A French Art Deco platinum double clip brooch with diamonds by Ostertag. The double clip brooch has 182 round and baguette-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 9.50 carats, G/H/I color, VS/SI clarity. Original bill of sale from M.S.Arnold Ostertag. The clips are designed in a stylized wing motif. Signed box, 'Paris Arnold Ostertag'. The firm of Ostertag was founded in the 1920's by Swiss-born, Arnold Ostertag (1883 – c.1940) is said to have created objects that rivaled the creations of the more celebrated houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron. The Ostertag Maison was located in Paris, at number 16 Place Vendôme near other important jewelry houses of the day.During the 1920s and 1930s, Ostertag was especially known for jewelry and objets d'art based on Asian and Indian designs. One style, known as Tutti Frutti, popular from the early 1920s to the late 1930s combined influences from Islamic religious architecture and so-called Hindu or Indian styles.Emeralds, carved rubies, and sapphires – often imported from worldwide locations – were interspersed with diamonds. The jewels were crafted into unique pieces using the highest known techniques of the day and arranged into flowers and leaves, studded with berries and fruit. Many of the creations were purchased by an elite clientele that ranged from empresses, kings, and dukes to celebrities.Ostertag was among the renowned Parisian jewelers, led by Cartier and Mauboussin that were invited to commission masterpieces in collaboration with other respected and well-known jewelry and timepiece houses of the day. Ostertag's objets d'art and decorative clocks made by the revered clockmaker, George Verger, are jeweled works of art.In 1929 Ostertag exhibited jewelry and objets d'Art at the Musee Galliera. Ostertag's Paris shop continued until late 1939 when he left for America where he died around 1940.His biographers, Proddow and Healy, write that Ostertag regularly visited America in years between World Wars I and II. They write that he would come to New York in mid-October, spend two months in Los Angeles, then visit Florida, and return to Paris via Cannes at Easter. After two months in Paris, he spent July in Deauville, August in the south of France, and September in Biarritz.At the onset of World War II, Maison Ostertag closed its doors forever. Discussed in Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1985.
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