A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant by André Rambour. The pendant depicts a maiden within an enamel iris which is suspended by fancy link chain and an enameled foliate top.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamond and pearl brooch. The brooch centers a relief portrait of a young woman with flowing hair among flowering vines on a plique-a-jour enamel ground with foliate old mine and rose-cut diamond accents weighing approximately 0.25 carat, suspending a freshwater pearls.With French assay mark.
A French Art Nouveau 18 karat gold pendant with diamonds, pearls and peridots. The pendant features a plique-à-jour background with rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat, 3 freshwater pearls and 3 pear and round-cut peridots with enamel decoration surrounding the profile of Juliet.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019. Note: This exquisite Art Nouveau image depicts Juliet at the moment when Romeo, lingering in the Montague''s garden, catches sight of her on her balcony. She is illuminated by the dawn light, represented in the jewel by the sparkling diamonds framing her head and the panes of glowing plique-a-jour enamel behind her. Though he first sees Juliet dancing with another man, Romeo is not put off, predicting that their love will prove "a beauteous flower" and identifying her with light: "she teaches the torches to burn bright". Meanwhile, behind a veneer of obedience, Juliette, resolute, witty, and loyal, chooses independence in death over life with the man her father has commanded her to marry. In part thanks to his captivating and complex woman heroes like Juliet, Shakespeare "went global" in the 19th century, inspiring world artists not only in drama but painting, printmaking, fiction, music and jewelry.
An Art Nouveau 14 karat gold and enamel pendant locket with diamonds. The pendant is decorated with 10 old mine- and single-cut diamonds with the approximate total weight of .30 carats. The relief cover depicts a winged nymph blowing two horns. Engraved in script, "BJ June 29, 1904" on back cover. Chain is a later period addition.Pictured in Masterpieces of American Jewelry, by Judith Price, Echo Point Books & Media, LLC, 2004, page 28.Note: Women at the turn of the century would have quickly identified this figure playing the double flute as Euterpe, the classical muse of musical inspiration. Women were, in fact, the new celebrities of the music world. Since the mid-19th century, woman singers had been blazing a trail through it, as composers began to write parts for sopranos and altos, parts that had previously been reserved for male countertenors. Women star singers dominated the stage, receiving high artistic praise from the newspaper critics. Actively and thoughtfully managing their own careers, they cultivated devoted followers, staging brilliant publicity stunts, quickly rising to the challenge of independence. They realized the need to control their images, and insisted on oversight of costume design, aware that every appearance was critical. This jewel''s musical muse, depicted in the midst of performance and transformation, was a symbolic celebration of women''s daring achievements in this newly opened world for them.
An American Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and enamel pendant brooch with opals and chrysoprase by Marcus & Co.. The pendant brooch has 6 cabochon white opals, 63 cabochon chrysoprase stones and plique-à-jour enamel. Suspended from the brooch is an opal and chrysoprase pendant drop. Detachable brooch finding and flip-down bail.The multi-generational New York firm of Marcus & Co was founded by an ambitious young German immigrant who had trained at a prominent Dresden court jeweler. In 1892, after working with Charles Lewis Tiffany, Hermann Marcus and his sons William and George together set up a business that soon became a glittering New York society institution renowned not only for its superb diamonds, colored stones and pearls, but also its instantly recognizable, original design style. The firm produced great jewels in the Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts sensibility, with George, the artist/designer, drawing inspiration from sources as diverse and exotic as the contemporary French masters, the Moghuls and Maharajahs, the garland style of the Ancien Regime, and the genius of Renaissance goldsmiths. George''s distinctive, confident hand was always discernible in Marcus creations. Working as a team with George, his brother William was a gem and pearl connoisseur who travelled the world hunting fine gem material, including purchasing the entire production of never-before-seen black
opal in Lightning Ridge Australia in 1908. Marcus exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, and their work won prizes at the prestigious Society of Arts & Crafts of Boston. Plique-a-jour enamel was an art in which Marcus & Co. excelled, creating jewels with unprecedented three-dimensional depth in this medium. The firm and family were well-known for their charitable activities and promotion of young jewelers such as Raymond Yard.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A French Art Nouveau gold and plique-à-jour enamel pendant with opals, freshwater and natural pearls by Georges Fouquet. The pendant has 11 opals, 13 freshwater pearls and one natural saltwater pearl. The pendant is designed in a flowing foliate motif with plique-à-jour enamel leaves floating over translucent opals and decorated with clusters of pearls. With signed G. Fouquet box.Shown in the Poster House (New York) exhibition "Alphonse Mucha: Art Nouveau./Nouvelle Femme," June 20-October 6, 2019.
A Tiffany Studios New York "Olive" covered box by, executed by the Enamelware Department of Stonebridge Glass Company, New York. This fabulous masterpiece is composed of enameled copper. The cover is decorated with olives, purple-brown copper branches and deep green leaves. From Paul Doros: "This enameled covered box clearly reveals the quality and innovative artistry that led to the company winning a gold medal at that world''s fair. It is of a familiar form but features an unusual motif and palette. Both the cover and slightly ribbed body have a repoussé design of ripening olives and pendant leaves on sinuous branches, one of them forming an irregular sculptural handle. The gold background is particularly noteworthy. Most Tiffany enamels of this type have a ground in shades of either red or blue. The background used in this object is perfectly suited, as it suggests olives ripening under a warm, golden sun. Hints of gold glimmer and sparkle through the slightly iridescent aubergine and purple olives, as well as the green leaves, adding to the illusion. It was pieces such as this one that caused contemporary critics to proclaim Tiffany''s enamels as "rare works of art" as well as "visions of delight." Paul Doros is former curator of glass at the Chrysler Museum of Art (Norfolk, Virginia) and author of The Art Glass of Louis Comfort Tiffany (New York: Vendome Press)
, 2013. PROVENANCE Parke-Bernet Galleries Inc., New York Private Collection, New York, circa 1965 Thence by descent to the present owners LITERATURE Martin Eidelberg and Nancy McClelland, "Behind the Scenes of Tiffany Glassmaking: The Nash Notebooks," New York, 2001, pp. 21 and 178 (for the model executed in pottery) Alastair Duncan, "Louis C. Tiffany: The Garden Museum Collection," Woodbridge, Suffolk, 2004, pp. 466 (for the model executed in pottery) and 471 (for the model executed in bronze pottery)
An American Art Nouveau enamel, 14 karat bloomed gold and diamond pendant locket. The figure on the heart-shaped pendant locket wears an old European-cut diamond ''earring'' with an approximate weight of .04 carat. The uniquely-shaped pendant locket has double-sided compartments.
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