A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooches with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. Each ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat which are bezel-set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. With signed Cartier box. Similar pictured in Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, page 44-45.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Cartier designed in a stylized double feather motif. The brooch features 132 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.00 carats, and 48 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, G/H/I color, VS clarity. With signed Cartier box.
An English Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Grain de café" brooch with diamonds by Cartier London. Designed as a cluster coffee bean leaves, highlighted by 4 round brilliant-cut diamonds, approximate total weight .28 carat.Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier first presented this design in the 1930s. It was intended as an homage to Paris'' fabulous café culture and the famous artists, writers and philosophers who infused it with both glamor and intellectual vigor. Grain de café jewels - brooches, necklaces, and earclips - were popular on both sides of the Atlantic well into the 1950s. A favorite design of Hollywood royalty, Grace Kelly was one actor frequently photographed on both casual and formal occasions wearing her own demi-parure of coffee bean necklace and earclips.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Grain de Café" earrings by Cartier. Each highly three dimensional earring is composed of ribbed coffee bean motifs arranged in a stylized floral form. With a signed Cartier Box. Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier first presented this design in the 1930s. It was intended as an homage to Paris'' fabulous café culture and the famous artists, writers and philosophers who infused it with both glamor and intellectual vigor. Grain de café jewels - brooches, necklaces, and earclips - were popular on both sides of the Atlantic well into the 1950s. A favorite design of Hollywood royalty, Grace Kelly was one actor frequently photographed on both casual and formal occasions wearing her own demi-parure of coffee bean necklace and earclips.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds by Cartier Paris. The brooch has pavé round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, a cabochon sapphire with an approximate weight of 4.70 carats, 44 cabochon sapphires with an approximate total weight of .88 carat, and 2 cabochon emerald eyes. Signed Cartier box. Note: A Cartier legend, the designer Jeanne Toussaint was a creative spirit at Cartier Paris for almost 40 years. Born in the late 19th century, Jeanne rose from almost inconceivably difficult circumstances of poverty and abuse to an influential position as a woman of style and intelligence. "PanPan" was the nickname given to her in honor of the elegant and fiercely independent nature associated with the wild panther itself. Winning the support and trust of Louis Cartier and the women tastemakers who were the firm''s most important clients, Jeanne led the Maison to success after success, guiding it through its most challenging periods. For the legendary Duchess of Windsor, she created one of her great "Panthere" jewels, a diamond-pavé, onyx-spotted feline perched on a giant Kashmir sapphire. Jeanne had not sought her client''s approval first - she was confident that the Duchess would buy it on the spot, and she did. The "Panthere" design, a byword for the spirit of Jeanne Toussaint, has remained one of the firm''s
most enduring symbols, embodied in this amusing rendition of the big cat playing with a sapphire ball. / "In 1914 Louis Cartier commissioned French painter George Barbier to draw a lady with jewels and a panther. The artwork was later used in advertising, and Cartier was inextricably linked with the symbol of this animal. Louis Cartier was the pioneer in taming the legendary creature and his associate Jeanne Toussaint went on to make magnificent use of the icon. The panther has since inspired timeless and elegant collections of jewelry and timepieces that show the multiple facets of the animal that can be at times bold, regal or sensual." -- "Amazing Cartier", by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, p. 72.
A French 1950''s 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The highly stylized brooch appears to be caught in motion, as a bouquet of gold ribs makes an elegant, diamond-crowned arc before looping back upon itself, ultimately fanning out as it stretches downward, allowing for the significant diamond accents at the bottom of the brooch to each be displayed in full. The brooch has 23 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats. French Control Marks, Makers Mark.
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