An English antique 18 karat gold pendant locket with pearls and diamonds. The pendant locket has 1 old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .18 carat which is surrounded by a seed pearl-set garland. The locket is suspended from an antique 18 karat chain and has a split opening with two interior compartments.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamond and pearl brooch. The brooch centers a relief portrait of a young woman with flowing hair among flowering vines on a plique-a-jour enamel ground with foliate old mine and rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.25 carat, suspending a freshwater pearls.With French assay mark.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant with diamonds, pearls and peridots. The pendant features a plique-à-jour background with rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, 3 freshwater pearls and 3 pear and round-cut peridots with enamel decoration surrounding the profile of Juliet.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019. Note: This exquisite Art Nouveau image depicts Juliet at the moment when Romeo, lingering in the Montague''s garden, catches sight of her on her balcony. She is illuminated by the dawn light, represented in the jewel by the sparkling diamonds framing her head and the panes of glowing plique-a-jour enamel behind her. Though he first sees Juliet dancing with another man, Romeo is not put off, predicting that their love will prove "a beauteous flower" and identifying her with light: "she teaches the torches to burn bright". Meanwhile, behind a veneer of obedience, Juliette, resolute, witty, and loyal, chooses independence in death over life with the man her father has commanded her to marry. In part thanks to his captivating and complex woman heroes like Juliet, Shakespeare "went global" in the 19th century, inspiring world artists not only in drama but painting, printmaking, fiction, music and jewelry.
An Art Nouveau 14 karat gold and enamel pendant locket with diamonds. The pendant is decorated with 10 old mine- and single-cut diamonds with the approximate total weight of .30 carats. The relief cover depicts a winged nymph blowing two horns. Engraved in script, "BJ June 29, 1904" on back cover. Chain is a later period addition.Pictured in Masterpieces of American Jewelry, by Judith Price, Echo Point Books & Media, LLC, 2004, page 28.Note: Women at the turn of the century would have quickly identified this figure playing the double flute as Euterpe, the classical muse of musical inspiration. Women were, in fact, the new celebrities of the music world. Since the mid-19th century, woman singers had been blazing a trail through it, as composers began to write parts for sopranos and altos, parts that had previously been reserved for male countertenors. Women star singers dominated the stage, receiving high artistic praise from the newspaper critics. Actively and thoughtfully managing their own careers, they cultivated devoted followers, staging brilliant publicity stunts, quickly rising to the challenge of independence. They realized the need to control their images, and insisted on oversight of costume design, aware that every appearance was critical. This jewel''s musical muse, depicted in the midst of performance and transformation, was a symbolic celebration of women''s daring achievements in this newly opened world for them.
An English Edwardian 15 karat gold pendant/brooch with diamond and seed pearls. The pendant/brooch has a bezel-set old mine-cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.25 carats, and prong-set natural seed pearls. The heart-shape pendant/brooch has a fold-down bale and pendant watch fitting. "The heart-shaped jewel...emblem(s) of sacred and profane love..." Geoffrey C. Munn. Discussed in "The Triumph of Love Jewelry 1530-1930", by Geoffrey C. Munn, Thames and Hudson, London, 1993.
An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail.The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black
opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
An Antique 18 karat gold bracelet with turquoise and diamonds. The bracelet has 24 Old Mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 50 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and 15 turquoise cabochons. The ''offered'' linking bracelet is detachable and the center panel becomes a pendant. Pictured in Understanding Jewellery, by David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Antique Collectors'' Club, 1989, page 185, Plate 247.
An Edwardian platinum sautoir necklace with diamonds and seed pearls. The necklace is comprised of a chain with five rows of seed pearls, interspersed with complex decorative filigree work and studded with diamonds. It has a hanging pendant encrusted with diamonds, cut with open work and replete will delicate millgraining. The piece has 235 old mine- and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, including the chain. The center of the pendant is one old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .75 carat.
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