A French Art Deco platinum bracelet with diamonds by Okrant et Davidonniez. The flexible open work bracelet has 512 European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 38.00 carats, 2 larger diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 2 smaller flanking diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, VS clarity, G/H/I color grade. With original box. The Okrant et Davidonniez workshop was located in Paris at 64 rue Lafayette. They produced jewelry for all the Place Vendôme fine jewelry houses, such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, and Boucheron. The firm closed in 1939. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018. Similar bracelets are pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 84, 154.
A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum brooches with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. Each ladybug clip/brooch has 6 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .60 carat which are bezel-set into the carved lapis lazuli wings. With signed Cartier box. Similar pictured in Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, page 44-45.
A French late-20th Century 18 karat gold necklace with diamonds by Cartier. The necklace has round and square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, which compose the three diamond-set plaques on the brick chain necklace. The "Trinidad'' diamond necklace. With signed Cartier box and Cartier documentation.
A pair of French platinum earrings with sapphires and diamonds by Cartier. The earrings have 30 pear-shape sapphires with an approximate total weight of 28.00 carats, 42 round-cut and 30 pear-shape diamonds with an approximate total weight of 10.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The articulated drops are detachable. With signed Cartier box.
A Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds by Cartier designed in a stylized double feather motif. The brooch features 132 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.00 carats, and 48 baguette diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, G/H/I color, VS clarity. With signed Cartier box.
An important French Retro, 18-karat rose gold bangle bracelet with diamonds, rubies, and rose quartz, by Verger Frères. The hinged bangle bracelet is designed with terminals of rose quartz sphere clusters, each set with circular-cut rubies, approximate total weight 1.65 carats, flanked by old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats, further highlighted by calibré-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1 carat. The Verger workshop was a successful, behind-the-scenes force creating jewels for Boucheron, Cartier, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Unlike those of many manufacturing jewelers, who merely produced work to order, Verger''s own original designs were particularly valued and sought after by these great Parisian Maison. Verger are known for their magnificent clocks featuring strongly defined shapes, stylized lines and global inspiration. For the Haute Joaillerie he created elaborate fancies of form and color contrast, as we see here in this important rose gold bracelet.
A very comprehensive set of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold cuff links with interchangeable hard stone bars (batons) by Cartier Paris. The cuff links'' connecting mounts consist of the following: 18 karat yellow gold polished mounts #6864463; 18 karat white gold polished mounts #672759; diamond-set 18 karat yellow gold mounts with 44 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.32 carats, #686073; ruby-set 18 karat yellow gold mounts with 48 round rubies with an approximate total weight of 1.92 carats #641343; 18 karat yellow gold polished mounts with blue enamel #663206; and 18 karat yellow gold polished mounts with green enamel #686049. The interchangeable batons consist of hematite, 18 karat yellow gold ribbed, 18 karat white gold ribbed, green chrysophrase, coral, amber, malachite, wood, rock crystal, 18 karat yellow polished gold, 18 karat white polished gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise and onyx. With original Cartier signed fitted epi leather boxes and travel boxes. "Classic motifs--the button, the baton, the coin appeal to designers of every era because of their proportions, simplicity, and ease of use." Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson in Cuff Links. Discussed and similar pictured in Cuff Links, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Harry N. Abrams, Inc. Publishers, New York, 1991, page 91-92. Circa 1960''s. Signed, "Cartier" "016598" French control marks.
A French Mid-20th Century 18kt gold and platinum necklace with diamonds by Cartier. The necklace has 148 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity. The necklace is designed in a foliate fringe motif with diamond set platinum articulated ''leaves''. With signed Cartier box.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds and turquoise by Cartier. The asymmetrical bombé form centers 46 cabochon turquoises edged by gadrooned gold wiretwist and round brilliant-cut diamond shoulders pavé-set with 52 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.70 carats, completed by a ribbed shank. Circa 1956.A similar ring set with faceted sapphires is pictured in Amazing Cartier, Jewelry Design Since 1937, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion Publishers, 2008, page 165.Often worn two or three to a hand, these bold, luxurious and colorful "cocktail" rings were the perfect expression of women''s post-World War II war social and expressive freedom. Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, the eternally stylish creative director, Cartier produced a variety of these at once playful and sensual jewels.
An English Mid-20th Century flower-shaped 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier London. The brooch has 4 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of .28 carat. The flower is composed of deeply engraved overlapping leaves leading to the diamond flowers. From the iconic Cartier ''Coffee Bean'' Collection.
A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Coffee Bean" earrings by Cartier. Each highly three dimensional earring is composed of ribbed coffee bean motifs arranged in a stylized floral form. With a signed Cartier Box. Cartier first presented this design in the 1930s as an homage to Paris'' fabulous café culture, beloved of its famous artists, writers and philosophers. Coffee bean brooches, necklaces watches and earclips were popular on both sides of the Atlantic well into the 1950s.
A Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum ring with diamonds by Cartier. The polished yellow gold ring has 35 platinum set round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.50 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. Innovative design is a Cartier trademark. This ring has a diamond step motif on one side and a gold fan motif on the other, creating an illusion of two entirely different rings depending upon the perspective of the viewer. With signed Cartier box.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and emerald sautoir necklace with pendant, by Henri Picq. The chain composed of stepped, arched bombé links joined by twisted bars, highlighted by calibré-cut emeralds, suspending a shaped pendant of conforming design, with millegrain accents. The necklace centers on an emerald-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, and baguette, old European-cut and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 40.00 carats, H/I color, VS. The pendant has 2 emerald-cut emeralds and 44 calibré-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 7.70 carats. The pendant is detachable from the twisted design and barrel-shaped links of the necklace. Henri Picq established his jewel workshop in the Marais in 1888, and his superb, exacting work soon caught the attention of the great Parisian jewelers. From 1900 until the late 1920s, Picq manufactured for Cartier, as well as for legendary firms such as La Cloche Frères and Ostertag. According to the jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the last writer to have unfettered access to the Cartier Archives, Picq was instrumental in developing the platinum for which Cartier became famous, a particular alloy "said to be the best in Paris" which created a "white, shimmering surface" and whose constituents were kept secret from the rest of the trade. Cartier entrusted Picq to work with unu
sual materials and to execute exceptional designs, resulting in some of the firm''s most complex and acclaimed creations. The Picq workshop manufactured the celebrated blackened steel kokoschnik tiara of 1913, modeled on a royal . Cartier also commissioned them to create the enduringly beloved "tutti frutti" jewels of carved colored gems, inspired by the firm''s collaboration with expatriate members of the Indian aristocracy who were among their most devoted patrons. They were manufacturers of the opulent long sautoirs with multiple transformations, such as this example, so popular in the late 1920s. This unsigned period jewel bears Picq''s distinctive French maker''s mark, and represents work of the same exacting standards so prized by their famous clients.Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum ring with emerald and diamonds by Cartier. The ring centers on a round-cut emerald with an approximate weight of 3.62 carats, and 30 round and baguette cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.75 carats. The emerald is certified by the SSEF Laboratory, Certificate #58514 stating the emerald is of Colombian origin, moderate traditional oil treatment. Ring size 6; this ring can be sized.
A French Retro 18 karat pink gold- and platinum-covered watch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier Paris. The cover of the watch has 14 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carat, and 3 calibre-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carat. The watch has a flexible box-link bracelet. The movement is by Jaeger Le Coultre. With signed Cartier box.
An 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds by Cartier. The flexible woven gold bracelet has 104 round diamonds set in platinum with an approximate total weight of 7.00 carats, F/G color, VS clarity. With signed Cartier box.
An Art Deco platinum bar brooch with diamonds and rubies by Cartier. The brooch centers on an old European-cut diamond that weighs just under 1.00 carat, 60 old European-cut diamonds that weigh approximately 2.80 carats. and 4 rectangular-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .72 carat.
A Mid-20th Century 14 karat polished gold "Sputnik" brooch by Cartier. This dimensional brooch was designed shortly after the Soviet Union launched their first satellite in 1957. It is covered in "antennae." The creation of the brooch is an example of Cartier''s use of "pop culture, art and design interpret[ing] the tension caused by the launch of the Soviet satellite." (Sotheby''s, Magnificent Jewels, December 2012)
A pair of French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold earrings with pearls and diamonds by Cartier. The earrings each center on an 8 mm Japanese cultured pearl, surrounded by a total of 74 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.5 carats.
An English Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with diamonds by Cartier. The bracelet is comprised of textured gold links and diamond-encrusted raised platinum joints. The piece has a total of 126 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.20 carats. With original Cartier box.
A French Retro 18 karat yellow gold and platinum ring with diamonds and rubies by Cartier. The ring has 14 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .56 carats, and 3 rectangular-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of .21 carats.
A modern 18 karat white gold Or Amour Et Trinity ring by Cartier. Unlike with the classic Trinity design, the Or Amour Et Trinity ring has bands of graduating size and features the eponymous text on one of the bands.
A French 18 karat gold "Three-band" ring with diamonds and rubies by Cartier, Paris. The ring is designed as three fused bands pavé-set with 140 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.25 carats, centering an asymmetrical line of oblong cabochon rubies of superb color weighing approximately 4.00 total carats.
A two-tone bracelet in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold with charms by Cartier. The bracelet has five charms, a sapphire and diamond horseshoe, a diamond accented wrench, a pair of fully-articulated scissors, a house with emerald and sapphire accents and an affixed carved ruby tree, and a sapphire and emerald charm in a decorative motif. Collectively, the piece contains blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of .40 carat, emeralds with a total weight of .10 carat, a ruby with an approximate total weight of .6 carat and diamonds with a total weight of 0.75 carat.
A French Mid-20th Century platinum brooch with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds by Cartier Paris. The brooch has pavé round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.30 carats, a cabochon sapphire with an approximate weight of 4.70 carats, 44 cabochon sapphires with an approximate total weight of .88 carat, and 2 cabochon emerald eyes. Signed Cartier box. "In 1914 Louis Cartier commissioned French painter George Barbier to draw a lady with jewels and a panther. The artwork was later used in advertising, and Cartier was inextricably linked with the symbol of this animal. Louis Cartier was the pioneer in taming the legendary creature and his associate Jeanne Toussaint went on to make magnificent use of the icon. The panther has since inspired timeless and elegant collections of jewelry and timepieces that show the multiple facets of the animal that can be at times bold, regal or sensual." -- Amazing Cartier, by Nadine Coleno, Flammarion, 2008, p. 72
A French 18 karat gold flower brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The brooch is composed of highly textured carved foliate motifs and has 14 round-cut diamonds serving as an attractive center to the bloom. The stones have an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats. Provenance: From the collection of Margaretta Fitler Murphy "Happy" Rockefeller
A pair of French 18 karat gold earrings by Cartier. Each bloom-shaped earring is comprised of heart-shaped mother of pearl petals, accented by gold frames, and centering on a beautifully-textured internal bloom of gold.
A French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and emeralds by Marchak. The leaves of this ring are framed with 81 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.10 carats with a VS clarity and G/H color grade. The leaves center on 4 oval cabochon emeralds with an approximate total weight of 20.20 carats. Ring size 6-1/2. With original drawing. Born in 1854 in a poverty-stricken area of Kiev, Joseph Marchak sold his own clothing at age 10 to pay the fees associated with becoming a jeweler''s apprentice. Fourteen years after beginning that apprenticeship, Marchak used the dowry from his young bride to open his own small shop in the neighborhood in which he was born. Within a year, he had upgraded to a full maison on the Kreshchatyk, Kiev''s main street of luxury retail. Marchak quickly drew the attention of Tsar Nicholas II, who traveled to Kiev to have Marchak design gifts to be given to his family celebrating the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. Seemingly overnight, Marchak had become the most highly sought-after and highly celebrated luxury maker in Russia, easily rivaling even Fabergé. But Marchak was also widely recognized abroad, winning a prestigious medal at the World''s Fair in Chicago in 1893, and another in Antwerp in 1894. Dubbed the "Cartier of Kiev," Marchak, his family and his workshop fled Russia at the outset of World War I and
landed in Paris, where they established another successful workshop and storefront on the Rue de la Paix. The Marchak family continued to make exquisite and highly stylized treasure that defied commonplace trends well through the mid 20th Century.
A French 1950''s 18 karat gold brooch with diamonds by Cartier. The highly stylized brooch appears to be caught in motion, as a bouquet of gold ribs makes an elegant, diamond-crowned arc before looping back upon itself, ultimately fanning out as it stretches downward, allowing for the significant diamond accents at the bottom of the brooch to each be displayed in full. The brooch has 23 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.40 carats. French Control Marks, Makers Mark.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and enamel jabot pin designed in a floral motif with flowers at each end, set with 100 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.90 carats, and black enamel forming the two flowers. This type of brooch, usually long and vertically shaped, consists of a single central pin with two decorative ornaments at either end. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable, allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment. When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric.In the 1920''s and 1930''s, Cartier was famed for its jeweled jabots, which it called cliquet pins or brooches (named for the "click" made when the detachable ornament is snapped on to the pin). Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
An English, Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold brooch with citrine stones by Cartier London. The brooch has 8 pear-cut citrines with an approximate total weight of 20.00 carats, 8 round-cut citrines with an approximate total weight of 4.00 carats, and 1 round-cut center citrine with an approximate total weight of 6.75 carats. Total approximate weight of the brooch is 30.75 carats. The brooch is designed in a stylized, bursting chrysanthemum motif.
An 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond Retro bangle bracelet by Cartier. The central motif of foliate design, surrounds a European-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.50 carats. It can be worn as a brooch or hinged on the bracelet. Some of the petals are pavé-set with diamonds while others are highlighted by baguette diamonds. Mounted in 18 karat yellow gold. The brooch signed Cartier London, J.C. and numbered 9874, the bangle signed J.C. and numbered 9874. The piece has 200 diamonds with an approximate total weight of 19.20 carats; the center diamond being 2.50 carats in approximate total weight. A similar bracelet is pictured in "Amazing Cartier" by Nadine Coleno, page 107.
A French Retro 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond clip brooch, Monture Cartier. The brooch is designed as a stylized ropetwist floral spray with diamond blossoms and gold leaves, highlighted by 21 Old European-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, approximate total weight 5.00 carats, suspending a ropetwist tassel with acorn pendant. The diamonds have a VS/SI clarity and H/I color grade. Mounted in 18 karat gold and platinum. The clip brooch was manufactured by the Cartier workshop Dubois, who produced some of the most remarkable pieces of "tutti fruitI" and other Indian inspired jewelry for the firm.
A French Late 20th Century 18 karat gold convertible necklaces/ long chain, by Soubrenie et Bois, Paris, composed of freely shaped navette form links highlighted by round briliiant-cut diamonds, joined by shaped trace link chain, separable to form nesting necklaces. The necklace has 60 brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.00 carats.The firm of workmasters Soubrenie et Bois manufactured for such high style Parisian makers as Cartier, Boucheron and Fred.
Signed: Soubrenie et Bois (maker''s marks), with French control marks.
A French late Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds and aquamarine by Cartier Paris. The brooch has 80 round, square and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 5.90 carats, centering on a hexangular aquamarine with an approximate total weight of 35.20 carats.
A French 18 karat gold ring with diamonds and lapis lazuli by Cartier. The sizable ring features a flat oblong crown, diagonally split between a sold piece of lapis lazuli and pavé-set diamonds. The ring has 18 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.65 carats. They are G/H color and VS clarity grade.
A French mid-20th century 18 karat gold bangle with lapis lazuli and diamonds by Cartier, Paris. The bracelet is composed of 13 melon-carved lapis beads completed by a scroll and arch design platinum-topped 18 karat gold and clasp, highlighted by 23 round brilliant-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carat. This bold and playful bangle''s chunky lapis beads, subtly gleaming with golden pyrite, are pleasantly offset off by its sparkling abstract-form diamond clasp, cleverly designed to be put on and taken off with a minimum of fuss. Carved bead bracelets of coral and hardstones were a personal favorite of Jeanne Toussaint, the artistic director of Cartier Paris for half of the 20th century and one of the era''s great tastemakers.
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