An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique à jour brooch with diamond, amethysts and pearl by Louis Zorra. The brooch has an old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .65 carat, 21 round bezel-set amethysts with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, and a hanging, enamel-capped pearl. Similar pictured in "Imperishable Beauty Art Nouveau Jewelry", by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Elyse Zorn Karlin, "MFA Publications Museum of Fine Arts", Boston, 2008, pages 8 and 68. "Zorra was possibly born in Italy, working in Paris during the Art Nouveau period)...he moved to Paris from Asti, Italy, and exhibited at the Salon des artistes français, receiving an honorable mention in 1902." Markowitz and Karlin in Imperishable Beauty, pg. 151.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold bracelet with amethysts. The dimensional link bracelet has 5 square-cut amethysts with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats. The bracelet is composed of 5 rectangular flexible links connected with 5 amethyst-set oval links.
An English Victorian 18 karat gold bangle bracelet with amethyst, diamonds and pearls. The hinged bangle bracelet centers on a cabochon amethyst with a ribbon of 9 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .26 carat. The center cluster is framed by 26 seed pearls. With antique fitted box.
Dimensions: Interior circumference: 6-1/2"; the graduated cuff measures 1-1/4" to 1/4" width.
A pair of Art Deco platinum earrings with diamonds, amethysts and natural pearl tassels. The natural pearl tassel earrings are topped with 4 amethyst beads and 112 Old European-cut diamond-studded roundels that have the approximate total of 1.64 carats. The rich color of the amethyst is offset beautifully in this piece by the luster of the natural pearls, as the architectural heads of the earrings are complemented by the movement of the lower tassels.
An American Retro 14 karat gold brooch with peridots, pink sapphires and amethyst by Raymond Yard. The brooch has 20 mixed cuts peridots with an approximate total weight of 8.00 carats, a 6 mixed cuts pink sapphires with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats, a cabochon amethyst with an approximate total weight of .50 carats. The brooch is designed in a highly stylized Retro flower motif. Similar pictured in Yard The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, by Natasha Kuzmanovic, the Vendome Press, 2007, page 221, Plate 316.
A set of two of French Art Deco 18 karat gold "lilac-leaf" clip brooches,the larger set with oval-cut green tourmalines, yellow heliodor beryls, yellow-gray beryls and aquamarines, highlighted by a single-cut diamond stem set in platinum, the second set with circular and oval-cut pink tourmalines, pale amethysts, and green tourmalines, both with medium-relief naturalistic modeling, by René Boivin. Executed under the leadership of famed Boivin designer Juliette Moutard, these spectacular pieces are as significant in the history of high jewelry as they are beautiful. These elegant brooches demonstrate the height of Moutard''s particular style: the refined, geometrically-rendered organic shape of the lilac leaf, the sensitive and masterful employment of color gradation, and the interplay of complementary shapes are all hallmarks of Moutard''s work for Boivin. The brooches have oval-cut tourmalines, green and yellow beryl, which together have and approximate total weight of 42.25 carats; aquamarines with an approximate total weight of 17.00 carats; and 30 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat. With authenticity report from expert Francoise Cailles. Boivin''s work is a remarkable exception to many of the presiding trends of the 1930s. For one, the house eschewed the stark, monotonous, and highly geometric Art Deco stye. While other firms continued
to churn out architecturally clean designs in diamond and platinum, Boivin maintained their commitment to celebrating color and the organic forms of the natural world. Also notable, and unusual for the time, is that Boivin was an all-female led firm. After the premature death of René Boivin in 1917, the firm would be led until its dissolution by his widow, Jeanne Boivin, and a host of brilliant female designers, among them Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Germaine Boivin,
An English Victorian 18 karat gold and amethyst parure of a rivière necklace and drop earrings. The rivière features 20 deeply-colored oval amethysts on a horizontal orientation set into delicate pie-crust collets that have an approximate total weight of 220 carats. The suite also includes a pair of drop earrings with two beautifully-colored pear-cut amethysts and two circular-cut amethysts that have the approximate total weight of 8.50 carats. With fitted box.
Dimensions: Necklace: 17" length; earrings: 1-3/4" length x 3/8" width
An American Contemporary 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds, emeralds, amethysts, turquoise and coral by Henry Dunay. The piece is a beautiful and playful array of cabochon amethyst, turquoise and coral set in twisted gold bezels, accented with raised, gold-framed diamonds and organized in an arresting organic lozenge shape. The brooch has 34 white round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats, 10 cabochon emeralds with an approximate total weight of 1.50 carats, 16 cabochon amethysts, 12 cabochon turquoise, 4 cabochon coral-Pendant attachment on back.Henry Dunay''s Miniature GardenThis pendant-brooch by Henry Dunay speaks to the little art works coming into bloom all around us here on the streets of New York. The sight of vibrantly colored sidewalk micro-gardens, and the joy they bring, are an eagerly-anticipated spring phenomenon, a joint gift of nature and our generous, talented neighbors. Within the constraints of a few square feet, framed by ornamental ironwork, these little early modernist style compositions of hue, form and texture are conjured from miniature tulips, narcissus, snowdrops, crocus and periwinkles, all interspersed with electric spring-green leaves. Fellow New Yorker Henry Dunay, a lifelong jeweler, champion of handmade work, and recipient of numerous awards, says that an important aspect of his art has been to capture a se
nse of natural flow, and to speak to our subconscious minds. He succeeds brilliantly here, with this joyful evocation of the natural jewels of spring.
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