An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum dress set with moonstones and diamonds. The set has 7 cabochon moonstones with an approximate total weight of 4.10 carats and 86 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat. The classically-designed cluster cuff links are double-sided with clasped chain connections. The 3 cluster dress studs have gold folding wing backs. Similar pictured in Cuff Links, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Harry N. Abrams, 1991, page 50 (similar).
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
An English Victorian 18 karat gold and amethyst parure of a rivière necklace and drop earrings. The rivière features 20 deeply-colored oval amethysts on a horizontal orientation set into delicate pie-crust collets that have an approximate total weight of 220 carats. The suite also includes a pair of drop earrings with two beautifully-colored pear-cut amethysts and two circular-cut amethysts that have the approximate total weight of 8.50 carats. With fitted box.
Dimensions: Necklace: 17" length; earrings: 1-3/4" length x 3/8" width
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