An Art Deco platinum necklace with emeralds, diamonds and enamel. The necklace has five fluted emerald beads with an approximate total weight of 19.00 carats, accented with 124 baguettes, 10 triangular and 302 round old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 11.10 carats, G/H/I color, VS clarity. Each graduated emeraldbead is flanked by black enamel accents, with the back chain set in an Art Deco baguette and round diamond motif.
An English Antique 15 karat gold and silver necklace with fourteen emerald and diamond clusters. The necklace has 14 antique-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 20.50 carats, including the center emerald with an approximate weight of 2.50 carats. The emeralds are surrounded by 140 old mine-cut diamonds, including diamond spacers joining the clusters with an approximate total weight of 24.00 carats. With signed, fitted antique box.
A French Art Deco platinum, diamond and emerald sautoir necklace with pendant, by Henri Picq. The chain composed of stepped, arched bombé links joined by twisted bars, highlighted by calibré-cut emeralds, suspending a shaped pendant of conforming design, with millegrain accents. The necklace centers on an emerald-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of 2.50 carats, and baguette, old European-cut and single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 40.00 carats, H/I color, VS. The pendant has 2 emerald-cut emeralds and 44 calibré-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 7.70 carats. The pendant is detachable from the twisted design and barrel-shaped links of the necklace. Henri Picq established his jewel workshop in the Marais in 1888, and his superb, exacting work soon caught the attention of the great Parisian jewelers. From 1900 until the late 1920s, Picq manufactured for Cartier, as well as for legendary firms such as La Cloche Frères and Ostertag. According to the jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the last writer to have unfettered access to the Cartier Archives, Picq was instrumental in developing the platinum for which Cartier became famous, a particular alloy "said to be the best in Paris" which created a "white, shimmering surface" and whose constituents were kept secret from the rest of the trade. Cartier entrusted Picq to work with unu
sual materials and to execute exceptional designs, resulting in some of the firm''s most complex and acclaimed creations. The Picq workshop manufactured the celebrated blackened steel kokoschnik tiara of 1913, modeled on a royal . Cartier also commissioned them to create the enduringly beloved "tutti frutti" jewels of carved colored gems, inspired by the firm''s collaboration with expatriate members of the Indian aristocracy who were among their most devoted patrons. They were manufacturers of the opulent long sautoirs with multiple transformations, such as this example, so popular in the late 1920s. This unsigned period jewel bears Picq''s distinctive French maker''s mark, and represents work of the same exacting standards so prized by their famous clients.Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Modernist platinum dress clip by famed designer Suzanne Belperron that can also be worn on a necklace with nesting rows of blue chalcedony beads. Similar in style and spirit to the necklace worn by the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. The clip is carved blue chalcedony in a half-barrel design, set with 1 cushion-cut, one oval, 2 rectangular-cut and two square-cut sapphires, 10 square-cut rubies, 1 rectangular-cut ruby and 8 square-cut emeralds. Measuring 3.9 cm long by 3.4 cm wide, weighing 39.3 grams. French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker''s marks for Société Groëné et Darde. By the remarkable female designer Suzanne Belperron. Accompanying certificate reads: We do hereby certify that the piece pictured below was manufactured in Paris between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz from a design by Suzanne Belperron. Chalcedony beads included: 17 inches in length, detachable.
An English Victorian 18 karat gold acrostic necklace. The heart charms consist of 161 rose-cut diamonds that have the approximate total weight of 3.20 carats. The center of these charms have 2 emeralds, with amethyst, ruby, sapphire and topaz that have the approximate total weight of .90 carat. Acrostic jewelry, which was immensely popular in the highly sentimental Victorian era, was actually originally introduced to the popular market by the famed French house of Mellerio, who created acrostic jewels for Marie Antoinette. A piece of acrostic jewelry is a piece that includes a series of center stones whose first letter of their common names spells out a word of affection. For example, this necklace, whose charms feature center stones of Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald (again), Sapphire and Topaz in that order is meant to say "DEAREST." Each of the heart-shaped charms in this particular piece features not only the meaning-filled center stone but also several carats worth of rose-cut diamonds, that encrust their faces.
Dimensions: Necklace 15" length; each charm 1/2" x 1/2".
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