Lucien Gautrait


The nature and artistic circumstances of Lucien Gautrait are mysterious. Little is known about Gautrait, and even records of his name are unreliable, ranging from the common ‘Lucien’ to some who referred to him as ‘Leopold’. The jewelry industry at the turn of the century was highly confusing, with no set regulations. It was hard to determine if the name attributed to a piece denotes designer or craftsman, manufacturer or retailer. Verver, a successful jeweler of the Art Nouveau period whom Gautrait was said to work for as well, refers to Gautrait as a ciseleur-modeleur and fidele collaborateur of the Parisian jeweler Leon Gariod.

The known pieces by Gautrait are mainly pendants and brooches and reveal him to have been an imitator of Lalique’s motifs. His compositions have a distinctive ornamental character and show a preference for swung contours into which functional pieces, such as loops and fastenings, are fitted. Gautrait was highly skilled at creating bird pieces, specifically peacocks, with lush, densely colored and glittering plumage made with enamel. The effect of finely chased gold and enamels is most obvious, while precious stones provide discreet accents. Work attributed to Gautrait is also notable for the finely sculpted female faces and exceptional luminous enamel work. Most of the pieces created at Leon Gariod’s firm bear not only his signature ‘L. Gautrait’, but also the company stamp of Leon Gariod showing the monogram ‘LG’ separated by a horn-like symbol in a vertical lozenge (registered 1884).

Aside from the scattering of pieces that can be positively attributed to Gautrait, little else is known about the man or his work. Contemporary exhibition catalogues, salon reports and articles in specialist periodicals provide scant clues to supplement the information gleaned from his pieces.

Related items:

Lucien Gautrait French Art Nouveau Gold Pendant with Sapphire, Diamonds and Pearl
Gautrait — PT-16445
Lucien Gautrait and Leon Gariod French Art Nouveau Diamond Enamel Platinum and Gold Bracelet
Leon Gariod and Lucien Gautrait — BA-18790



"Fiorella" Earrings by Neha Dani Featured in ...

Our very own Neha Dani "Foirella" Earrings have been featured in Harpers Bazaar. Here is the excerpt from the article: A "Closer home, we have Coimbatore-born Neha Dani, who sells her unique pieces  More>>

Paris 1900: City of Entertainment

March 1, 2019–May 12, 2019 a Ticketed. Free for Cincinnati Art Museum members. a Experience the splendor of Paris at the turn of the twentieth century. a Organized by the Petit Palais Museum of  More>>


Join our Newsletter

©2019 Macklowe Gallery. All Rights Reserved.
Visit us at:  445 Park Avenue New York, New York 10022 — 212-644-6400
We are committed to making this website available to as many people as possible and is engaged in continued efforts to ensure that this website is accessible to those with special needs, including those with visual, hearing, cognitive and motor impairments. Our efforts in that regard are ongoing. Many internet users can find websites difficult to use. We recognize that this is an important issue, and we are working to ensure that this website is accessible to all persons who wish to use it. Our efforts to improve this website in this regard are in process, so if you come across a page or feature you find inaccessible or difficult to use, please send your feedback to