An Art Deco platinum and gold brooch with diamonds, ruby, emerald and lapis lazuli by Kohn. The brooch has 38 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.20 carats, with ruby and emerald accents. The base of the jardiniere is formed of a single piece of lapis lazuli banded with red and black enamel. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A late Edwardian platinum brooch with diamonds and onyx. The brooch has milgrain-set old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 6.50 carats, H/I color grade, VS clarity, with baguette-cut onyx accents. The brooch is designed as a poppy blossom with articulated diamond-set knife-edge bars. With detachable brooch fitting.
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold brooch with sapphires and diamonds by Mauboussin. The brooch has 34 round sapphires with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 54 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats. The butterfly brooch is composed in a high three dimensional motif with open-work gold wings.
An American Art Deco platinum brooch with diamonds by E. M. Gattle & Co.. The brooch has 168 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats, and 5 square-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .75 carat. The total approximate diamond weight of the brooch is 5.25 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. The brooch centers on a dimensional jardinière flanked by pierced foliate elements with a milgrain set diamond border. E.M. Gattle Co. was founded by Emanuel Gattle in the latter part of the 19th century. Originally, E.M. Gattle & Co. was located on Broadway in the theatre district. In 1907, the company moved to the corner of 38th Street and Fifth Avenue and, later, to 55th Street and Fifth Avenue, next to the St. Regis Hotel. One of their notable customers was Enrico Caruso, who shopped Gattle stores for jewelry. However, he was not only a shopper of Gattle, he also allowed his name and photograph to be used in Gattle advertising. Gattle became successful until the time they closed their doors. The firm closed in 1940, a year before the outbreak of World War II. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018.
A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, ''Paris Arnold Ostertag''. The firm of Ostertag, founded in the 1920''s by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme, near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d''art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles. Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostert
ag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin, that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag''s objets d''art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art. In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d''art at the Musée Galliera. Ostertag''s Paris shop continued until late 1939, when he left for America, where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz. At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
An Art Deco platinum and diamond double clip brooch designed in a stylized ribbon motif centering on two kite-shaped diamonds with an approximate total weight of .90 carat, surrounded by 170 old European-cut diamonds and 66 baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 7.50 carats, H/I color, VS clarity. The brooch has a removable pin back which separates the clips.
A French Art Deco 18 karat gold, multi colored raised enamel "Peacock" cigarette case with concealed integrated latch button and hinge by Alfred Langlois. Alfred Langlois was among Van Cleef & Arpels most talented boîtiers, or box makers. Beginning in 1927, Langlois produced "highly sophisticated enamel decoration in Chinese taste and... Persian carpet-like design, along with a nécessaire of more abstract Deco design with carpet-like rectangles and diamond ice pyramids, predominantly in enamel", Sarah Coffin, in Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels. The original drawing for the case exists in the Van Cleef & Arpels archives in Paris. Discussed and similar pictured in The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 24 (discussion), 152 (photograph).
A French Art Deco platinum and enamel brooch with diamonds and rubies. The brooch has 306 round diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.75 carats, and 2 cabochon ruby accents. This dimensional brooch representing a dove, the symbol of peace and love, is of special significance, as it was produced as France and the European continent were heading towards war.
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