A pair of American Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with rubies and diamonds by David Webb. The earrings are composed of 3 leaves set with 48 round cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, and 18 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .72 carat. The foliate earrings are framed with twisted gold wire.
A pair of American Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ear clips with diamonds, rubies and turquoise. The earrings have 94 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, 32 cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of 4.10 carats, and 24 cabochon turquoise stones.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century earrings with diamonds and rubies by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings have 54 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, F/G color, VS clarity, and 54 round cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats. With signed Van Cleef & Arpels box.
A pair of American 18 karat gold earrings with sapphires, rubies and emeralds by David Webb. The earrings have 8 cabochon sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.40 carats, 4 rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.60 carats, and 2 emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats. The earrings illustrate the genius of Webb in his use of vivid color, volume, and invention of high late-20th Century design. Discussed in David Webb The Quintessential American Jeweler, by Ruth Peltason, Assouline, 2013.
A pair of Mid-20th Century platinum "Camélia" earrings with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The camellia flower earrings set with 36 sapphires, approximate total weight of 3.60 carats, and 86 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.90 carats, F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. Made in France, sold at Van Cleef & Arpels, New York. These striking flower earrings with highly three dimensional shaping are a modern interpretation of the iconic Asian flower which had so captured the European imagination in the 20th century, According to Évelyne Possémé, head curator at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, "At the same time as the Indian influence, a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips, leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds," Earclips of the same design as these, with rubies and diamonds, are pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels: L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Évelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.The French love affair with the camellia was sparked around 1800, when Empress Josephine Bonaparte began cultivating them in her palace garden at Malmaison. The conspicuous, opulent flower was quickly adopted by French fashionistas as a corsage ornament signifying love. More than the Empress herself, however, the passionate aficionado of the camellia was the romanti
c and mysterious Parisian courtesan Marie Du Plessis. While still in her late teens, Du Plessis was widely regarded a woman of beauty, intelligence, and wit. Self educated in literature and philosophy, discreet and private by nature, "La Dame aux Camélias" inspired Alexandre Dumas fils, Franz Liszt, and sundry aristocrats to throw themselves at her feet, and she gathered one of the great intellectual salons of the day at her home in Paris. When she died at just 23 years old, her history was immediately altered by Dumas to fit the old narrative of the fallen woman who redeems herself through self-sacrificing love for a younger man. A recent biographer, delving into the facts of Du Plessis'' brief, exceptional life, demolished most of Dumas'' fictions, but apparently her obsession with the extravagant flower was all too real: an intriguing file of Du Plessis'' rediscovered papers includes "numerous eye-popping bills" from the luxury Parisian florist who satisfied her boundless passion for red and white camellias.
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
A pair of diamond and ruby earrings set in platinum and 18 karat gold by Boucheron. The earrings are housed in their original box from the mid-20th century. They center on a semicircular raised cluster of 32 remarkably well matched round-cut rubies, with the total approximate weight 4.60 carats, surrounded by 30 round brilliant and 16 marquise-cut diamonds, approximate total weight 6.10 carats. The House of Boucheron was founded in 1858 by the young entrepreneur M. Frederic Boucheron, whose charming, generous nature and taste for daring design and superb gems attracted both the aristocracy and celebrities to his Paris salon. These bombé earclips, each composed of a tightly-set cluster of brilliant, rich red rubies within a scintillating diamond surround, represent a modern example of this classic French jeweler''s art.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds and blue sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels. The "Camellia" brooch has 113 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 40 round & oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 22.00 carats. The sapphires are most likely of Burma origin. "At the same time as the Indian influence a rather more classical vein was still found in earrings such as the Camellia clips (and brooches), leaves composed of bead and prong-set rubies (and sapphires) and diamonds." Evelyne Possémé in the Van Cleef & Arpels exhibition catalogues. Pictured with rubies and diamonds as earrings in Van Cleef & Arpels L''Art De La Haute Joaillerie, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 187.
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