An Art Deco platinum necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 250 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.00 carats, 27 mixed-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, and 7 marquise-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.00 carats. The approximate total weight of the necklace is 17.50 carats, H/I color, VS/SI clarity. The necklace is designed in a strong Art Deco geometric motif with the central plaque suspending a graduated series of marquise diamond articulated tassels, and the clasp repeating the central plaque motif. Similar pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 124.
Dimensions: Necklace: 16-1/2" length; pendant element: 1-1/2" length x 3/4" width.
A Mid-20th Century diamond and platinum necklace. The necklace is composed of a row of 79 marquise-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 29.00 carats. The marquise diamonds graduate from a center stone weighing approximately 1.50 carats to approximately .15 carat. Nine of the marquise central stones in the necklace weigh over 1.00 carat. The interior row of the necklace is composed of 155 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 32.00 carats, graduating from the center stone weighing approximately .45 carat to approximately .15 carat. The approximate total of the diamonds is 61.00 carats, D/E color, VVS/VS clarity.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum necklace with sapphires and diamonds. The center of the necklace has 4 graduated festooned strands of 162 round and oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 25.00 carats that form the articulated swag. The blue sapphires are most likely from Ceylon. The top strand and side decoration have 153 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.00 carats, and 104 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 14.40 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. French control mark for platinum. The motifs of 1950''s jewelry design may appear similar to pieces produced in the ''40''s, but they were executed in an entirely different way. Retro jewelry had a solid, heavy and highly polished look whereas 1950''s jewelry was open, airy and textural, although still solid and "important" in appearance. There was beautiful movement and a depth displayed in the execution of design in this period, as this swag designed necklace exemplifies.
Dimensions: 14-1/2" length, with later 2" extension x 1-5/8" width at the center of the draping.
An Edwardian platinum and 15 karat gold collier de chien necklace with diamonds and seed pearls. The necklace is composed of 12 strands of freshwater seed pearls that are connected together with four diamond spacers set with 56 old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.80 carats.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum and diamond necklace/tiara by Mellerio dits Meller. The necklace is composed of 200 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 44.25 carats, and 200 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 45.75 carats. Approximate total carat weight is 90.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The triple row necklace is formed of two outer rows of round-cut diamonds and a center row of baguette diamonds. The necklace separates forming a separate bracelet. The tiara frame is decorated with 7 round cut pastes. Mellerio fitted box. Mellerio dits Meller, the French jewelry house, was founded in 1613, and is still active today. "With jewelry for Marie-Antoinette, brooches for Princess Mathilde and tiaras for the court of the Netherlands, some of the biggest names in European royal history have cameos in the history of Mellerio dits Meller. The story of this jeweler to kings and queens has been written in gold and precious stones ever since Marie de Medicis lent her support to the house in 1613." Vincent Meylan, Mellerio historian.
A platinum necklace with sapphires and diamonds. The necklace is set with ten oval-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 44.74 carats, and 133 round and marquise-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 38.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. American Gemological Laboratory certificates on 6 of the sapphire states no evidence of heat treatment.
A French Mid-20th Century 18kt gold and platinum necklace with diamonds by Cartier. The necklace has 148 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The necklace is designed in a foliate fringe motif with diamond set platinum articulated ''leaves''. With signed Cartier box.
An Art Deco platinum necklace with emeralds, diamonds and enamel. The necklace has five fluted emerald beads with an approximate total weight of 19.00 carats, accented with 124 baguettes, 10 triangular and 302 round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 11.10 carats, G/H/I color, VS clarity. Each graduated emeraldbead is flanked by black enamel accents, with the back chain set in an Art Deco baguette and round diamond motif.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and emerald sautoir necklace with pendant, by Henri Picq. The chain composed of stepped, arched bombé links joined by twisted bars, highlighted by calibré-cut emeralds, suspending a shaped pendant of conforming design, with millegrain accents. The necklace centers on an emerald-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, and baguette, old European-cut and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 40.00 carats, H/I color, VS. The pendant has 2 emerald-cut emeralds and 44 calibré-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 7.70 carats. The pendant is detachable from the twisted design and barrel-shaped links of the necklace. Henri Picq established his jewel workshop in the Marais in 1888, and his superb, exacting work soon caught the attention of the great Parisian jewelers. From 1900 until the late 1920s, Picq manufactured for Cartier, as well as for legendary firms such as La Cloche Frères and Ostertag. According to the jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the last writer to have unfettered access to the Cartier Archives, Picq was instrumental in developing the platinum for which Cartier became famous, a particular alloy "said to be the best in Paris" which created a "white, shimmering surface" and whose constituents were kept secret from the rest of the trade. Cartier entrusted Picq to work with unu
sual materials and to execute exceptional designs, resulting in some of the firm''s most complex and acclaimed creations. The Picq workshop manufactured the celebrated blackened steel kokoschnik tiara of 1913, modeled on a royal . Cartier also commissioned them to create the enduringly beloved "tutti frutti" jewels of carved colored gems, inspired by the firm''s collaboration with expatriate members of the Indian aristocracy who were among their most devoted patrons. They were manufacturers of the opulent long sautoirs with multiple transformations, such as this example, so popular in the late 1920s. This unsigned period jewel bears Picq''s distinctive French maker''s mark, and represents work of the same exacting standards so prized by their famous clients.Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Belle Epoque platinum-topped gold necklace with diamonds by Chaumet. The necklace has old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 68 carats, H-I-J color, VS/SI clarity. The necklace is designed as a graduated double festoon. The center stone weighs approximately 2.50 carats, with the remaining stones graduating to .20 carat. The house of Chaumet was founded in 1780 by Marie-Etiene Nitot as Nitot et fils. Nitot had begun his career working with Auber, jeweler to Queen Marie-Antoinette. An aristocratic clientele was soon to follow him to his new workshop. A reputation as the "jeweler of the tiara" was earned in those early commissions when Nitot created the coronation crown for Napoleon. Napoleon wanted to make his family transcendent and saw jewels as the true symbol of power to be used in displaying his kingly authority. Empress Josephine appeared at the coronation resplendent in a tiara created for her by Nitot, and so it began.A similar festoon necklace is pictured in Chaumet Paris, by Roselyne Hurel and Diana Scarisbrick, Paris musées, 1998, page 95, Plate 128.
An Edwardian platinum sautoir necklace with diamonds and seed pearls. The necklace is comprised of a chain with five rows of seed pearls, interspersed with complex decorative filigree work and studded with diamonds. It has a hanging pendant encrusted with diamonds, cut with open work and replete will delicate millgraining. The piece has 235 old mine- and rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, including the chain. The center of the pendant is one old European-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .75 carat.
A French Belle Epoque 18 karat gold, platinum, diamond, pearl and Paillet enamel pendant watch necklace. The pendant watch has 26 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.05 carats, 70 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .70 carat, and 28 seed pearls. The back of the pendant has a Paillet enamel depicting putti, Aphrodite with doves in hand and Pandora. It can be counted as an example of the virtuoso enameling Paillet is known for. The platinum chain is composed of 4 diamond-set plaques. Similar pictured in Boucheron Le Joaillier Du Temps, by Gilles Neret, Conti, 1992, pages 49-50.
A Belle Epoque platinum and 14 karat gold lavaliere necklace with bezel-set garnet, yellow sapphire, blue sapphire and diamonds. The diamond-set platinum chain necklace suspends a cushion-shape red garnet with an approximate weight of 5.50 carats, an oval blue sapphire with an approximate weight of 5.75 carats, an oval cushion yellow-orange sapphire with an approximate weight of 5.50 carats, and rose and Old European cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats. With original signed "Peter Rath Munchen" fitted box.
A French Mid-20 Century 18 karat gold and platinum "Angel Hair" necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The necklace has 26 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.10 carats. The "Angel Hair" necklace is designed as a highly flexible tapered band of gold fringe enhanced by a circular-cut diamond cross-over front detail. Pictured in Jewelry of the 1940''s and 1950''s, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1988, page 172.
A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum necklace with diamonds and sapphires. The necklace has 74 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.75 carats, and 66 calibre-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats. The necklace is designed with stylized twisted gold leaves interspersed with a row of diamonds alternating with a row of sapphires. The front of the necklace is suspended by two woven gold chains with a twisted leaf motif clasp.
Signed: “Made in France” with French control marks
A platinum and 14 karat gold necklace with aquamarines and diamonds. The necklace has one kite-cut aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 17.39 carats, and a triangle aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 1.80 carats. The pendant is suspended from an 18.5" white gold chain that is set with 8 round-cut bezel-set diamonds that have the total weight of .45 carat.
An Early-20th Century platinum necklace with diamonds. The necklace has 5 large Old European-cut diamonds ranging in size from smallest to largest at 0.82 carats 0.82 - 1.00 - 1.00 - 1.11 - 1.16 carats, 443 Old European-cut and round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 18.74 carats, 10 trapazoid-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, 8 French-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.60 carats, and 10 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. The necklace overall measures 16" in length, and may be converted to a choker necklace at 13.25", or or to two bracelets at 6.75" each.
A platinum Art Deco lavalier necklace with diamonds and pearls. The lavalier pendant and tapered plaques have 117 round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.00 carats and 2 natural saltwater pearls which hang from the diamond set plaques designed in a classic Art Deco motif. The natural white pearl measures 10.1 x 9.4 mm and the dark gray natural pearl measures 8.8 x 8.6 mm. The necklace has 376 seed pearls connected with a platinum chain weave. Gemological Institute of America report #6173345278.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
A Macklowe Gallery original opal, sapphire, rock crystal and diamond rondele necklace. Composed of 70 graduating opal alternating with 71 sapphire beads, interspersed with 67 faceted rock crystal beads and platinum rondeles set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, approximate total weight 2.20 carats, completed by a platinum and diamond cylindrical clasp.
A contemporary platinum, 18 karat white gold, moonstone, sapphire and diamond long chain. Composed of 69 cabochon moonstones, approximate total weight 248 carats, interspersed with cabochon sapphires, approximate total weight 117 carats, and 49 sapphire beads, approximate total weight 55 carats, all mounted in platinum and joined by trace link chain, further highlighted by 7 pave-set round brilliant-cut diamond and sapphire boules.
An Art Deco platinum necklace with turquoise, rock crystal, chalcedony and diamonds by Mauboussin. There are 72 round-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 5.96 carats. The house of Mauboussin was considered the leader in design innovation and luxury creation in the Art Deco period, so much so that Maurice Dauzalle, the famed art critic, wrote of the firm''s 1930 exhibition in "L''Illustration:" ''All the creations on display radiate the same artistic brilliance, the influence of a strong personality, a decisiveness.... In all of [Georges Mauboussin]''s work there is a lively intelligence, a driving inspiration....'' This striking collar features a strong, solidly Deco design that, unusually, centers on the cool interplay of color provided by the evenly-matched turquoise and the deeply black onyx. Interspersed with sleek slivers of architecturally-striated rock crystal and diamond-studded platinum accents, this industrially elegant piece demonstrates the height of design from the well-celebrated house of Mauboussin. With certificate of authenticity from Mauboussin.
An American Late-20th Century platinum and 18 karat white gold necklace with sapphires and diamonds by David Webb. The necklace is composed of graduating sapphire beads with an approximate total weight of 500 carats, completed by a cabochon sapphire clasp, with an approximate weight of 5-1/2 carats, spaced by rondels with round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 15 carats.Chic and beautifully made, this rich blue cache of sapphire beads, strung as a gently braided torsade necklace, sits softly on the neck, accentuated by sparkling rondels of diamonds. The Madison Avenue workshops of the David Webb boutique, staffed by generations of artisan families, have been crafting glamorous, wearable jewels based on Webb''s bold and original designs since the 1940s.
An American Contemporary platinum chain with 16 diamonds, 61 sapphires and 34 moonstones. The chain has 16 oval diamonds.with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, 61 sapphires with an approximate total weight of 33.00 carats, and 34 cabochon moonstones with an approximate total weight of 26.00 carats.
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