A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Clematis" brooch with diamonds and Mediterranean red coral by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 8 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .64 carat forming the cluster center, surrounded by a yellow gold stamen, and 5 Mediterranean red coral petals. The flower has a polished gold stem and textured gold leaf. Of a similar motif as the ''Rose de Noel'' Collection. Circa 1960''s. A similar brooch is pictured in Living Jewels, by Ruth Peltason, Vendome Press, 2010, page 173.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ''Two Feathers'' brooch has 41 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.35 carats, G/H color, VS clarity.This brooch was first introduced in 1954 and has become an iconic piece for Van Cleef & Arpels. Similar pictured in Set in Style The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, with contributions by Suzy Menkes (and) Ruth Peltason, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 221 (Similar). The pictured ''Two Feathers'' brooch is made in platinum, Mystery-set sapphires and diamonds,
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold, multi colored raised enamel "Peacock" cigarette case with concealed integrated latch button and hinge by Alfred Langlois. Alfred Langlois was among Van Cleef & Arpels most talented boîtiers, or box makers. Beginning in 1927, Langlois produced "highly sophisticated enamel decoration in Chinese taste and... Persian carpet-like design, along with a nécessaire of more abstract Deco design with carpet-like rectangles and diamond ice pyramids, predominantly in enamel", Sarah Coffin, in Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels. The original drawing for the case exists in the Van Cleef & Arpels archives in Paris. Discussed and similar pictured in The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 24 (discussion), 152 (photograph).
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat and platinum gold ''Hawaii'' brooch with diamonds, rubies and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 15 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats, 10 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, and 36 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats. This stylized spray of blossoms and leaves is part of Van Cleef''s celebrated "Hawaii" series, designed as "naive, loose bunches of flowers" meant to capture the post-war spirit of liberation and rejuvenation.With Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity stating: "According to a visual appraisal and to the Van Cleef & Arpels Archives, the item illustrated and described below bearing the engraved numbers NY22818.2...the item illustrated and described has been identified as a Van Cleef & Arpels creation." "A ''Hawaii'' clip set with round diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Mounted in platinum, yellow gold and white gold. 1954."
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ''Capillaire'' brooch with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 74 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, E/F/G color, VS clarity. A similar brooch is pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, The Art of High Jewelry, by Evelyne Posseme, editor, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 152.
A French 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The brooch has 23 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.30 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in a modernist motif of ''krinkled'' hammered gold, with one section of the brooch platinum and diamond-set.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Camellia" brooch has 113 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 40 round & oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 22.00 carats. The sapphires are most likely of Burma origin. "At the same time as the Indian influence a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips (and brooches), leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds." Evelyne Possémé in the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition catalogues. Pictured with rubies and diamonds as earrings in Van Cleef & Arpels L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.
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