. The brooch is designed as a poppy blossom with articulated diamond-set knife-edge bars. With detachable brooch fitting.

Late Edwardian Diamond, Onyx and Platinum Brooch

Mauboussin Late Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.

Mauboussin Late Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

E. M. Gattle & Co. Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Brooch

An American Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds by E. M. Gattle & Co.. The brooch has 168 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats, and 5 square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .75 carat. The total approximate diamond weight of the brooch is 5.25 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. The brooch centers on a dimensional jardinière flanked by pierced foliate elements with a milgrain set diamond border. E.M. Gattle Co. was founded by Emanuel Gattle in the latter part of the 19th century. Originally, E.M. Gattle & Co. was located on Broadway in the theatre district. In 1907, the company moved to the corner of 38th Street and Fifth Avenue and, later, to 55th Street and Fifth Avenue, next to the St. Regis Hotel. One of their notable customers was Enrico Caruso, who shopped Gattle stores for jewelry. However, he was not only a shopper of Gattle, he also allowed his name and photograph to be used in Gattle advertising. Gattle became successful until the time they closed their doors. The firm closed in 1940, a year before the outbreak of World War II. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.

E. M. Gattle & Co. Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Brooch

Ostertag Paris Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Double Clip Brooch

A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day. During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities. Ostert ... ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940. His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.

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Ostertag Paris Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Double Clip Brooch

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold and Platinum Pair of Brooches

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooches with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. Each ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat which are bezel-set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. With signed Cartier box. Similar pictured in Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, page 44-45.

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold and Platinum Pair of Brooches

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Coral, Diamond and Gold ''Clematis'' ''Rose de Noel'' Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Clematis" brooch with diamonds and Mediterranean red coral by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 8 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carat forming the cluster center, surrounded by a yellow gold stamen, and 5 Mediterranean red coral petals. The flower has a polished gold stem and textured gold leaf. Of a similar motif as the ''Rose de Noel'' Collection. Circa 1960''s. A similar brooch is pictured in Living Jewels, by Ruth Peltason, Vendome Press, 2010, page 173.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Coral, Diamond and Gold ''Clematis'' ''Rose de Noel'' Brooch

Portugese en Tramblant Diamond Silver and Gold Flower Brooch

A Portuguese Georgian style 18 karat gold and oxidized silver brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 250 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, and 23 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .50 carat. The blossoms of the brooch are en tremblant, in the Georgian style of floral brooches.

Portugese en Tramblant Diamond Silver and Gold Flower Brooch

Cartier Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Feather Brooch

A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Cartier designed in a stylized double feather motif. The brooch features 132 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.00 carats, and 48 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, G/H/I color, VS clarity. With signed Cartier box.

Cartier Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Feather Brooch

Pierre Sterlé Mid-20th Century Diamond, Pearl and Platinum Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century platinum and 18 karat white gold brooch with diamonds and pearls by Pierre Sterlé. The brooch contains 300 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. There are 3 articulated South Sea pearls measuring 13.5 mm, 13.3 mm and 12.5 mm finishing the bottom. The brooch is designed as a tied bow composed of chevron-set diamond ribbons finished with the 3 diamond-capped South Sea pearls. A similar brooch is pictured in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, Editions Vecteurs, 1990, Plate 1273.

Pierre Sterlé Mid-20th Century Diamond, Pearl and Platinum Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century ''Two Feathers'' Diamond, Gold and Platinum Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ''Two Feathers'' brooch has 41 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.35 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. This brooch was first introduced in 1954 and has become an iconic piece for Van Cleef & Arpels. Similar pictured in Set in Style The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, with contributions by Suzy Menkes (and) Ruth Peltason, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 221 (Similar). The pictured ''Two Feathers'' brooch is made in platinum, Mystery-set sapphires and diamonds,

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century ''Two Feathers'' Diamond, Gold and Platinum Brooch

Raymond Yard Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Leaf Brooch

An American Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 47 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, and 9 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats. Total approximate weight of the brooch is 5.40 carats, F/H color, VS clarity. The dimensional brooch is composed of 2 overlapping leaves. The firm of Raymond Yard catered to the wealthiest and most distinguished American families such as Rockefellers, Fleischmanns, Flaglers, and Woolworths, among others. The firm, Raymond C. Yard, focused primarily on custom pieces for their clientele and was known for sourcing the highest quality of materials that his clientele demanded. Stock pieces were executed by the highest level of outside manufacturers, with Yard supplying the stones and designs. His creations exemplified the understated elegance of impeccable workmanship combined with the very finest of materials. Raymond Yard prided himself on his knowledge of gems and was considered one of the foremost experts on pearls. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, The Vendome Press, 2007, page 61.

Raymond Yard Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Leaf Brooch

Hunt & Roskell London Antique Diamond, Pearl, Gold and Enamel Bracelet

An Antique English 18 karat gold, diamond, natural pearl and enamel hinged bracelet by Hunt & Roskell of London. The bracelet features 84 old mine- and rose-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 2.70 carats. The natural pearl center plaque of the bracelet is removable and can be worn as a brooch. The center pearl measures 8.55 mm. with 4 additional pearls that measure 5.9 mm. With original brooch attachments and original signed fitted box. Selected as jewelers and goldsmiths to Her Majesty in the 1840s, Hunt & Roskell of New Bond Street were prominent participants in the Crystal Palace Exhibition of 1851, the first of the competitive international expositions that provided dynamic impetus to creativity and accomplishment in the fine and decorative arts. Their work ran from glamorous (diamond and gem-set tiaras convertible into necklaces) to exotic (bracelets set with rare Indian portrait diamonds), and they were owners for a time of the legendary Hope blue diamond. In keeping with the firm''s tradition of versatility, this chic bracelet, with its creamy natural pearls set off by sparkling antique-cut diamonds, conceals a brooch fitting under the velvet interior of its original morocco leather box.

Hunt & Roskell London Antique Diamond, Pearl, Gold and Enamel Bracelet

Antique Essex Crystal and Gold Dog Brooch

An English Antique 15 karat gold brooch. The Victorian round Essex Crystal brooch portrays a terrier wwaring a red collar, with his tongue hanging out. An affectionate portrait of a beloved companion.

Antique Essex Crystal and Gold Dog Brooch

French Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour, Diamond, and Pearl Pendant/Brooch

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamond and pearl brooch. The brooch centers a relief portrait of a young woman with flowing hair among flowering vines on a plique-a-jour enamel ground with foliate old mine and rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.25 carat, suspending a freshwater pearls. With French assay mark.

French Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour, Diamond, and Pearl Pendant/Brooch

Art Deco Platinum and Diamond Double Clip Brooch

An Art Deco platinum and diamond double clip brooch designed in a stylized ribbon motif centering on two kite-shaped diamonds with an approximate total weight of .90 carat, surrounded by 170 old European-cut diamonds and 66 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 7.50 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. The brooch has a removable pin back which separates the clips.

Art Deco Platinum and Diamond Double Clip Brooch

Mellerio dits Meller French Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Necklace Bracelet and Tiara

A French Mid-20th Century platinum and diamond necklace/tiara by Mellerio dits Meller. The necklace is composed of 200 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 44.25 carats, and 200 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 45.75 carats. Approximate total carat weight is 90.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The triple row necklace is formed of two outer rows of round-cut diamonds and a center row of baguette diamonds. The necklace separates forming a separate bracelet. The tiara frame is decorated with 7 round cut pastes. Mellerio fitted box. Mellerio dits Meller, the French jewelry house, was founded in 1613, and is still active today. "With jewelry for Marie-Antoinette, brooches for Princess Mathilde and tiaras for the court of the Netherlands, some of the biggest names in European royal history have cameos in the history of Mellerio dits Meller. The story of this jeweler to kings and queens has been written in gold and precious stones ever since Marie de Medicis lent her support to the house in 1613." Vincent Meylan, Mellerio historian.

Mellerio dits Meller French Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Necklace Bracelet and Tiara

French Art Nouveau Bronze Bust by Chalon

A French Art Nouveau gilt bronze bust of a woman by Louis Chalon, "The Sunflower at Dawn." The young woman wears her wavy hair loose, with a headband decorated with a feather and flower. Her right shoulder is ornamented with drapery and a floral-motif brooch. A large sunflower covers her bare breasts. A similar bust is pictured in: "Dynamic Beauty: Sculpture of Art Nouveau Paris", by Macklowe Gallery, The Studley Press, 2011, p. 111.

French Art Nouveau Bronze Bust by Chalon

Edwardian Diamond, Seed Pearl and Gold Heart Pendant/Brooch

An English Edwardian 15 karat gold pendant/brooch with diamond and seed pearls. The pendant/brooch has a bezel-set old mine-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.25 carats, and prong-set natural seed pearls. The heart-shape pendant/brooch has a fold-down bale and pendant watch fitting. "The heart-shaped jewel...emblem(s) of sacred and profane love..." Geoffrey C. Munn. Discussed in The Triumph of Love Jewelry 1530-1930, by Geoffrey C. Munn, Thames and Hudson, London, 1993.

Edwardian Diamond, Seed Pearl and Gold Heart Pendant/Brooch

Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Pearl, Diamond and Emerald Brooch

An Art Nouveau brooch with pearls, diamonds and emerald by Marcus & Co. The brooch has 10 semi-spherical pearls, 15 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.25 carats and a polished emerald drop. Gemological Institute of America certificate #2171449596 states the pearls are natural saltwater button pearls. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-se ... en black opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.

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Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau Pearl, Diamond and Emerald Brooch

Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau White Opal and Chrysoprase, Plique-à-Jour Enamel and Gold Pendant Brooch

An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail. The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black ... opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard. Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.

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Marcus & Co. Art Nouveau White Opal and Chrysoprase, Plique-à-Jour Enamel and Gold Pendant Brooch

French Napoleon III Diamond Silver and Gold Brooch

A French Napolean III 18 karat gold and oxidized silver brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 163 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 12.40 carats. Designed with double festoon and floral motifs.

French Napoleon III Diamond Silver and Gold Brooch

Cartier London Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Coffee Bean'' Brooch

An English Mid-20th Century flower-shaped 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier London. The brooch has 4 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .28 carat. The flower is composed of deeply engraved overlapping leaves leading to the diamond flowers. From the iconic Cartier ''Coffee Bean'' Collection.

Cartier London Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Coffee Bean'' Brooch

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Gold ''Coffee Bean'' Earrings

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Coffee Bean" earrings by Cartier. Each highly three dimensional earring is composed of ribbed coffee bean motifs arranged in a stylized floral form. With a signed Cartier Box. Cartier first presented this design in the 1930s as an homage to Paris'' fabulous café culture, beloved of its famous artists, writers and philosophers. Coffee bean brooches, necklaces watches and earclips were popular on both sides of the Atlantic well into the 1950s.

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Gold ''Coffee Bean'' Earrings

Georges Fouquet French Art Nouveau Opal and Silver Peacock Cloak Clasp

A French Art Nouveau silver cloak clasp with opals by Georges Fouquet. The cape clasp is decorated with 14 bezel-set crystal opal plaques. The clasp is designed as two intertwined peacocks with extravagant whiplash ''feathers''. Inspired by a noted collaboration with the renowned Art Nouveau innovator Alfonse Mucha, this cloak clasp in all its exquisite detail and voluptuous lines perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the period. Its peacock theme was a favorite motif of Fouquet and Mucha. A similar piece is pictured in Alastair Duncan''s, The Paris Salons, 1895-1914: Volume I, Antique Collectors'' Club, Woodbridge, Suffolk, 1994, page 251.

Georges Fouquet French Art Nouveau Opal and Silver Peacock Cloak Clasp

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Leaf Brooch

An Italian Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Bulgari. The brooch has 24 baguette and 156 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.0 carats, D/E color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in a dimensional leaf motif.

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Platinum Leaf Brooch

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Flower Brooch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished gold brooch with diamonds by Bulgari. The brooch has 90 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.50 carats H/I color, VS clarity. The dimensional, openwork brooch is designed in a floral motif.

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Flower Brooch

French Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby and Gold Bird Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with ruby and diamonds. The brooch has 1 cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of .02 carat, and 5 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .35 carat. The brooch is designed as a dimensional bird of paradise perched on a branch.

French Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby and Gold Bird Brooch

Antique Diamond Emerald Ruby Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

An Antique 18 karat gold butterfly brooch with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The dimensional butterfly brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.00 carat. The brooch has an additional 82 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The brooch is further detailed with 7 bezel-set emeralds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, 7 bezel-set rubies with an approximate total weight of .45 carat, and 2 bezel-set sapphires with an approximate total weight of .20 carat. The brooch has ruby-set knife-wire antennae.

Antique Diamond Emerald Ruby Sapphire and Gold Butterfly Brooch

French Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, and Platinum Dove Brooch

A French Art Deco platinum and enamel brooch with diamonds and rubies. The brooch has 306 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.75 carats, and 2 cabochon ruby accents. This dimensional brooch representing a dove, the symbol of peace and love, is of special significance, as it was produced as France and the European continent were heading towards war.

French Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, and Platinum Dove Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby Sapphire and Gold "Hawaii" Brooch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat and platinum gold ''Hawaii'' brooch with diamonds, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 15 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats, 10 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and 36 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. This stylized spray of blossoms and leaves is part of Van Cleef''s celebrated "Hawaii" series, designed as "naive, loose bunches of flowers" meant to capture the post-war spirit of liberation and rejuvenation. With Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity stating: "According to a visual appraisal and to the Van Cleef & Arpels Archives, the item illustrated and described below bearing the engraved numbers NY22818.2...the item illustrated and described has been identified as a Van Cleef & Arpels creation." "A ''Hawaii'' clip set with round diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Mounted in platinum, yellow gold and white gold. 1954."

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond Ruby Sapphire and Gold 'Hawaii' Brooch

Gübelin Swiss Mid-20th Century Diamond Sapphire and Gold Flower Brooch

A Swiss Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished gold brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Gübelin. The flower brooch has 13 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.08 carats, and 35 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. The brooch is designed in a dimensional flower motif.

Gübelin Swiss Mid-20th Century Diamond Sapphire and Gold Flower Brooch

Asprey London Diamond Gold and Enamel Cat Brooch

An Italian Estate 18 karat gold and enamel brooch with diamonds by Asprey London. The brooch has 10 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .20 carats. The golden enamel cat has sky blue enamel spots.

Asprey London Diamond Gold and Enamel Cat Brooch

Cartier Art Deco Diamond and Ruby Brooch

An Art Deco platinum bar brooch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier. The brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond that weighs just under 1.00 carat, 60 old European-cut diamonds that weigh approximately 2.80 carats. and 4 rectangular-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .72 carat.

Cartier Art Deco Diamond and Ruby Brooch

Art Deco Diamond Onyx and Platinum Bow Brooch

An Art Deco platinum brooch with onyx and diamonds. The brooch has 82 calibre-cut onyx stones with an approximate total weight of .40 carat, and 49 Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.45 carats. The brooch is designed as a dimensional tied ribbon bow with an open work gallery in a stylized Art Deco motif.

Art Deco Diamond Onyx and Platinum Bow Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Capillaire'' Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ''Capillaire'' brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 74 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, E/F/G color, VS clarity. A similar brooch is pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, The Art of High Jewelry, by Evelyne Posseme, editor, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 152.

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Capillaire'' Brooch

Gold and Platinum Brooch with Diamonds by Tiffany & Co.

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The flower brooch has six unique, blooming petals studded with diamonds and framed with textured gold. The piece has 73 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.00 carats with a F/G color and VS clarity grade.

Gold and Platinum Brooch with Diamonds by Tiffany & Co.

Gold and Platinum Maple Leaf Brooch with Diamonds

An Antique 18 karat gold and platinum-topped gold brooch with diamonds. The open maple leaf motif has delicate diamond accents down the center stem, and three stunning round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carats hanging dynamically from the piece. The 30 rose-cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .30 carat.

Gold and Platinum Maple Leaf Brooch with Diamonds

Victorian Moonstone, Diamond & Ruby Brooch

A Victorian 15 karat gold brooch with moonstones, diamonds and rubies. The coupled heart-shaped moonstones are each framed by a bright ring of alternating round-cut diamonds and rubies, and topped with a flowing diamond and ruby ribbon tied in a bow. The brooch''s 23 old mine-cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .70 carats, and the 25 old European-cut rubies have an approximate total weight of 1.07 carats.

Victorian Moonstone, Diamond & Ruby Brooch

Art Nouveau Enamel Sweet Pea Brooch with Fly

An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold sweet pea brooch in pink and green shaded enamel. On the open petal of the charming pink bloom is a silver-topped gold insect studded with 14 rose-cut diamonds weighing 15 carat and 2 cabochon ruby eyes that weigh .04 carat. With fitted box.

Art Nouveau Enamel Sweet Pea Brooch with Fly

French gold Brooch with turquoise, diamond and ruby by Janca

A French 18 karat gold brooch with turquoise, diamonds and rubies by Janca. The semicircular brooch radiates elegantly outward in a fan motif. Striations of textured gold and openwork are dotted with 12 rubies of approximate total weight of 1.2 carats and 7 diamonds of approximate total weight of .6 carat, while 31 turquoise cabochons decorate the base.

 French gold Brooch with turquoise, diamond and ruby by Janca

Victorian Silver Topped Gold Diamond Brooch

An Antique silver-topped 14 karat gold brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 1 old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 0.75 carats, 10 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, and 139 old mine-cut and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats.

Victorian Silver Topped Gold Diamond Brooch

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum ''Panthère'' Brooch

A French Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds by Cartier Paris. The brooch has pavé round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, a cabochon sapphire with an approximate weight of 4.70 carats, 44 cabochon sapphires with an approximate total weight of .88 carat, and 2 cabochon emerald eyes. Signed Cartier box. "In 1914 Louis Cartier commissioned French painter George Barbier to draw a lady with jewels and a panther. The artwork was later used in advertising, and Cartier was inextricably linked with the symbol of this animal. Louis Cartier was the pioneer in taming the legendary creature and his associate Jeanne Toussaint went on to make magnificent use of the icon. The panther has since inspired timeless and elegant collections of jewelry and timepieces that show the multiple facets of the animal that can be at times bold, regal or sensual." -- Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, p. 72

Cartier Paris Mid-20th Century Diamond, Sapphire and Platinum ''Panthère'' Brooch

Platinum, Diamond and Pearl Art Deco Brooch

An Art Deco brooch in platinum with diamonds and pearls. The brooch has 54 Old European- and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.2 carats and a large center old mine-cut stone with an approximate total weight of 1.25 carats. The scrolling motifs in diamond and platinum at the top of the piece give way to striations of graduating pearls.

Platinum, Diamond and Pearl Art Deco Brooch

Gold and Diamond Flower Brooch by Cartier

A French 18 karat gold flower brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The brooch is composed of highly textured carved foliate motifs and has 14 round-cut diamonds serving as an attractive center to the bloom. The stones have an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. Provenance: From the collection of Margaretta Fitler Murphy "Happy" Rockefeller

Gold and Diamond Flower Brooch by Cartier

American Gold Brooch with Enamel, Diamonds and Coral, attributed to Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.

An American mid-20th Century 18 karat yellow gold brooch with enamel, diamonds and coral, attributed to Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. The brooch has a cabochon coral face with black enamel eyes, turquoise enamel dress, and 16 round brilliant-cut diamonds, with total approximate weight of 0.55 carats, sprinkled through the figure''s hair. The brooch measures approximately 2.75" in length and 1" in width.

American Gold Brooch with Enamel, Diamonds and Coral, attributed to Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.

Antique Silver-topped Gold and Diamond Pendant

An Antique silver-topped gold pendant with a diamond-studded pendant loop featuring two rings of old European-cut diamonds surrounding one exceptional, significant center stone. The center diamond is approximately 2.35 carats, surrounded by 10 old European-cut and old miners-cut diamonds with an approximate weight of 2.50 carat. There are an additional 15 old European-cut and old-miners cut diamonds on the exterior ring with an approximate weight of 7.50 carats. The detachable bail is set with 3 old European-cut and old miners-cut diamonds with an approximate weight of 0.65 carats, Overall VS-SI clarity, H-J color. This timelessly elegant piece can be worn as a pendant, a brooch or a hairpin. With fitted box.

Antique Silver-topped Gold and Diamond Pendant

Art Nouveau Necklace with Opal Scarab by Antoine Bricteux

A French Egyptian Revival 18 karat gold pendant necklace with boulder opal, diamond, freshwater pearl and enamel by Antoine Bricteux, Paris. Designed as a winged scarab carved in boulder opal, measuring 11.89 mm by 4.06 mm, within a surround of white en plein and indigo plique-a-jour enamel wings, with 21 old mine-cut diamond highlights, approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and a freshwater pearl drop measuring approximately 5.50 mm, suspended from oval and rectangular trace link chain, convertible to a brooch, with original fitted box. Note: Exquisitely modeled and finished, this Egyptian Revival winged scarab necklace by Maison Bricteux, Paris, exemplifies the total freedom of imagination that characterized the Art Nouveau period. Centering a scarab carved from a boulder opal still in its seam of ironstone, within a surround of translucent plique-a-jour enamel feathers, the jewel demonstrates Art Nouveau''s restless exploration of unusual techniques and materials. The jeweler Antoine Bricteux ran a small boutique firm in the neighborhood of the Palais Royale, a center of the artistic luxury trade in Paris. Mention of his work appears in Henri Vever''s history of French jewelry, where Maison Bricteux is described as a "distinguished firm" which created "charming jewelry of modern inspiration." Bricteux collaborated with the designer G. Landois -along with the great firm ... of Louis Aucoc -until Landois'' sudden death. Egyptian motifs such as the scarab have appeared prominently in European art since the Renaissance. Worn over the millennia in many societies as a favorite amulet, the scarab is identified with purity of heart. During the Art Nouveau period, it was a highly popular design motif along with winged women, who represented the imaginative liberty of the age.

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Art Nouveau Necklace with Opal Scarab by Antoine Bricteux

John Rubel Ruby, Diamond, Turquoise Clip Brooch and Earrings Suite

An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu ... e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.

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John Rubel Ruby, Diamond, Turquoise Clip Brooch and Earrings Suite

Antique Diamond, Gold and Silver Maltese Cross Brooch

An English Antique 15 karat gold and oxidized silver Maltese cross brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 130 old European-cut and old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 18.00 carats including the center old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.25 carats. Fold down bale. Antique box. The Maltese cross, in Italy also known as the Amalfi cross, is the cross symbol associated with the Knights Hospitaller (the Knights of Malta) and, by extension, with the island of Malta. The cross is eight-pointed and has the form of four "V"-shaped elements, each joining the others at its vertex, leaving the other two tips spread outward symmetrically. Its design is based on crosses used since the First Crusade. The 15th Century Crusaders adopted the Cross of Malta as their insignia because its eight points represented the eight Beatitudes prescribed in the Sermon on the Mount. Those, in effect, declare (1) blessed are the poor in spirit, (2) the meek, (3) the pure, (4) the merciful, and (5) the peacemakers; (6) blessed are they that mourn, and (7) seek righteousness, and (8) blessed are they who are persecuted for righteousness sake. The Cross of Malta had a religious origin but the Knights of St. John also made it their battle standard for the liberation of all men, women and children who suffered oppression. The ideals for which the original Crusaders fought parallel the principles of democracy today, freedom and justice.

Antique Diamond, Gold and Silver Maltese Cross Brooch

Art Deco Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch

An Art Deco plaque platinum brooch with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds around a central window with a rock crystal bottom on which pheasant and vegetal forms stand out as glycine. The plant forms and the bird are made with emeralds, rubies yellow and blue sapphires and calibrated rubies. These are based on a pavé of diamonds, with the window framed in an oval of diamonds with chatons and a fan at the bottom. The sides of the brooch are made with rubies, emerald and faceted onyx sapphires and set in cells, each one of them in a unique way, simulating a stained glass window. Vegetal forms of diamonds are applied on it. Approximate total weight of diamonds: 4.80 carats. Total approximate weight of colored stones: 4.00 carats.

Art Deco Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch

Cartier Diamond and 18kt Gold Brooch

A French 1950''s 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The highly stylized brooch appears to be caught in motion, as a bouquet of gold ribs makes an elegant, diamond-crowned arc before looping back upon itself, ultimately fanning out as it stretches downward, allowing for the significant diamond accents at the bottom of the brooch to each be displayed in full. The brooch has 23 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats. French Control Marks, Makers Mark.

Cartier Diamond and 18kt Gold Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Modernist Brooch

A French 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 23 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.30 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in a modernist motif of ''krinkled'' hammered gold, with one section of the brooch platinum and diamond-set.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold Modernist  Brooch

Cartier Mid-20th Century Gold Brooch

An 18 karat yellow gold brooch with a woven knot design signed Cartier. The heavily textured brooch is designed in a dimensional open-work woven square motif centering on a textured square plaque.

Cartier Mid-20th Century Gold Brooch

Antique 15kt gold Bow Brooch with Diamond

An English Victorian 15 karat gold brooch with diamond. Executed in the shape of a bold architectural bow, the highly polished piece offers a stark, strongly design-oriented alternative to the ultra-delicate and ultra-feminine bows of the later Edwardian period. The brooch has an old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .40 carat.

Antique 15kt gold Bow Brooch with Diamond

French Art Nouveau Baroque Pearl Diamond Enamel and Gold Whiplash Brooch

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, platinum and enamel brooch with pearl and diamonds. The brooch has a Baroque pearl measuring approximately 20 mm x 7.15 mm, and 5 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .55 carat. The brooch is designed in the classic floral/whiplash Art Nouveau motif.

French Art Nouveau Baroque Pearl Diamond Enamel and Gold Whiplash Brooch

Art Deco Platinum, Diamond, and Enamel Jabot Pin

A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and enamel jabot pin designed in a floral motif with flowers at each end, set with 100 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats, and black enamel forming the two flowers. This type of brooch, usually long and vertically shaped, consists of a single central pin with two decorative ornaments at either end. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable, allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment. When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric. In the 1920''s and 1930''s, Cartier was famed for its jeweled jabots, which it called cliquet pins or brooches (named for the "click" made when the detachable ornament is snapped on to the pin). Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.

Art Deco Platinum, Diamond, and Enamel Jabot Pin

Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Platinum Watch/Brooch

An American Art Deco platinum and enamel watch/brooch with diamonds, rubies and emeralds by Tiffany & Co. The watch/brooch has 215 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.65 carats, and 14 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, 20 square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .90 carat, 6 cabochon rubies and 1 carved bead ruby with an approximate total weight of .52 carat and 11 cabochon and calibre-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of .33 carat. "The style for decorative arts of the 1920''s was streamlined; form was reduced to basic geometry and the color palette was made strong and bold as opposed to the delicate pastels that were fashionable in the decades before the war. This trend became solidly established at the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, Industriels et Modernes, where visitors were electrified by the explosion of contrasting primary colors, geometric pattern and stylized natural subjects that burst on the scene," Falino and Markowitz. Similar pictured and discussed in American Luxury Jewels from the House of Tiffany, by Falino and Markowitz, editors, Antique Collectors'' Club, 2009, page 144, Plate 91. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.

Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Platinum Watch/Brooch

Raymond Yard Retro Peridot Pink Sapphire Amethyst and Gold Flower Brooch

An American Retro 14 karat gold brooch with peridots, pink sapphires and amethyst by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 20 mixed cuts peridots with an approximate total weight of 8.00 carats, a 6 mixed cuts pink sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats, a cabochon amethyst with an approximate total weight of .50 carats. The brooch is designed in a highly stylized Retro flower motif. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, the Vendome Press, 2007, page 221, Plate 316.

Raymond Yard Retro Peridot Pink Sapphire Amethyst and Gold Flower Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond Sapphire and Platinum ''Camilla'' Brooch

A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Camellia" brooch has 113 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 40 round & oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 22.00 carats. The sapphires are most likely of Burma origin. "At the same time as the Indian influence a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips (and brooches), leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds." Evelyne Possémé in the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition catalogues. Pictured with rubies and diamonds as earrings in Van Cleef & Arpels L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mid-20th Century Diamond Sapphire and Platinum ''Camilla'' Brooch

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Swirl'' Brooch

An Italian Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Bulgari. The brooch has 87 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in an openwork dimensional swirl motif.

Bulgari Mid-20th Century Diamond and Gold ''Swirl'' Brooch

Cartier London Mid-20th Century Citrine and Gold Flower Brooch

An English, Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with citrine stones by Cartier London. The brooch has 8 pear-cut citrines with an approximate total weight of 20.00 carats, 8 round-cut citrines with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, and 1 round-cut center citrine with an approximate total weight of 6.75 carats. Total approximate weight of the brooch is 30.75 carats. The brooch is designed in a stylized, bursting chrysanthemum motif.

Cartier London Mid-20th Century Citrine and Gold Flower Brooch

Bucellati "Thistle Flower" Brooch

An Italian Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch by Buccellati. The brooch, which is executed in different tones of gold, is a fine early example of the brand''s oft-visited "Thistle Flower" motif. With original Buccellati Box.

Bucellati 'Thistle Flower' Brooch

Belle Epoque Tennis Brooch with Ruby Diamond and Pearl

An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with rubies, diamonds and pearls. The fetching sporting brooch features two tennis rackets, cleverly executed in both platinum and gold for various parts of their hardware, and studded with diamonds and rubies on their respective handles. The brooch comes with two delicate pearls that serve as the tennis balls these rackets would naturally seek. The rose cut diamonds have an approximate total weight of .12 carat and the calibre-cut rubies have the approximate total weight of .20 carat.

Belle Epoque Tennis Brooch with Ruby Diamond and Pearl

Sterlé Diamond and Platinum Double Clip/Brooch

A pair of French Mid-20th Century platinum double clips/brooches with diamonds by Pierre Sterlé. The pair of double clips/brooches have 140 round-cut and 118 rectangular-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 27.30 carats. They have a G/H color and VS clarity grade. Illustrated in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, 1990, in ''Les Broches'' section.

Sterlé Diamond and Platinum Double Clip/Brooch

Blue Calcedony, Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald Brooch/Necklace by Suzanne Belperron

A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.

Blue Calcedony, Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald Brooch/Necklace by Suzanne Belperron

Van Cleef and Arpels Elephant Brooch

A French 18 karat gold elephant brooch with coral and enamel by Van Cleef and Arpels. A novelty brooch of an elephant with oval-cut emerald eyes that have the approximate total weight of .24 carat, carved white coral tusks and black enamel feet, in textured 18 karat yellow gold.

Van Cleef and Arpels Elephant Brooch

Art Nouveau Brooch with Aquamarine, Diamond and plique-à-jour Enamel by Lalique

"L''Anémone des Bois", A French Art Nouveau masterwork by René Lalique. Created in 1897, this 18 karat gold brooch showcases Lalique''s mastery of "plique-à-jour" enamel and also represents one of his earliest explorations of the art of molded glass. The brooch is accented by two oval faceted aquamarines weighing approximately 8.10 and 3.75 carats. More than any technical mastery or gemological import, the brooch is distinguished by its aesthetics and its deep meaning. This exquisite "Anémones des Bois" Brooch is an important example of René Lalique''s early work, predating his international debut at the Exposition Universelle of 1900. While his most prolific version of the anemone motif was the "Anémone couronnée" or poppy anemone, only a few choice pieces depict the "Anémone des Bois" or wood anemone. Unlike the poppy anemone, which grew in the balmy Mediterranean summer, the Anémone des Bois was known to the French as the harbinger of spring. While the forest floor lay dormant, the wood anemone alone reared its small head. Areas where the poor could pick this humble flower were demarcated with signs reading "Les Halles." The Anémone des Bois lined the border of the forest, enticing promenading couples into the forest''s embrace for an afternoon tryst. Pure white anemones thus became a symbol of virginal purity, mourning its imminent profanity by carnal desire. Lalique ... knew these traditions well from spending his childhood and summer holidays in the commune of Aÿ in Marne, located on a plateau overlooking the hillsides of Champagne. Two forests dominated the Marne landscape. To the west lay the old-growth forest of Sermiers, and to the east lay La forêt domaniale du Chêne à la Vierge. Promenading in the forest was a popular Sunday pastime for locals, especially as a way to escape the unrelenting dry heat of the noonday sun. Lalique expanded upon the theme of carnal desire, using the anemone to allegorize the stages of courtship. Our Anémone des Bois marked the beginning of this five-year-long exploration. With its petals slightly closed, the flower embodies the initial "rejet" or rejection of love. Fitting of a depiction of "rejet" the work epitomizes divine symmetry and youthful vigor. The flower''s posture relates to local wisdom: villagers could tell rain was coming when the Anémone des Bois closed its petals. By closing its petals, the flower rebuffs the words and sexual advances of the man. The second anemone in the series has its petals in disarray but receptive to potential pollination. An anemone in this position embodied "l''acceptation de l''amour" or the acceptance of love. The third anemone is the most sensual of the series, two anemones approach a passionate kiss, embodying the "consommation" or consummation. The final anemone in the series was completed in 1901. Titled "Mort de l''anémone" it is Lalique''s only representation of the blue anemone. Through the consummation, its petals have been dyed and its purity defiled. In macabre detail, the skeletal structure of the anemone''s rhizomes, or underground stems, are put on full view. The plant has been uprooted, and the encounter has finished. Contemporary novelist Émile Pouvillon related the death of the anemone to the act of deflowering in his 1895 short story "Les Anémones sont Mortes." The story''s heroine, a young country girl, loses herself in a bout of unrestrained euphoria with her lover. In their rolling about, "Anémones des Bois" are ripped out and bruised. At the 1898 Salon, the first Anémone des Bois was a critical triumph. Displayed with the second and third anemone in the series, the first was favored for its fully articulated plique-à-jour leaves. In the premier French decorative arts magazine Art et Décoration, the Anémone des Bois was praised for its "candid whiteness" and leaves that suggest "an infinitely complicated and precious architecture." Our Anémone des Bois is resplendent with the technical acuity that made Lalique known as the "master of modern bijoux (jewelry.)" In his early years, Lalique personally designed and modeled each mold for his creations in clay. These molds were then cast in iron and coated with a paste of resin and beeswax, hand-tooled for detail. The finish pressed-glass jewel was submerged in a bath of hydrofluoric acid, frosting the exterior. A thin layer of "jade green" powdered enamel was sifted and annealed onto the piece. The venation of each petal was painstakingly cut, revealing the plain crystal underneath. The warm glow of the gold backing gives the piece a breathtaking amber hue.

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Art Nouveau Brooch with Aquamarine, Diamond and plique-à-jour Enamel by Lalique

Tiffany & Co. Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with rubies and diamonds by Boucher for Tiffany & Co. The brooch has 27 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.45 carats, and 9 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .85 carats. The brooch is designed in a modified shell form.

Tiffany & Co. Mid-20th Century Ruby, Diamond and Gold Brooch

A Pair of Multi-Gemstone Brooches by Rene Boivin

A set of two of French Art Deco 18 karat gold "lilac-leaf" clip brooches,the larger set with oval-cut green tourmalines, yellow heliodor beryls, yellow-gray beryls and aquamarines, highlighted by a single-cut diamond stem set in platinum, the second set with circular and oval-cut pink tourmalines, pale amethysts, and green tourmalines, both with medium-relief naturalistic modeling, by René Boivin. Executed under the leadership of famed Boivin designer Juliette Moutard, these spectacular pieces are as significant in the history of high jewelry as they are beautiful. These elegant brooches demonstrate the height of Moutard''s particular style: the refined, geometrically-rendered organic shape of the lilac leaf, the sensitive and masterful employment of color gradation, and the interplay of complementary shapes are all hallmarks of Moutard''s work for Boivin. The brooches have oval-cut tourmalines, green and yellow beryl, which together have and approximate total weight of 42.25 carats; aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats; and 30 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat. With authenticity report from expert Francoise Cailles. Boivin''s work is a remarkable exception to many of the presiding trends of the 1930s. For one, the house eschewed the stark, monotonous, and highly geometric Art Deco stye. While other firms continued ... to churn out architecturally clean designs in diamond and platinum, Boivin maintained their commitment to celebrating color and the organic forms of the natural world. Also notable, and unusual for the time, is that Boivin was an all-female led firm. After the premature death of René Boivin in 1917, the firm would be led until its dissolution by his widow, Jeanne Boivin, and a host of brilliant female designers, among them Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin,

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A Pair of Multi-Gemstone Brooches by Rene Boivin

Retro Bangle Bracelet by Cartier

An 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond Retro bangle bracelet by Cartier. The central motif of foliate design, surrounds a European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.50 carats. It can be worn as a brooch or hinged on the bracelet. Some of the petals are pavé-set with diamonds while others are highlighted by baguette diamonds. Mounted in 18 karat yellow gold. The brooch signed Cartier London, J.C. and numbered 9874, the bangle signed J.C. and numbered 9874. The piece has 200 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 19.20 carats; the center diamond being 2.50 carats in approximate total weight. A similar bracelet is pictured in "Amazing Cartier" by Nadine Coleno, page 107.

Retro Bangle Bracelet by Cartier

"Sombrero" Brooch by Schlumberger

A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Sombrero" brooch with diamonds and sapphires by Schlumberger for Tiffany and Co. The brooch has round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.95 carats, and round- and oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 12.00 carats. Made in France, with French assay and maker''s marks

'Sombrero' Brooch by Schlumberger

Louis Zorra French Art Nouveau Plique-à-Jour Enamel, Gold and Freshwater Pearl Pendant

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant/brooch with freshwater pearl drop and plique-à-jour enamel, depicting a maiden in profile against a sky with clouds and framed with pink poppy blossoms by Louis Zorra. The serpentine clouds, the woman''s abundant tresses, and the flower tendrils all follow the organic curvilinear line associated with Art Nouveau. Nature, flowers and women are themes that were often explored in tandem by fin-de-siècle artists. Here they function together to create a harmonious and picturesque scene that delights the eye. Pictured in "The French Aesthetic, Art Nouveau", by Victor Arwas, Andreas Papadakis, page 346.

Louis Zorra French Art Nouveau Plique-à-Jour Enamel, Gold and Freshwater Pearl Pendant

Sweeping Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

A French 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The sweeping brooch features 56 stunning F/G color and VVS/VS clarity diamonds graduating from .02 carat to .60 carat, with an approximate total weight of 7.75 carats. The piece also features 30 fantastically matched rubies approximate total weight of 3.10 carats, 24 clean emeralds approximate total weight 2.25 carats, and 9 blue sapphires, with the approximate total weight .85 carat. All framed by delicate twisted gold work.

Sweeping Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

Stylized Flower Bouquet Brooch by Cartier

A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond clip brooch, Monture Cartier. The brooch is designed as a stylized ropetwist floral spray with diamond blossoms and gold leaves, highlighted by 21 Old European-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, approximate total weight 5.00 carats, suspending a ropetwist tassel with acorn pendant. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H/I color grade. Mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum. The clip brooch was manufactured by the Cartier workshop Dubois, who produced some of the most remarkable pieces of "tutti fruitI" and other Indian inspired jewelry for the firm.

Stylized Flower Bouquet Brooch by Cartier

Art Nouveau Gold and Platinum Pendant

A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and platinum pendant brooch with diamonds and freshwater pearl. A remarkable early use of platinum, this Art Nouveau pendant features intricate, sinuous scrolls of gold in a psuedo-Celtic design, terminating in blooming branches of diamond-studded platinum. These rose cut diamonds have the approximate total weight of .20 carat. The piece features one old European-cut center diamond that has the approximate weight of .25 carat and a hanging 3.5mm freshwater pearl drop. Attributed to Maurice Dufrène

Art Nouveau Gold and Platinum Pendant

Gold Clip Brooch with Calibre-Cut Sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels

A convertible French 18 karat gold clip brooch with calibre-cut sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch, convertible into a set of three, is highlighted by channel-set lines of 22 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats. In this set of three-in-one convertible clips, Van Cleef & Arpels captures the spirit of the 1940s - curvaceous, streamlined, and intriguingly asymmetrical. The dynamic clips with their reverse curves, bound by lines of angular sapphires, are a jewelry echo of the avant garde sculpture of the period. A similar set of brooches, known as the "Joined Wave", is pictured in Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, p. 62, and was shown at the eponymous exhibition at the Smithsonian''s Cooper Hewitt in New York, in 2011.

Gold Clip Brooch with Calibre-Cut Sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels

Platinum and Aquamarine Late Art Deco Brooch by Cartier

A French late Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds and aquamarine by Cartier Paris. The brooch has 80 round, square and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.90 carats, centering on a hexangular aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 35.20 carats.

Platinum and Aquamarine Late Art Deco Brooch by Cartier

Art Nouveau Hair Comb featuring Carved Horn by Elizabeth Bonté.

A French Art Nouveau hair comb with carved horn by Elizabeth Bonté. The hair comb features two cicadas in carved horn amidst foliage. The comb has five teeth. Elizabeth Bonté was an Art Nouveau designer educated at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, and an acknowledged master of unusual and beautiful organic materials in jewels. She was an early proponent of the use of horn, a light and pliable but extraordinarily difficult material that, once mastered, could be tinted, molded and given a skin-like patina. Here the horn has been carved, shaped and colored to represent a pair of cicadas perched among fruiting olive branches and leaves. For years, Bonté''s main rival was a man, Georges Pierre, who ultimately joined her studio. They combined forces, collaborating until 1936.

Art Nouveau Hair Comb featuring Carved Horn by Elizabeth Bonté.

René Boivin "Feuille" Brooch

A French 18 karat gold and sapphire "Feuille" clip brooch, by René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard. The flexible leaf form set with 31 oval and cushion-cut sapphires, further enhanced by 32 circular-cut sapphires, approximate total weight 124.00 carats. In the 1930s, the creative women at the House of Boivin turned to naturalistic themes, among them flowers and leaves, just as most mainstream jewelers were abandoning such motifs. So often the source of inspiration for her young designers, Madame Boivin brought back armfuls of leaves from her long walks in the forest, and encouraged Juliette to introduce them into her jewelry designs. Typical of Moutard''s eye for color, the sapphires subtly shift in hue and tone, ranging from pale violet and indigo to cornflower blue. Moutard selected and positioned them to reflect the multiple variegations of a natural creation. The sapphire leaf, articulated to move luxuriously, drapes from similarly-toned circular-cut sapphire and gold veins. With certificate of authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, dated 2 May 2017, stating that the brooch is the work of the House of René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard.

René Boivin 'Feuille' Brooch

American Safety Pin Brooch

An American modern safety pin brooch in 14 and 18 karat bi-color gold with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. The 14 karat bi-color gold safety pin, suspending fourteen 18 karat gold gem-set and diamond hearts, has 36 round brilliant-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 2.16 carats, as well as 9 emeralds and 9 rubies. This whimsical brooch with its freely dangling line of gemmy hearts represents a charming tradition of wearing safety pins to symbolize love, protection and unity.

American Safety Pin Brooch

Henry Dunay Multi-Gemstone Brooch

An American Contemporary 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, emeralds, amethysts, turquoise and coral by Henry Dunay. The piece is a beautiful and playful array of cabochon amethyst, turquoise and coral set in twisted gold bezels, accented with raised, gold-framed diamonds and organized in an arresting organic lozenge shape. The brooch has 34 white round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats, 10 cabochon emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 16 cabochon amethysts, 12 cabochon turquoise, 4 cabochon coral. Pendant attachment on back.

Henry Dunay Multi-Gemstone Brooch