An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
An American Retro 14 karat gold brooch with peridots, pink sapphires and amethyst by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 20 mixed cuts peridots with an approximate total weight of 8.00 carats, a 6 mixed cuts pink sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats, a cabochon amethyst with an approximate total weight of .50 carats. The brooch is designed in a highly stylized Retro flower motif. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, the Vendome Press, 2007, page 221, Plate 316.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
An 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond Retro bangle bracelet by Cartier. The central motif of foliate design, surrounds a European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.50 carats. It can be worn as a brooch or hinged on the bracelet. Some of the petals are pavé-set with diamonds while others are highlighted by baguette diamonds. Mounted in 18 karat yellow gold. The brooch signed Cartier London, J.C. and numbered 9874, the bangle signed J.C. and numbered 9874. The piece has 200 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 19.20 carats; the center diamond being 2.50 carats in approximate total weight. A similar bracelet is pictured in "Amazing Cartier" by Nadine Coleno, page 107.
A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond clip brooch, Monture Cartier. The brooch is designed as a stylized ropetwist floral spray with diamond blossoms and gold leaves, highlighted by 21 Old European-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, approximate total weight 5.00 carats, suspending a ropetwist tassel with acorn pendant. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H/I color grade. Mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum. The clip brooch was manufactured by the Cartier workshop Dubois, who produced some of the most remarkable pieces of "tutti fruitI" and other Indian inspired jewelry for the firm.
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