A French Retro 18 karat gold and platinum bracelet with emeralds and diamonds attributed to Rubel Frères. The bracelet has 64 square-cut emeralds with an approximate total weight of 8.30 carats, and 32 old European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 0.95 carat. The flexible bracelet is designed in a step motif.
An American mid-20th century 18 karat Retro gold brooch and earrings suite with rubies, diamonds and turquoise by John Rubel. The brooch is an openwork bloom comprised of large gold loops studded with accenting rubies that expertly play with the negative space. Three raised clusters of turquoise and ruby, each centering on a diamond, make up the center of the bloom, while matching clusters make up the earrings. The brooch has 88 round-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 5.85 carats, 3 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .95 carat, and 69 cabochon turquoise. The earrings have 10 round rubies that have the approximate total weight of 1.60 carats and 5 round diamonds with the approximate total weight of .60 carat. With original box. The Retro jewelry period took place directly before and during World War II. As a reaction to the dire world conflict, jewelry became bolder, brighter, and more light-hearted. Unlike the Art Deco style, Retro jewelry has soft curves and feminine motifs, set off against the severe silhouettes of women''s war-time wardrobes. Gold regained popularity, as platinum was essential to the war effort and scarcely available for commercial use. Different colors of gold, such as yellow, rose, and green, were used in striking combinations. Popular gemstones including non-traditional stones, such as turquoise, were suddenly in vogu
e, and were used widely, as they are beautifully employed in this suite. Patriotic themes were also popular, and blue stones and rubies were often paired together with diamonds and open work to convey a message of patriotism. Three-dimensional sculptural ribbons, bows, and folds made out of metal were common, as they conveyed a sense of victory and celebration that all were hoping for.
A pair of American Retro 18 karat gold and platinum earrings with diamonds and tourmalines by John Rubel. The abstract leaf form earrings are set with 2 rectangular-cut green tourmalines with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, The curling fronds are further accented by 26 single-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of .78 carats. Famous for their superb ballerina and dancer brooches, the firm of John Rubel had a long history of collaborating with Van Cleef & Arpels, both in Paris and New York. The two firms' shared designer, Maurice Duvalet, was a French artist who, according to Maurice Galle, "brought chic to everything he touched." These abstract floral earclips represent the Rubel brothers' love of all manner of flowers. As Penny Proddow noted in American Jewelry: Glamor and Tradition, "Even their simplest jewelry was sculptural."
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