A French Art Nouveau silvered bronze figural sculpture by Agathon Léonard featuring a woman dancing titled "Danseuse chantant". This figure is one of "Le jeu d''écharpe" (The Scarf Set), originally produced and cast by Sèvres, and awarded a Gold Medal at the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle. The series was later cast in bronze by the Susse Frères foundry, with special limited editions in silvered bronze, such as this piece. Le jeu d''écharpe, created by Agathon Léonard at the turn of the 20th century, consists of 15 sculptures of young women in various poses. Some women dance with scarves; others hold musical instruments or carry flaming torches. Each of the 15 dancers is unique in terms of her pose, hair style and dress. Their dresses exhibit fluid drapery with flowing sleeves. Le jeu d''echarpe was inspired by the dancer Loïe Fuller. A similar model is pictured in "Agathon Léonard: Le geste Art nouveau," by Ingelore Boestge, Somogy editions d''art, Paris 2003, p.62, Plate number 35. Provenance: Elizabeth Taylor
A French wheel carved cameo and martelé glass "Crocus" vase by Daum. This Daum vase has gray cameo glass. It is decorated with stems and leaves ascending from the bulbous foot leading to padded and wheel-carved crocus flowers. The crocus flowers are arranged in a variation of purple and orange over white. The overall decoration is set against a background of mottled blue, shading to yellow and lavender. A similar vase is pictured in: "Daum Frères: Maîtres Verriers, 1892-1935" by Katharina Büttiker-Weber, Zurich: Galerie Katharina Büttiker, 1986, cat. no. 73.
A French cameo glass "Coeur de Jeanette" vase by Muller Freres. Muller Frères displays an incredible intellectual unity between this vase''s design and it''s literary title. The "Coeur de Jeanette" was an Alsatian colloquialism for the Bleeding Heart flower. Referring to a jewelry form comprised of a Latin cross suspended from a bleeding heart, newly working young girls across Northern France would use four months of pay to make their first autonomous purchase. Crucially the purchase was made on the titular Fête de la Saint-Jean. The "Coeur de Jeannette" represented a rite of passage for young Alsatian girls, and one that is perfectly expressed by this vase''s crepuscular setting. Just as twilight denotes the border between day and night, the Fête de la Saint-Jean marked the border between girlhood and womanhood. The "Coeur de Jeanette" is an inverted baluster shaped vase that has been blown, cased, cameo-cut, wheel engraved, and enameled. The vase has a lipless rim and a splayed firing foot. A shell of opalescent glass was blown onto a core of non-lead colorless glass. The opalescent glass gives the interior a captivating rainbow iridescence that is brought out under reflected light. The gather was subsequently marvered and cased in a layer of silver nitrate amber glass, an intercalaire layer of translucent white glass and finished with a layer of translucent aubergine gl
ass. The intercalaire layer has a spatter of powdered glass inclusions that radiates from the base to the rim. The powdered glass inclusions come in two colors: translucent fuschia pink and opaque periwinkle. The opaque periwinkle serves as a reprise to the milky color of the vase''s opalescent glass interior. The translucent aubergine glass was deeply carved, giving the veins and leaf margins the highest relief. This technique perfectly captures the transmitted light that affects leaves with frontal views and upward-facing planes. Miniscule bubbles were created on the surface of the translucent white layer by sprinkling bistre colored glass inclusions on the surface while the gather was still in a semi-molten state. In the process of blowing the vase, the base was subtly twisted clockwise from the foot, giving the viewer a sensation of rising air. Two racemes of foreground blooms were enameled in two layers. For the normal cultivars, the fuschia pink of the powdered inclusions are reprised as a layer atop the cream colored enamel, applied thickly or thinly depending on the petal''s venation, with a brush and needle. For the white "Alba" cultivar, a variation on the "grisaille" technique was used. The shadows of the petal were modeled by exposing the aubergine glass underneath. A layer of translucent "jaune d''antimoine" (antimony yellow) enamel was applied, reflecting the light of the amber colored sky. Latent in the piece is the repeated graduation of pictorial motifs, namely the graduation of the magnitude of blooms on each flower raceme, the illusion of depth created by racemes of different sizes and the graduation of the edges of the leaves towards the base and foot. The softness of the edges serve to mimic human vision in crepuscular settings. Masses become unified in tone while backlit individual objects still retain some sharpness as they silhouette against the flaxen twilight. References: Kelly, Barbara L. 2008. French music, culture, and national identity: 1870-1939. Rochester: University of Rochester Press. Baudoin, Marcel & Lacoulomere, Georges., Le Coeur Vendéen, Société d''Anthropologie de Paris, 1903
A French Art Nouveau "Winter Scene" cameo glass vase by Daum Nancy. A group of bare trees in the foreground sit on snowy ground under a yellow and orange sky. A larger group of bare trees are in the background. PROVENANCE: From an Unreserved Texas Estate. A vase with similar decoration is pictured in: Daum Frères: Maîtres Verriers, 1892-1935, by Katharina Büttiker-Weber, Zurich: Galerie Katharina Büttiker, 1986, cat. no 27.
A French Art Nouveau "Winter Landscape" vase with an inverted lip, by Daum Nancy. The etched and enameled glass vase depicts trees in a barren meadow, a forested background against an amber and orange sky. PROVENANCE: From an Unreserved Texas Estate. A vase with similar decoration is pictured in: Daum Frères: Maîtres Verriers, 1892-1935, by Katharina Büttiker-Weber, Zurich: Galerie Katharina Büttiker, 1986, cat. no 27.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and emerald sautoir necklace with pendant, by Henri Picq. The chain composed of stepped, arched bombé links joined by twisted bars, highlighted by calibré-cut emeralds, suspending a shaped pendant of conforming design, with millegrain accents. The necklace centers on an emerald-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, and baguette, old European-cut and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 40.00 carats, H/I color, VS. The pendant has 2 emerald-cut emeralds and 44 calibré-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 7.70 carats. The pendant is detachable from the twisted design and barrel-shaped links of the necklace. Henri Picq established his jewel workshop in the Marais in 1888, and his superb, exacting work soon caught the attention of the great Parisian jewelers. From 1900 until the late 1920s, Picq manufactured for Cartier, as well as for legendary firms such as La Cloche Frères and Ostertag. According to the jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the last writer to have unfettered access to the Cartier Archives, Picq was instrumental in developing the platinum for which Cartier became famous, a particular alloy "said to be the best in Paris" which created a "white, shimmering surface" and whose constituents were kept secret from the rest of the trade. Cartier entrusted Picq to work with unu
sual materials and to execute exceptional designs, resulting in some of the firm''s most complex and acclaimed creations. The Picq workshop manufactured the celebrated blackened steel kokoschnik tiara of 1913, modeled on a royal . Cartier also commissioned them to create the enduringly beloved "tutti frutti" jewels of carved colored gems, inspired by the firm''s collaboration with expatriate members of the Indian aristocracy who were among their most devoted patrons. They were manufacturers of the opulent long sautoirs with multiple transformations, such as this example, so popular in the late 1920s. This unsigned period jewel bears Picq''s distinctive French maker''s mark, and represents work of the same exacting standards so prized by their famous clients.Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French cameo glass vase by Daum. The vase, with martelé background, has red wheel-carved lily flowers rising on green stems from its carved green base. A vase with similar decoration is pictured in: Daum Nancy III: Daum Frères – Verreries de Nancy, 1880-1930, by Katharina Büttiker, Zurich: Galerie Katharina Büttiker, 2009, pp. 52-53.
A French Art Nouveau "Vigne et Escargots" vase by Daum. The vase features grape clusters, vines and leaves in low relief with an an applied snail on one of the upper leaves, all against a mottled amber, pink, red, plum and white glass ground. Some of the grapes are also applied to to heighten the natural effects of the grape clusters. The scene is loosely landscape-based, with roots at the bottom and vines hanging down from the top, but the complex composition makes the piece entirely surreal. During the Art Nouveau period artists frequently used scenes from nature to convey human emotion, and vice versa. This autumnal piece is dark and mysterious, with gnarls, roots, and snails slithering on it. The motifs, patterns, and textures on the vase imply a time of transience, like the changing of the seasons. The "Vigne et Escargots" vase was produced in five layers beginning with a colorless glass core. The top two thirds of the intercalaire layer is colored with sulfure de cadmium inclusions and the bottom third is powdered with améthyste inclusions. After being cased with colorless glass, the glass was colored with translucent white inclusions in the top two thirds of the vase and améthyste in the bottom two thirds. Cirrus clouds at sunset were created with améthyste inclusions sprinkled atop burgundy inclusions. The base features a spattering of opaque verte de paris in
clusions. To create a soot-like atmosphere, bistre inclusions were sprinkled about the grapes. The final layer consists of burgundy inclusions in the top third and améthyste, opaque verte de paris, and translucent white inclusions in the bottom two thirds. The vase was subsequently blown into an inverted baluster form with an undulating trefoil mouth and a splayed thick concave firing foot. In the constriction between the body and foot, the body was twisted counter-clockwise, while the constriction between body and neck was twisted clockwise. The striation created by the twisting of the intercalated layers create a sense of rising air. The bodies of the burgundy snails were subsequently created with drawn out upper and lower tentacles and fused with yellow powdered glass. For the snails'' shells, a core of colorless glass was coated in light gray-brown, dark gray-brown and black powdered glass and cased in another layer of colorless glass. The snail shells were fused to the body using this very powdered glass mixture. After the design was painted in wax upon the vase, the background and snails were acid-etched, allowing the intercalated layers to show through and the snails to be given a frosted appearance. The grape vine design and snails were subsequently hand carved, taking care to detail the snail shell''s bands. A vase with similar decoration is pictured in: Daum Frères: Maîtres Verriers, 1892-1935, by Katharina Büttiker-Weber, Zurich: Galerie Katharina Büttiker, 1986, cat. no. 79.
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