A French Art Deco platinum bracelet with diamonds by Okrant et Davidonniez. The flexible open work bracelet has 512 European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 38.00 carats, 2 larger diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 2 smaller flanking diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, VS clarity, G/H/I color grade. With original box. The Okrant et Davidonniez workshop was located in Paris at 64 rue Lafayette. They produced jewelry for all the Place Vendôme fine jewelry houses, such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, and Boucheron. The firm closed in 1939. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018. Similar bracelets are pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 84, 154.
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.
A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
An American Art Moderne diamond, emerald and platinum twinstone ring by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin. The stepped, high-arched mount set with a yellow cushion-cut diamond weighing approximately 1.75 carats, and an emerald-cut emerald weighing approximately1.65 carats, completed by stepped shoulders and shank of conforming design.Formed in 1935, Trabert Hoeffer-Mauboussin was a merger between Mauboussin Paris'' Park Avenue branch and an innovative American firm, Trabert & Hoeffer, a Manhattan partnership whose stylish owners had Hollywood connections and a tendency to splurge on world-famous gems for display. Howard Hoeffer, a proponent of French jewelry design who sent his artisans to Paris for training, had cultivated Georges Mauboussin from the early 1920''s, even before the French firm won a Grand Prize at the Grand Central Palace Exhibition in 1924. By the mid 1930s, the Depression had brought both firms to the brink of bankruptcy, struggling with large inventories of superb jewelry and gems of historic provenance. From 1935 to 1940, the firms collaborated to produce and loan high style jewels and large gems to the Hollywood studios. The period''s iconic photo portraits of Marlene Dietrich and Claudette Colbert, among others, show these eternal stars adorned in the firm''s stunning Art Moderne masterpieces. A product of that early collaboration, this twin stone pla
tinum ring, with its classic pairing of emerald and yellow diamond, is a mini-masterpiece of Machine Age design and construction. Dense, streamlined, and perfectly balanced, it is a chic statement of French-American style.
An Art Deco platinum necklace with turquoise, rock crystal, chalcedony and diamonds by Mauboussin. There are 72 round-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 5.96 carats. The house of Mauboussin was considered the leader in design innovation and luxury creation in the Art Deco period, so much so that Maurice Dauzalle, the famed art critic, wrote of the firm''s 1930 exhibition in "L''Illustration:" ''All the creations on display radiate the same artistic brilliance, the influence of a strong personality, a decisiveness.... In all of [Georges Mauboussin]''s work there is a lively intelligence, a driving inspiration....'' This striking collar features a strong, solidly Deco design that, unusually, centers on the cool interplay of color provided by the evenly-matched turquoise and the deeply black onyx. Interspersed with sleek slivers of architecturally-striated rock crystal and diamond-studded platinum accents, this industrially elegant piece demonstrates the height of design from the well-celebrated house of Mauboussin. With certificate of authenticity from Mauboussin.
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