The eminent Belle Epoque dealer and collector Jane Lady Abdy referred this striking 1897 image by Alphonse Mucha as "a secular icon". Inspired as an Art Nouveau update on Michelangelo''s sibyls, the young woman with gems entangled in her swirling hair appeared in five "variants" of the original poster. These variants include examples with four to eight colors, one with raised ink, others bearing French, Greek, Arabic and Spanish lettering, all on a royal purple or lavender ground. According to Rennert and Weil, this is "Variant 3" of the original image. For a second, contrasting version of the advertisement, from 1898, Mucha depicted a young woman with black hair, dressed in a flowing gown printed in fugitive red ink. The posters advertized Jean Bardou''s range of wildly popular pure rice rolling papers, which included exotic flavors such as licorice and vanilla. The brand was christened "JOB" by the public, who blithely misread the JB monogram flanking a stylized diamond, and the name stuck. Perhaps the enduring appeal of Mucha''s early advertising work lies in the way the artist created highly effective brand images within an evocative work of art and imagination conveying the spirit of his contemporary world. Even the sinuous line of silky white smoke is subtly converted to an artistic element providing depth and perspective, while the mysterious woman appears to surge forwa
rd through the frame into the present.Printed by F. Champenois, Paris. Pictured in: "Alphonse Mucha: The Complete Posters and Panel", by Jack Rennert and Alain Weil, G.K. Hall & Co., Publishers, Boston, pages 82-85, cat. 15.Framed: 28.5"H x 24" W
An Antique silver-top 15 karat gold necklace, composed of 5 openwork flower motif clusters. The clusters are connected by diamond set swag links. Both clusters and links are set with old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 16.80 carats.
An English antique 18 karat gold pendant locket with pearls and diamonds. The pendant locket has 1 old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .18 carat which is surrounded by a seed pearl-set garland. The locket is suspended from an antique 18 karat chain and has a split opening with two interior compartments.
An Antique 15 karat gold and silver top diamond brooch. The body of the Borzoi has 230 pavé rose and Old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. The markings are created of intricately carved shades of amber.
An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum dress set with moonstones and diamonds. The set has 7 cabochon moonstones with an approximate total weight of 4.10 carats and 86 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat. The classically-designed cluster cuff links are double-sided with clasped chain connections. The 3 cluster dress studs have gold folding wing backs. Similar pictured in Cuff Links, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Harry N. Abrams, 1991, page 50 (similar).
An English Antique 15 karat gold and oxidized silver Maltese cross brooch with diamonds. The brooch has 130 old European-cut and old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 18.00 carats including the center old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.25 carats. Fold down bale. Antique box. The Maltese cross, in Italy also known as the Amalfi cross, is the cross symbol associated with the Knights Hospitaller (the Knights of Malta) and, by extension, with the island of Malta. The cross is eight-pointed and has the form of four "V"-shaped elements, each joining the others at its vertex, leaving the other two tips spread outward symmetrically. Its design is based on crosses used since the First Crusade.The 15th Century Crusaders adopted the Cross of Malta as their insignia because its eight points represented the eight Beatitudes prescribed in the Sermon on the Mount. Those, in effect, declare (1) blessed are the poor in spirit, (2) the meek, (3) the pure, (4) the merciful, and (5) the peacemakers; (6) blessed are they that mourn, and (7) seek righteousness, and (8) blessed are they who are persecuted forrighteousness sake. The Cross of Malta had a religious origin but the Knights of St. John also made it their battle standard for the liberation of all men, women and children who suffered oppression. The ideals for which the original Crusaders fought parallel the principles of democracy today, freedom and justice.
An Antique 18 karat gold and platinum brooch with demantoid garnets, diamonds and ruby. The brooch has 38 demantoid garnets with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, 34 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, and a ruby eye. The 3 dimensional grasshopper brooch is positioned in a perched position.
An Antique English 18 karat gold and oxidized silver ring with ruby and diamonds. The ring has an oval ruby with an approximate weight of 2.13 carats, and 10 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats. The ring is composed in a classic English Raj cluster motif with bezel-set ruby and floral bezel-set diamonds. The shoulders of the ring are composed in an open work lyre motif. SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute Report #76870 stating no heat indications and of Burma origin, dated 29 September 2014.
Dimensions: Ring size 6-1/2; this ring can be sized.
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