An Edwardian 18 karat gold and platinum dress set with moonstones and diamonds. The set has 7 cabochon moonstones with an approximate total weight of 4.10 carats and 86 rose-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .45 carat. The classically-designed cluster cuff links are double-sided with clasped chain connections. The 3 cluster dress studs have gold folding wing backs. Similar pictured in Cuff Links, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Harry N. Abrams, 1991, page 50 (similar).
|Dimensions: Cuff Links: 3/8" diameter; Dress Studs: 1/4" diameter|
|Item #: CS-16563|
|Price: $7,500 – Call: (212) 644-6400|
A charming 18 karat gold chain featuring six heart-shaped, diamond-studded dangling charms with a matching pair of two-tiered diamond and gold heart shaped earrings. Each heart in this traditionally sentimental late Victorian suite is studded with approximate total weigh of 2.20 carats of old European-cut diamonds adding substantial sparkle to the already brilliant polished gold. The highly sentimental nature of Victorian jewelry is due in large part to the great love affair between Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The young Queen and her Prince were among the 19th Century's most celebrated icons of fashion, and they openly celebrated their very doting relationship by giving each other jewelry with snakes or hearts, symbols of eternal love. Although lockets with compartments designed to hold human hair are most often associated with mourning jewelry, they were also, as this necklace and earring suite most probably were, presented as tokens of love.
|Dimensions: Necklace: 16'' long; earring 1-1/4" long|
|Item #: STE-19211|
|Price: $29,500 – Call: (212) 644-6400|
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women's war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogue, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
|Artist: John Rubel|
|Dimensions: Brooch: 2-73/4" diameter; earrings 1" diameter|
|Item #: ST-19327|
|Price: $32,000 – Call: (212) 644-6400|
A French Art Nouveau gilt bronze sculpture by Agathon Léonard. This sculpture, from the series Le jeu de l'écharpe, is a rare model featuring a woman with tambourines. The sculptor Agathon Léonard was born in Lille in 1841 as Van Weydvelt, but adopted a pseudonym for his professional life as a sculptor. He studied first under De La Planche and ultimately was elected to the Lille Académie de Beaux-Arts. In 1889, he received the Silver medal at the Exposition Universelle, and in 1900, he received the gold medal. This sealed his reputation within the art establishment, and he was named a Chevalier of the Légion d'Honneur in that year. Léonard's le jeu d'écharpe, originally conceived as a porcelain group and executed by Sèvres, WAS first exhibited at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. The series of fifteen figures consisted of fourteen female figures presented in a dance around a central figure, on bases of three differing heights. The edition sold out at the Exposition, and was so popular that it was reproduced in various editions, and ultimately issued in gilt bronze in conjunction with the Parisian foundry Susse Frères. The dancers of the jeu de l'écharpe series are noted for their elegance, and their exquisite balance between classical form and Art Nouveau taste. There are several full sets in existence, one of the most important being the one presented to Emperor Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra Feodorovna by the French Republic during their state visit to France in September of 1901. Kept in the private apartments of the Empress at the Winter Palace, the suite is now in the Hermitage Museum. In addition, works by Léonard are in the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Art Institute of Chicago, and the Musée de Nantes, among others. A similar sculpture is pictured in: Agathon Léonard: Le geste Art Nouveau, by Ingelore Böstge, Paris: Somogy editions d'art, 2003, p. 70, cat. no. 55.
|Artist: Agathon Léonard|
|Signed: A Leonard Sclp', stamped with Susse Freres Paris foundry seal and 'M|
|Dimensions: 18'' high x 8-1/2'' wide x 11'' deep|
|Item #: B-19324|
|Price: $50,000 – Call: (212) 644-6400|