A Mid-20th Century patinated steel and gold dress set with cultured pearls by G.T. Marsh. The full dress set is composed of double sided cuff links, three dress studs and two dress buttons. The set is in a square geometric step motif with a pearl at the center. In the original signed Marsh box. G.T. Marsh & Co. was a San Francisco-based Asian art dealer known for their distinctive jewels. As a boy infatuated with Asian culture, George Turner Marsh apprenticed with a Japanese tea merchant, remaining there alone while his Australian family continued on to San Francisco, where they settled. Young George used his time in Yokohama to become conversant in Japanese art and aesthetics, and after re-joining his family, established an Asian art gallery using the expertise he had acquired. During the 1930s, 40s and 50s, his family began designing jewelry based on their interpretation of masterful Japanese metalwork together with the favored gems of the region, jadeite, coral and pearls. The firm''s unique steel jewelry was produced by bluing and sandblasting techniques, which gave the metal its matte finish, an extraordinary base for its sparkling, gleaming gems. "Marsh had a jeweler that worked exclusively for them. He was Italian, but he also liked shotguns and, because of his interest in shotguns, he had an interest in iron and metallurgy and what they did to rifles and shotguns t
o keep them from rusting. And the Marsh''s jewelry is steel that''s been treated with gun bluing. He sandblasted the steel before he gun blued it, that gives it this marvelous matte finish. And nowadays I don''t think there is anything more chic than the idea of black jewelry where the diamonds and the white gold absolutely pop and these marvelous pearls that he suspended have motion...The firm closed its doors in 2001." Barry Weber on the Antiques Road Show.
A pair of Italian 18 karat gold earrings with diamonds by Marina B. The "Onda" earrings have 240 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 11.86 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. One of Marina B''s first collections in 1978 included the ''Onda'' earring. The Italian word for wave is onda, and the earrings exemplify waves, weaving though the earrings like ''waves in the sea.''
An Italian Estate 18 karat white and yellow gold ring with emerald and diamonds by Buccellati. The ring has an oval-cut Colombian emerald with an approximate total weight of 2.19 carats, and 30 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .80 carat. The ring is composed in a classic Mario Buccellati foliate design, set with round diamonds that center on the engraved bezel-set emerald. With certificate from Mario Buccellati dated June 14, 2012, stating the ring has ''''a Colombian emerald weighing 2.19 ct. and 20 diamond weighing .80 ct in total."
An Italian Mid-20th Century 18 karat polished white and yellow gold bangle bracelet with sapphire, ruby and emerald by Bulgari. The open-back flexible bracelet has 1 cabochon sapphire with an approximate total weight of 2.83 carats, 1 cabochon ruby with an approximate total weight of 3.24 carats, and 1 cabochon emerald with an approximate total weight of 1.84 carats. All three stones are bezel-set in the flexible sectioned bangle. As Mascetti and Triossi note in Bulgari, "...cabochons successfully render the volume or "cupola" effect of the jewel, which is further enhanced by their setting. These are never spiky claws but rounded and smooth collets which enhance the overall rounded shapes of the design." Discussed in Bulgari, by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Abbeville Press Publishers, 1996, page 165-166.
An Italian Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Bulgari. The brooch has 24 baguette and 156 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.0 carats, D/E color, VS clarity. The brooch is designed in a dimensional leaf motif.
An Italian Estate 18 karat gold ring with diamonds by Bulgari. The ring centers on an emerald-cut diamond, 4.01 carats, H color, VS-2 clarity. The architectural setting has 50 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.80 carats. Gemological Institute of America, certificate #2185558564. The center diamond has had minor polishing; the GIA certified weight is 4.01 carats, H color, VS-2 clarity.
An Austro-Hungarian Etruscan Revival 18 karat gold necklace. The necklace is composed of 20 wire and bead-work embellished amphora. In Italy, goldsmiths had been reviving the Etruscan Archeological-style jewelry unearthed at Pompeii and the Greek jewelry found in the Museo Bourbonico since the early years of the 19th century. Along with the Italian Etruscan Revival jewelry, archeological revival jewelry was also made in Vienna in the in style presented in the discovered hoards unearthed in the Crimea, such as this necklace. Archeological jewelry is extensively discussed in Antique and 20th Century Jewellery by Vivienne Becker and Victorian Jewelry Design by Charlotte Gere.
A pair of Italian steel and 18 karat gold "Tubogas" earrings each with a bezel-set sugar loaf cabochon rubellite tourmaline, by Bulgari. "The working of tubogas in steel, due to its low malleability, proved to be very difficult and arduous and therefore more expensive than gold." -- Between Eternity and History Bulgari from 1884 to 2009 , by Amanda Triossi, Skira, 2009Similar pictured in Between Eternity and History Bulgari from 1884 to 2009 , by Amanda Triossi, Skira, 2009, page 184-193.
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