An Art Deco platinum necklace with emeralds, diamonds and enamel. The necklace has five fluted emerald beads with an approximate total weight of 19.00 carats, accented with 124 baguettes, 10 triangular and 302 round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 11.10 carats, G/H/I color, VS clarity. Each graduated emeraldbead is flanked by black enamel accents, with the back chain set in an Art Deco baguette and round diamond motif.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and emerald sautoir necklace with pendant, by Henri Picq. The chain composed of stepped, arched bombé links joined by twisted bars, highlighted by calibré-cut emeralds, suspending a shaped pendant of conforming design, with millegrain accents. The necklace centers on an emerald-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, and baguette, old European-cut and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 40.00 carats, H/I color, VS. The pendant has 2 emerald-cut emeralds and 44 calibré-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 7.70 carats. The pendant is detachable from the twisted design and barrel-shaped links of the necklace. Henri Picq established his jewel workshop in the Marais in 1888, and his superb, exacting work soon caught the attention of the great Parisian jewelers. From 1900 until the late 1920s, Picq manufactured for Cartier, as well as for legendary firms such as La Cloche Frères and Ostertag. According to the jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the last writer to have unfettered access to the Cartier Archives, Picq was instrumental in developing the platinum for which Cartier became famous, a particular alloy "said to be the best in Paris" which created a "white, shimmering surface" and whose constituents were kept secret from the rest of the trade. Cartier entrusted Picq to work with unu
sual materials and to execute exceptional designs, resulting in some of the firm''s most complex and acclaimed creations. The Picq workshop manufactured the celebrated blackened steel kokoschnik tiara of 1913, modeled on a royal . Cartier also commissioned them to create the enduringly beloved "tutti frutti" jewels of carved colored gems, inspired by the firm''s collaboration with expatriate members of the Indian aristocracy who were among their most devoted patrons. They were manufacturers of the opulent long sautoirs with multiple transformations, such as this example, so popular in the late 1920s. This unsigned period jewel bears Picq''s distinctive French maker''s mark, and represents work of the same exacting standards so prized by their famous clients.Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Belle Epoque platinum-topped gold necklace with diamonds by Chaumet. The necklace has old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 68 carats, H-I-J color, VS/SI clarity. The necklace is designed as a graduated double festoon. The center stone weighs approximately 2.50 carats, with the remaining stones graduating to .20 carat. The house of Chaumet was founded in 1780 by Marie-Etiene Nitot as Nitot et fils. Nitot had begun his career working with Auber, jeweler to Queen Marie-Antoinette. An aristocratic clientele was soon to follow him to his new workshop. A reputation as the "jeweler of the tiara" was earned in those early commissions when Nitot created the coronation crown for Napoleon. Napoleon wanted to make his family transcendent and saw jewels as the true symbol of power to be used in displaying his kingly authority. Empress Josephine appeared at the coronation resplendent in a tiara created for her by Nitot, and so it began.A similar festoon necklace is pictured in Chaumet Paris, by Roselyne Hurel and Diana Scarisbrick, Paris musées, 1998, page 95, Plate 128.
An Edwardian platinum sautoir necklace with diamonds and seed pearls. The necklace is comprised of a chain with five rows of seed pearls, interspersed with complex decorative filigree work and studded with diamonds. It has a hanging pendant encrusted with diamonds, cut with open work and replete will delicate millgraining. The piece has 235 old mine- and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, including the chain. The center of the pendant is one old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .75 carat.
A French Belle Epoque 18 karat gold, platinum, diamond, pearl and Paillet enamel pendant watch necklace. The pendant watch has 26 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.05 carats, 70 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and 28 seed pearls. The back of the pendant has a Paillet enamel depicting putti, Aphrodite with doves in hand and Pandora. It can be counted as an example of the virtuoso enameling Paillet is known for. The platinum chain is composed of 4 diamond-set plaques. Similar pictured in Boucheron Le Joaillier Du Temps, by Gilles Neret, Conti, 1992, pages 49-50.
A Belle Epoque platinum and 14 karat gold lavaliere necklace with bezel-set garnet, yellow sapphire, blue sapphire and diamonds. The diamond-set platinum chain necklace suspends a cushion-shape red garnet with an approximate weight of 5.50 carats, an oval blue sapphire with an approximate weight of 5.75 carats, an oval cushion yellow-orange sapphire with an approximate weight of 5.50 carats, and rose and Old European cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats. With original signed "Peter Rath Munchen" fitted box.
A French Mid-20 Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Angel Hair" necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The necklace has 26 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.10 carats. The "Angel Hair" necklace is designed as a highly flexible tapered band of gold fringe enhanced by a circular-cut diamond cross-over front detail. Pictured in Jewelry of the 1940''s and 1950''s, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1988, page 172.
A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum necklace with diamonds and sapphires. The necklace has 74 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, and 66 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats. The necklace is designed with stylized twisted gold leaves interspersed with a row of diamonds alternating with a row of sapphires. The front of the necklace is suspended by two woven gold chains with a twisted leaf motif clasp.
Signed: “Made in France” with French control marks
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