A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant by André Rambour. The pendant depicts a maiden within an enamel iris which is suspended by fancy link chain and an enameled foliate top.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant with diamonds, pearls and peridots. The pendant features a plique-à-jour background with rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, 3 freshwater pearls and 3 pear and round-cut peridots with enamel decoration surrounding the profile of Juliet.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019. Note: This exquisite Art Nouveau image depicts Juliet at the moment when Romeo, lingering in the Montague''s garden, catches sight of her on her balcony. She is illuminated by the dawn light, represented in the jewel by the sparkling diamonds framing her head and the panes of glowing plique-a-jour enamel behind her. Though he first sees Juliet dancing with another man, Romeo is not put off, predicting that their love will prove "a beauteous flower" and identifying her with light: "she teaches the torches to burn bright". Meanwhile, behind a veneer of obedience, Juliette, resolute, witty, and loyal, chooses independence in death over life with the man her father has commanded her to marry. In part thanks to his captivating and complex woman heroes like Juliet, Shakespeare "went global" in the 19th century, inspiring world artists not only in drama but painting, printmaking, fiction, music and jewelry.
An Art Nouveau 14 karat gold and enamel pendant locket with diamonds. The pendant is decorated with 10 old mine- and single-cut diamonds with the approximate total weight of .30 carats. The relief cover depicts a winged nymph blowing two horns. Engraved in script, "BJ June 29, 1904" on back cover. Chain is a later period addition.Pictured in Masterpieces of American Jewelry, by Judith Price, Echo Point Books & Media, LLC, 2004, page 28.Note: Women at the turn of the century would have quickly identified this figure playing the double flute as Euterpe, the classical muse of musical inspiration. Women were, in fact, the new celebrities of the music world. Since the mid-19th century, woman singers had been blazing a trail through it, as composers began to write parts for sopranos and altos, parts that had previously been reserved for male countertenors. Women star singers dominated the stage, receiving high artistic praise from the newspaper critics. Actively and thoughtfully managing their own careers, they cultivated devoted followers, staging brilliant publicity stunts, quickly rising to the challenge of independence. They realized the need to control their images, and insisted on oversight of costume design, aware that every appearance was critical. This jewel''s musical muse, depicted in the midst of performance and transformation, was a symbolic celebration of women''s daring achievements in this newly opened world for them.
An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail.The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black
opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A French Art Nouveau gold and plique-à-jour enamel pendant with opals, freshwater and natural pearls by Georges Fouquet. The pendant has 11 opals, 13 freshwater pearls and one natural saltwater pearl. The pendant is designed in a flowing foliate motif with plique-à-jour enamel leaves floating over translucent opals and decorated with clusters of pearls. With signed G. Fouquet box.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
An American Art Nouveau enamel, 14 karat bloomed gold and diamond pendant locket. The figure on the heart-shaped pendant locket wears an old European-cut diamond ''earring'' with an approximate weight of .04 carat. The uniquely-shaped pendant locket has double-sided compartments.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold link long chain. The link chain is formed of 145 lozenge-shaped links which have wire arabesque motif overlay. The attached shield-shaped medallion depicts Joan of Arc at the Coronation of Charles VII in 1429.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and silver 4 inch pendant with diamonds and freshwater pearls suspended from a 29 inch 18 karat gold chain with 8 freshwater pearls. The pendant has 40 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .40 carat, and 13 freshwater pearls. The articulated pendant is designed in a stylized wisteria motif.
Signed: French Import mark
Dimensions: Chain: 29" length; pendant 3-3/4" length x 1-7/8" maximum width
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant/brooch with freshwater pearl drop and plique-à-jour enamel, depicting a maiden in profile against a sky with clouds and framed with pink poppy blossoms by Louis Zorra. The serpentine clouds, the woman''s abundant tresses, and the flower tendrils all follow the organic curvilinear line associated with Art Nouveau. Nature, flowers and women are themes that were often explored in tandem by fin-de-siècle artists. Here they function together to create a harmonious and picturesque scene that delights the eye. Pictured in "The French Aesthetic, Art Nouveau", by Victor Arwas, Andreas Papadakis, page 346.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant locket with mother-of-pearl and diamond. The oval pendant locket designed with baroque mother-of-pearl plaques among swirling seaweed with subtle chased detail, two old mine-cut diamond highlights, approximate total weight 0.16 carats, swiveling open to a locket compartment, suspended from a conforming 14 karat gold chain of oval and circular trace links highlighted by seed pearls (28 inch chain of later manufacture).Note: This work strongly resembles that of Edouard Colonna, a restless, influential, still mysterious Art Nouveau designer, master of a variety of artistic media. His rich and interesting early career was spent in the United States, where he quickly found a position with Louis Comfot Tiffany''s "Associated Artists" interior design firm. While in the U.S. and Canada, Colonna created design books, later viewed as anticipating the decorative language of the Art Nouveau movement. The design volumes drew influences from sources as diverse as broom-corn and other botanical subjects to funerary sculpture from Ravenna. The acme of his career, from 1898-1902, was spent in Paris at L''Art Nouveau Gallery of Siegfried Bing, for whom Colonna designed a salon at the 1900 World Exposition. In a burst of creative energy, Colonna also produced elegant, quietly sensuous jewels integrating highly stylized botanical motifs, which won critical acclaim. Many of the jewels were executed at Bing''s Paris workshop.
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