A Victorian silver-top 18 karat gold, diamond, emerald, ruby and pearl brooch, featuring a depiction of the penultimate scene from the fable "Jack and the Beanstalk" in which Jack lures the giant by stealing the mermaid''s harp. A baroque pearl forms the tail of a sculpted 18-karat gold mermaid decorating the base of a lyre outlined with old mine-cut diamonds. The strings of the lyre are accented with emeralds, rubies, diamonds and a sapphire weighing approximately .30, .30, 1.75, and .05 carats respectively.
An English Victorian 18 karat gold reverse crystal brooch. The finely painted crystal brooch represents ducks in lift-off. The yellow and red gold frame is decorated with dimensional pussy willows intertwined with ribbon. Reverse crystal intaglios are a rock crystal cabochon with an intaglio carved into the flat back and then painted realistically with oils, so that when, viewed from the top, the image has a three-dimensional effect. Finally, the back was sealed with mother-of-pearl, which preserved the painted areas. The motifs most commonly found were sporting themes -- horses, dogs, foxes and birds. The technique originated in Belgium c. 1860 and was popularized in England c. 1860''s by Thomas Cook.
This miniature representation of Renaissance Revival within the Art Nouveau period is set with a square black opal cabochon whose indigo and brilliant green swathes of color are echoed in its glowing enamel surround, highlighted by fleur-de-lis and scrolls. It would make a superb addition to any gentleman''s stick pin collection, or a glamorous gift for a showjumping or hunting equestrian to use as a stock tie pin.The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained with a prominent court jeweler in Dresden. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting for exceptiona
l gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black opal from Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes from the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-à-jour enamel was an art in which the firm excelled. Displaying a mastery equal to that of the French artists, they created jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard. The firm''s jewelry is a focus of the collection of the American Wing at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique à jour brooch with diamond, amethysts and pearl by Louis Zorra. The brooch has an old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .65 carat, 21 round bezel-set amethysts with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, and a hanging, enamel-capped pearl. Similar pictured in "Imperishable Beauty Art Nouveau Jewelry", by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Elyse Zorn Karlin, "MFA Publications Museum of Fine Arts", Boston, 2008, pages 8 and 68. "Zorra was possibly born in Italy, working in Paris during the Art Nouveau period)...he moved to Paris from Asti, Italy, and exhibited at the Salon des artistes français, receiving an honorable mention in 1902." Markowitz and Karlin in Imperishable Beauty, pg. 151.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum and 18 karat white gold brooch with diamonds and pearls by Pierre Sterlé. The brooch contains 300 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. There are 3 articulated South Sea pearls measuring 13.5 mm, 13.3 mm and 12.5 mm finishing the bottom. The brooch is designed as a tied bow composed of chevron-set diamond ribbons finished with the 3 diamond-capped South Sea pearls. A similar brooch is pictured in Sterlé Joaillier Paris, by Viviane Jutheau, Editions Vecteurs, 1990, Plate 1273.
An American Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 47 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, and 9 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats. Total approximate weight of the brooch is 5.40 carats, F/H color, VS clarity. The dimensional brooch is composed of 2 overlapping leaves. The firm of Raymond Yard catered to the wealthiest and most distinguished American families such as Rockefellers, Fleischmanns, Flaglers, and Woolworths, among others. The firm, Raymond C. Yard, focused primarily on custom pieces for their clientele and was known for sourcing the highest quality of materials that his clientele demanded. Stock pieces were executed by the highest level of outside manufacturers, with Yard supplying the stones and designs. His creations exemplified the understated elegance of impeccable workmanship combined with the very finest of materials. Raymond Yard prided himself on his knowledge of gems and was considered one of the foremost experts on pearls. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, The Vendome Press, 2007, page 61.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamond and pearl brooch. The brooch centers a relief portrait of a young woman with flowing hair among flowering vines on a plique-a-jour enamel ground with foliate old mine and rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.25 carat, suspending a freshwater pearls.With French assay mark.
An English Edwardian 15 karat gold pendant/brooch with diamond and seed pearls. The pendant/brooch has a bezel-set old mine-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.25 carats, and prong-set natural seed pearls. The heart-shape pendant/brooch has a fold-down bale and pendant watch fitting. "The heart-shaped jewel...emblem(s) of sacred and profane love..." Geoffrey C. Munn. Discussed in "The Triumph of Love Jewelry 1530-1930", by Geoffrey C. Munn, Thames and Hudson, London, 1993.
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