An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail.The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black
opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant locket with mother-of-pearl and diamond. The oval pendant locket designed with baroque mother-of-pearl plaques among swirling seaweed with subtle chased detail, two old mine-cut diamond highlights, approximate total weight 0.16 carats, swiveling open to a locket compartment, suspended from a conforming 14 karat gold chain of oval and circular trace links highlighted by seed pearls (28 inch chain of later manufacture).Note: This work strongly resembles that of Edouard Colonna, a restless, influential, still mysterious Art Nouveau designer, master of a variety of artistic media. His rich and interesting early career was spent in the United States, where he quickly found a position with Louis Comfort Tiffany''s "Associated Artists" interior design firm. While in the U.S. and Canada, Colonna created design books, later viewed as anticipating the decorative language of the Art Nouveau movement. The design volumes drew influences from sources as diverse as broom-corn and other botanical subjects to funerary sculpture from Ravenna. The acme of his career, from 1898-1902, was spent in Paris at L''Art Nouveau Gallery of Siegfried Bing, for whom Colonna designed a salon at the 1900 World Exposition. In a burst of creative energy, Colonna also produced elegant, quietly sensuous jewels integrating highly stylized botanical motifs, which won critical acclaim. Many of the jewels were executed at Bing''s Paris workshop.
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