A French Art Deco platinum ring with peridot and diamonds by René Boivin. The ring centers on a cushion-cut peridot with an approximate weight of 3.25 carats, surrounded by 60 pavé set round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. With Certificate of Authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, expert for Boivin. René Boivin has been one of the most significant jewelry houses for the best part of a century since its late 19th Century beginnings under its founder Jules René Boivin. The significant legacy is due in no small measure to Jeanne Boivin, who took over her husband''s business after his death in 1917. Rather than wholly embracing the Art Deco trend that engulfed the rest of the French jewelry world in the late 1920s and early 1930s, she was also inspired by the exoticism that was enchanting the likes of Picasso and Paul Gauguin. Remaining close to the design greats such as Sandoz or Fouquet, she added her own feminine eye to the movement''s ideals with the help of Suzanne Belperron from 1921 to 1932. The Boivin house would go on to create many spectacular jewels famously inspired by nature and sea life. A similar ring is pictured in "Rene Boivin Jeweller", by Françoise Cailles, Quartet Books, 1994.
A French Art Nouveau marquetry commode by Émile Gallé. With original key. The syncretic influence of Japanese art is keenly felt in Gallé''s commode. The beginning of Galle''s fascination with Japanese art can be traced back to his friendship with Hokkai Takashima (1850-1931), a fellow botanist and member of the École de Nancy. Their botanical dialogue was facilitated by the Shokobutsu mei-i, a book of Japanese names for botanical species. It is from Hokkai that Gallé gained a spiritual and symbolic understanding of nature. Along with other École de Nancy artists, Hokkai and Gallé exhibited together in the display window of René Wiener''s papeterie. The store served as the office of Wiener''s arts journal, the Nancy artiste, which regularly featured on its covers contemporary examples of Gansai (Japanese watercolor), Byobu (folding screens) from the Rinpa school, Sumi-e (ink painting), and Ukiyo-e (woodblock prints). As a show of gratitude, Hokkai bequeathed a vast art book collection to Wiener. It is from this record that we know with certainty of which Japanese artists Gallé had knowledge. One of the books in Hokkai''s collection was Hokusai''s Les cent paysages du Fuji (Fugaku hyakkei.) This 1835 expansion of Hokusai''s 36 views of Mount Fuji contained more elaborate iterations of his original compositions. The commode features two drawers and four cabriole legs.
The front of the drawers features a marquetry panel with mountains, unkai (sea of clouds) and usugumo (wisps of clouds) motifs. It is likely from works like Hokusai''s Yama mata yama (Mountains Upon Mountains) that Gallé assimilated the unkai (??) motif. The Yama mata yama is the album''s only zenithal view, allowing this phenomenon which is normally only visible from high elevations. On the top of the commode, a sunset mirage overlooks the entire scene. Meanwhile in the foreground, Gallé has included a usugumo motif rendered in warm brown wood. The wisps of cloud motif originates in a stanza in the Tale of Genji in his mourning for Fujitsubo. Those thin wisps of cloud trailing there over Mountains caught in sunset light Seem to wish to match their hue To the sleeves of the bereaved. There is a distinct temporal quality in the commode''s composition. The left side panel depicts a diurne while the right side panel depicts a nocturne. The juxtaposition of day and night in Japanese ukiyo-e was a subject much beloved by Hokusai and Hiroshige and was termed chuya (chu meaning day and ya meaning night). The Japanese nocturne was clearly a subject of great fascination to Gallé as well as evidenced by his "Nuit Japonais" vase. A similar commode is pictured in: "Gallé Furniture", by Alastair Duncan and Georges de Bartha, Woodbridge, Suffolk: Antique Collectors'' Club, 2012, p. 329, plate 15.
A pair of French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with white diamonds and fancy colored diamonds by René Boivin. The textured gold earrings are a wide open tear drop studded with variously-colored fancy diamonds. A large decorative ''X'' of gold and white diamonds encircles the bottom of the earring, making them fully dimensional. The earrings have 118 round brilliant-cut white and fancy color diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.40 carats.
"L''Anémone des Bois", A French Art Nouveau masterwork by René Lalique. Created in 1897, this 18 karat gold brooch showcases Lalique''s mastery of "plique-à-jour" enamel and also represents one of his earliest explorations of the art of molded glass. The brooch is accented by two oval faceted aquamarines weighing approximately 8.10 and 3.75 carats. More than any technical mastery or gemological import, the brooch is distinguished by its aesthetics and its deep meaning. This exquisite "Anémones des Bois" Brooch is an important example of René Lalique''s early work, predating his international debut at the Exposition Universelle of 1900. While his most prolific version of the anemone motif was the "Anémone couronnée" or poppy anemone, only a few choice pieces depict the "Anémone des Bois" or wood anemone. Unlike the poppy anemone, which grew in the balmy Mediterranean summer, the Anémone des Bois was known to the French as the harbinger of spring. While the forest floor lay dormant, the wood anemone alone reared its small head. Areas where the poor could pick this humble flower were demarcated with signs reading "Les Halles." The Anémone des Bois lined the border of the forest, enticing promenading couples into the forest''s embrace for an afternoon tryst. Pure white anemones thus became a symbol of virginal purity, mourning its imminent profanity by carnal desire. Lalique
knew these traditions well from spending his childhood and summer holidays in the commune of Aÿ in Marne, located on a plateau overlooking the hillsides of Champagne. Two forests dominated the Marne landscape. To the west lay the old-growth forest of Sermiers, and to the east lay La forêt domaniale du Chêne à la Vierge. Promenading in the forest was a popular Sunday pastime for locals, especially as a way to escape the unrelenting dry heat of the noonday sun. Lalique expanded upon the theme of carnal desire, using the anemone to allegorize the stages of courtship. Our Anémone des Bois marked the beginning of this five-year-long exploration. With its petals slightly closed, the flower embodies the initial "rejet" or rejection of love. Fitting of a depiction of "rejet" the work epitomizes divine symmetry and youthful vigor. The flower''s posture relates to local wisdom: villagers could tell rain was coming when the Anémone des Bois closed its petals. By closing its petals, the flower rebuffs the words and sexual advances of the man. The second anemone in the series has its petals in disarray but receptive to potential pollination. An anemone in this position embodied "l''acceptation de l''amour" or the acceptance of love. The third anemone is the most sensual of the series, two anemones approach a passionate kiss, embodying the "consommation" or consummation. The final anemone in the series was completed in 1901. Titled "Mort de l''anémone" it is Lalique''s only representation of the blue anemone. Through the consummation, its petals have been dyed and its purity defiled. In macabre detail, the skeletal structure of the anemone''s rhizomes, or underground stems, are put on full view. The plant has been uprooted, and the encounter has finished. Contemporary novelist Émile Pouvillon related the death of the anemone to the act of deflowering in his 1895 short story "Les Anémones sont Mortes." The story''s heroine, a young country girl, loses herself in a bout of unrestrained euphoria with her lover. In their rolling about, "Anémones des Bois" are ripped out and bruised. At the 1898 Salon, the first Anémone des Bois was a critical triumph. Displayed with the second and third anemone in the series, the first was favored for its fully articulated plique-à-jour leaves. In the premier French decorative arts magazine Art et Décoration, the Anémone des Bois was praised for its "candid whiteness" and leaves that suggest "an infinitely complicated and precious architecture." Our Anémone des Bois is resplendent with the technical acuity that made Lalique known as the "master of modern bijoux (jewelry.)" In his early years, Lalique personally designed and modeled each mold for his creations in clay. These molds were then cast in iron and coated with a paste of resin and beeswax, hand-tooled for detail. The finish pressed-glass jewel was submerged in a bath of hydrofluoric acid, frosting the exterior. A thin layer of "jade green" powdered enamel was sifted and annealed onto the piece. The venation of each petal was painstakingly cut, revealing the plain crystal underneath. The warm glow of the gold backing gives the piece a breathtaking amber hue.
A set of two of French Art Deco 18 karat gold "lilac-leaf" clip brooches,the larger set with oval-cut green tourmalines, yellow heliodor beryls, yellow-gray beryls and aquamarines, highlighted by a single-cut diamond stem set in platinum, the second set with circular and oval-cut pink tourmalines, pale amethysts, and green tourmalines, both with medium-relief naturalistic modeling, by René Boivin. Executed under the leadership of famed Boivin designer Juliette Moutard, these spectacular pieces are as significant in the history of high jewelry as they are beautiful. These elegant brooches demonstrate the height of Moutard''s particular style: the refined, geometrically-rendered organic shape of the lilac leaf, the sensitive and masterful employment of color gradation, and the interplay of complementary shapes are all hallmarks of Moutard''s work for Boivin. The brooches have oval-cut tourmalines, green and yellow beryl, which together have and approximate total weight of 42.25 carats; aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats; and 30 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat. With authenticity report from expert Francoise Cailles. Boivin''s work is a remarkable exception to many of the presiding trends of the 1930s. For one, the house eschewed the stark, monotonous, and highly geometric Art Deco stye. While other firms continued
to churn out architecturally clean designs in diamond and platinum, Boivin maintained their commitment to celebrating color and the organic forms of the natural world. Also notable, and unusual for the time, is that Boivin was an all-female led firm. After the premature death of René Boivin in 1917, the firm would be led until its dissolution by his widow, Jeanne Boivin, and a host of brilliant female designers, among them Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin,
A French 18 karat gold and sapphire "Feuille" clip brooch, by René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard. The flexible leaf form set with 31 oval and cushion-cut sapphires, further enhanced by 32 circular-cut sapphires, approximate total weight 124.00 carats. In the 1930s, the creative women at the House of Boivin turned to naturalistic themes, among them flowers and leaves, just as most mainstream jewelers were abandoning such motifs. So often the source of inspiration for her young designers, Madame Boivin brought back armfuls of leaves from her long walks in the forest, and encouraged Juliette to introduce them into her jewelry designs. Typical of Moutard''s eye for color, the sapphires subtly shift in hue and tone, ranging from pale violet and indigo to cornflower blue. Moutard selected and positioned them to reflect the multiple variegations of a natural creation. The sapphire leaf, articulated to move luxuriously, drapes from similarly-toned circular-cut sapphire and gold veins. With certificate of authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, dated 2 May 2017, stating that the brooch is the work of the House of René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard.
An 18 karat gold and diamond bracelet "Fisch Scale" watch by René Boivin.The bombé band designed as a series of articulated "fishscale" links, set with 252 rose-cut diamonds interspersed with old mine, old European, and table-cut diamonds, approximate total weight of 42.25 carats, opening to reveal a circular watch signed Jaeger-Le Coultre.The bracelet is executed in Boivin''s famous fish-scale design, with angled, overlapping tiers of variously cut antique diamonds in a continuous motif concealing a watch. The elegant watch dial is covered by an invisibly hinged panel, creating a continuous elegant and functional design.
A French Art Nouveau silver foil-backed molded glass brooch set in brass. The molded glass features a motif of embracing pheasants with elongated, twisting tail feathers. Signed LALIQUE. Pictured in René Lalique maitre-verrier 1860-1945, by Felix Marchilhack, Les editionsde l/amateur, 1989, page 549, Plate 1391.
A Tiffany Studios New York Art Nouveau "Magnolia", gold, white, pink, red, and green enamel on copper vase, by Louis Comfort Tiffany. This bespoke "Magnolia" enamel vase was designed from watercolor renderings and photographs from the enamel department''s lead designer, Agnes Northrop. Northrop depicted the saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangiana) on this enamel vase, an Asian variety that was hybridized in France and then introduced in this country in the early nineteenth century. Magnolias were among Tiffany''s favorite flowers, so much so that three "Magnolia" window panels decorated his first 72nd Street home and his garden estate, Laurelton Hall. In an interview for Town and Country Magazine, Tiffany compared his enameled vases against sapphires, topaz, opal, aquamarine, and other stones, and concluded that the enamels "showed much more depth and perspective than were found in the stones", an insight sensitively demonstrated in this monumental and masterful vase.Tiffany took a painterly, impressionist approach to his enamel work, in intentional contrast to renowned Japonesque and Renaissance Revival masters like Eugene Richet (enamel master for the house of Fontenay), Antoine Tard (enamel master for the house of Falize), and Paul Briançon (House of René Lalique). Much in the way that Tiffany used gemstones in his early jewels as mere means to achieve color effects and mome
ntary impressions of nature, here, his use of opulent, varicolored enamel conveys the essence of the flowers on the verge of full bloom, already overspilling the form.There was some minor touch up to the enamel at the top, otherwise it''s in lovely original condition. This Magnolia vase was exhibited in the Japanese leg of the Tiffany Masterworks exhibition that originated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art several years ago.
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