A French Mid-20th Century 18kt gold and platinum necklace with diamonds by Cartier. The necklace has 148 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The necklace is designed in a foliate fringe motif with diamond set platinum articulated ''leaves''. With signed Cartier box.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds and turquoise by Cartier. The asymmetrical bombé form centers 46 cabochon turquoises edged by gadrooned gold wiretwist and round brilliant-cut diamond shoulders pavé-set with 52 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.70 carats, completed by a ribbed shank. Circa 1956.A similar ring set with faceted sapphires is pictured in Amazing Cartier, Jewelry Design Since 1937, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion Publishers, 2008, page 165.Often worn two or three to a hand, these bold, luxurious and colorful "cocktail" rings were the perfect expression of women''s post-World War II war social and expressive freedom. Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, the eternally stylish creative director, Cartier produced a variety of these at once playful and sensual jewels.
An English Mid-20th Century flower-shaped 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier London. The brooch has 4 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .28 carat. The flower is composed of deeply engraved overlapping leaves leading to the diamond flowers. From the iconic Cartier ''Coffee Bean'' Collection.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Coffee Bean" earrings by Cartier. Each highly three dimensional earring is composed of ribbed coffee bean motifs arranged in a stylized floral form. With a signed Cartier Box. Cartier first presented this design in the 1930s as an homage to Paris'' fabulous café culture, beloved of its famous artists, writers and philosophers. Coffee bean brooches, necklaces watches and earclips were popular on both sides of the Atlantic well into the 1950s.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Cartier. The polished yellow gold ring has 35 platinum set round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.50 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. Innovative design is a Cartier trademark. This ring has a diamond step motif on one side and a gold fan motif on the other, creating an illusion of two entirely different rings depending upon the perspective of the viewer. With signed Cartier box.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and emerald sautoir necklace with pendant, by Henri Picq. The chain composed of stepped, arched bombé links joined by twisted bars, highlighted by calibré-cut emeralds, suspending a shaped pendant of conforming design, with millegrain accents. The necklace centers on an emerald-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, and baguette, old European-cut and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 40.00 carats, H/I color, VS. The pendant has 2 emerald-cut emeralds and 44 calibré-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 7.70 carats. The pendant is detachable from the twisted design and barrel-shaped links of the necklace. Henri Picq established his jewel workshop in the Marais in 1888, and his superb, exacting work soon caught the attention of the great Parisian jewelers. From 1900 until the late 1920s, Picq manufactured for Cartier, as well as for legendary firms such as La Cloche Frères and Ostertag. According to the jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the last writer to have unfettered access to the Cartier Archives, Picq was instrumental in developing the platinum for which Cartier became famous, a particular alloy "said to be the best in Paris" which created a "white, shimmering surface" and whose constituents were kept secret from the rest of the trade. Cartier entrusted Picq to work with unu
sual materials and to execute exceptional designs, resulting in some of the firm''s most complex and acclaimed creations. The Picq workshop manufactured the celebrated blackened steel kokoschnik tiara of 1913, modeled on a royal . Cartier also commissioned them to create the enduringly beloved "tutti frutti" jewels of carved colored gems, inspired by the firm''s collaboration with expatriate members of the Indian aristocracy who were among their most devoted patrons. They were manufacturers of the opulent long sautoirs with multiple transformations, such as this example, so popular in the late 1920s. This unsigned period jewel bears Picq''s distinctive French maker''s mark, and represents work of the same exacting standards so prized by their famous clients.Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum ring with emerald and diamonds by Cartier. The ring centers on a round-cut emerald with an approximate weight of 3.62 carats, and 30 round and baguette cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.75 carats. The emerald is certified by the SSEF Laboratory, Certificate #58514 stating the emerald is of Colombian origin, moderate traditional oil treatment. Ring size 6; this ring can be sized.
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